Saturday 6/08/2005 Sligachan Hotel – Allt Dearg Mor – Allt Dearg Beag – Coire Riabhach – Sgùrr nan Gillean (954m)
Isle of Skye, SCOTLAND
Participants: Peter Davies, Stephen Davies (Photos, Report)
In August 2005, I set out with my brother Peter to tackle Sgùrr nan Gillean on the Isle of Skye—a peak whose reputation for drama and challenge absolutely lived up to the stories. We started from the Sligachan Hotel, boots becoming damp soon after we left the car park, as the heather and moorland soaked up morning drizzle. Even from a distance, Sgùrr nan Gillean towered above us, its pinnacled ridge looking impossibly sharp and untamed.
Max elevation: 944 m
Total climbing: 990 m
Total descent: -990 m
Average speed: nan km/h
The first stretch was easy-going, weaving through scattered stones and boggy patches. But as we approached the foot of the mountain, the gentle path steepened rapidly. We paused by the tumbling Allt Dearg Beag burns to catch our breath, the sound of water mingling with a cold breeze and our own nervous anticipation.
Climbing higher, the route quickly became a hands-on scramble up the southeast ridge—the so-called “tourist route,” though there’s nothing casual about it. Mist clung stubbornly to the upper slopes, hiding the summit and surrounding Cuillin teeth. Rock faces dripped with moisture from earlier rain, so our progress was steady and deliberate, testing every foothold before committing.
Peter
Reaching the exposed ridgeline, I felt the wind pick up, and suddenly the spectacular expanse of Skye, the Cullins, and the far-off Hebrides would swim into view—then disappear again as clouds rolled in. There were moments, especially on the scrambly, narrow sections, when I could feel the drop on either side and my heart thumped with a mix of excitement and caution.
Near the top, the world narrowed to a sharp crest barely a foot wide in places—just as trip reports I’d read described. Sometimes we’d straddle the ridge, inching forward, always focused, sometimes laughing nervously about the exposure. The last push to the summit cairn was a series of cautious moves, followed by relief and exhilaration. Bar two locals in full climbing gear and a few midges, we were alone among the swirling clouds on a surprisingly still summit, the buzz of effort replaced by a profound sense of achievement.
The precarious descent, which had us stretching into thin air for footholds, was just as testing, especially for tired legs, and the knowledge that a single slip could mean disaster kept our attention sharp. Arriving at Sligachan at last, tired but elated, we relished a celebratory drink—replaying every highlight and nervous moment from the day. Sgùrr nan Gillean had lived up to its mystique: a place where challenge, companionship, and awe all meet in the wind and stone of Skye’s most legendary peak.
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna and history. (Perplexity AI Model)
Landscape Features
The area encompassing Loch Brittle, Glen Brittle, Allt a’ Mhullinn, Loch an Fhir-bhallaich, Coire Lagan, the Great Stone Chute, and Sgùrr Alasdair (993 metres) on the Isle of Skye is noted for its rugged and dramatic landscape. Loch Brittle is a wide sea loch, opening to the south-west, with a grey sandy beach, exposed rocky outcrops, and steep headlands. Glen Brittle is a broad glacial valley bordered to the east by the Black Cuillin range, with many streams descending via waterfalls into the glen. The Allt a’ Mhullinn stream and Loch an Fhir-bhallaich lead uphill through moorland and woodland pockets, ultimately entering the glacially-formed Coire Lagan, an enclosed amphitheatre ringed by high cliffs and scree slopes. The Great Stone Chute, a steep and unstable scree gully, offers the standard pedestrian route from Coire Lagan to the summit of Sgùrr Alasdair.
Geology
The geology of the Black Cuillin is dominated by gabbro, a coarse-grained igneous rock notable for its durability and high friction, favoured by climbers for its grippy surface. Sgùrr Alasdair, like the rest of the range, is primarily gabbro with bands of basalt and other volcanic products. This volcanic bedrock results from tertiary igneous intrusions, and over time, glacial activity and severe weathering have carved out steep corries and sharp ridges, creating the jagged profile that defines the region.
Scenic Highlights
Key scenic highlights include the panoramic views from Glen Brittle beach towards the Hebrides; the blue-green lochan of Coire Lagan nestled below the cliffs; and the breathtaking vistas from the summit of Sgùrr Alasdair, the highest point on Skye. On clear days, these vantage points offer panoramic views over the Atlantic and the Inner Hebrides, while passing mist adds a sense of transience and drama to the mountain scenery.
Flora
The local flora varies with altitude and substrate. Lower elevations around Glen Brittle and Loch Brittle support coastal grasslands interspersed with heather, bracken, and some native woodland—chiefly birch and rowan. On the higher, thinner soils and scree of the Cuillin slopes, vegetation is dominated by tough grasses, mosses, lichens, and alpine species able to withstand exposure, such as saxifrage and mountain sorrel.
Fauna
Faunal diversity is notable, particularly among birds and mammals. Glen Brittle supports populations of red deer, rabbits, otters, and foxes. The coastal areas attract seals, porpoises, and on rare occasions, basking sharks. Avifauna includes golden eagles, ravens, oystercatchers, curlews, ringed plovers, swallows and grey heron. The upper slopes and cliffs also provide habitat for specialised insect and plant life adapted to the harsh conditions.
Indigenous History
The traditional custodians of the Isle of Skye are the Picts, who inhabited the region during the Iron Age circa 500 BCE. Their presence is evidenced by archaeological sites, including brochs and defensive structures throughout the island. Skye forms part of the wider lands of the Gaelic-speaking Scottish Highlands, with cultural heritage rooted in both Pictish and later Scottish Gaelic traditions.
White History
Norse settlement began in the 8th and 9th centuries CE, leaving a legacy of place names and cultural influence. From the medieval period, Skye was dominated by Highland clans, primarily Clan MacLeod and Clan MacDonald. The 18th and 19th centuries saw far-reaching social change, including the Jacobite uprisings and the Highland Clearances; Glen Brittle and its surrounds witnessed both clan conflict and the forced removal of residents, particularly during agricultural consolidation and emigration waves. In the 19th century, the MacAskill clan managed portions of Glen Brittle, and the area was ultimately depopulated due to amalgamation of small farms and clearances.
Today, this combination of geologic grandeur and layered human history forms the rich backdrop to the hiking experience on Sgùrr Alasdair and its approach via Glen Brittle and Coire Lagan.
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