Australian Alps Walking Track (SOBO – South Bound)
Section 7 (3 days): Days 35 – 37 to Food Drop 7
6/5/2025 – 8/05/2025 Omeo Highway – Falls Creek – Cope Hut
Distance: 49.1km Total Ascent: 2,583m Total Descent: 2,624m
Time: 20 hours Moving Time: 13 hours
Participants: Damien Aggio (Report), Stephen Davies (Report, Photos)
Day 35: Tuesday 6/05/2025 Mount Wills Hut – Mt Wills Track – Mount Wills – AAWT
Mount Wills Historic Area
Big River Saddle – Kangaroo Creek Track (intersection) – Big River Saddle Camp – Big River Road – The Long Spur – Long Spur Track – Madison Hut Site – T Spur Knob – Cleve Cole Hut
Bogong Remote and Natural Area
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Jaithmathang Country
Max elevation: 1777 m
Total climbing: 1119 m
Total descent: -1087 m
Average speed: 3.53 km/h
Total time: 07:52:33
With another long day ahead, we managed to get going by 9:00am. At first, heading down along the 4WD Mt Wills Track before departing the road for the AAWT. This was to take us down to Big River Road along a fairly slow, faint and irregularly marked track. The forest of tall trees was magnificent.
Mount Wills Hut
Once we got down onto Big River Road, the walking was easy on the good-quality gravel road. Departing from this onto Long Spur, we were concerned that we would be slowed by poor track quality, like we had encountered over the last few days. We were soon pleasantly surprised as it started as a vehicle twin-track and was relatively clear, and we could make a moderate pace. It did deteriorate somewhat along the latter half of Long Spur. The length of the spur is traversed over numerous bumps, which would accumulate to over 1,000m climb for the day. As the ascents repeatedly alternated with descents, it made for a change from yesterday’s long climbs.
AAWT track marker
The last part of the day had us walking through a more alpine environment. Fortunately, it took us above a dead tree forest section just as the winds were becoming strong. Watching those dead trees begin swaying strongly was of some concern before leaving the forest.
We arrived at Cleve Cole Hut about 5:00pm, just as the wind was becoming colder and stronger. Three local nurses were set up inside. There were also two tents pitched nearby. It seemed we were back onto more frequented paths for a while, although I must mention we again saw no one else out along the track throughout our eight hours of walking.
Damien on AAWT past AAWT- Big River Road – Long Spur Track junction
Damien
It was a big 22km day of going down for the first third, then up for two-thirds. The trail was good – single trail, fire trail, then single trail again. No water, so we had to carry 2L from the tank at Mt Willis Hut.
Cleve Cole was a busy hut with three other parties encamped there.
It is one of the best mountain huts with lights, running water and a gas stove – but only if a hut member is present to unlock all of these facilities. Unfortunately, no members were there, so we had to hike 100m for water and use our torches and candles in the hut.
I had a pleasant enough night in the tent outside the crowded hut. The wind was noisy but not interfering with the tent structure, and the tent was quite dry in the morning.
Cleve Cole Hut Logbook 4/4/2024 – 7/5/2025
Day 36: Wednesday 7/05/2025 Cleve Cole Hut (Bogong Remote and Natural Area) – Long Spur – T Spur – Big River – Big River Camp – Duane Spur – Ropers Hut
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1774 m
Total climbing: 823 m
Total descent: -882 m
Average speed: 3.12 km/h
Total time: 05:47:36
The cool, breezy, blue sky morning that greeted us had us plan to re-route across Mount Bogong and beyond after breakfast. Unplanned was the rapid pick up of wind speed and appearance of increasingly thick and lowering cloud cover. Breakfast was not long gone before we had decided that our time could be better spent below of clouds.
By our 10:10am departure, it was clear our decision to backtrack to the AAWT at Maddison Hut site was correct. As we walked that way through the alpine meadows, we were content with our choice. The low clouds didn’t look like they would be going anywhere soon.
Before long, we were onto T Spur, making the 700m descent to Big River. The track down T Spur was a little overgrown in places and had the usual frequent fallen tree or branches to get over and low shrubbery to push through. All the while, during our descent, the sky appeared to darken and the clouds got lower. Once down to the small campsite next to Big River, it was raining lightly. Nevertheless, we found a tiny bit of shelter under some small trees, donned our rain jackets and got stuck into lunch.
Damien on AAWT 500m before Big River Lower Crossing
It was boots off to cross Big River, although only calf deep; the water was cold, and the rocks were slippery. Fortunately, there is a chain provided for this crossing. This would be essential if the river level were much higher.
Duane Spur, on the other side of Big River, provided a 700m odd climb. The track up this spur seemed much more obvious than on T Spur, and also had fewer obstacles. Of concern as we got higher was the increase in wind speed, with lots of significant swaying of trees and branches. There were a few concerning squeaking and groaning noises from timber-on-timber rubbing. It proved to be just short of the elastic limit of all the trees.
I managed to get to within 1km of Ropers Hut before the showers recommenced, so I arrived slightly damp. I was pleased to find another hiker already there. Kyle had the pot belly on, so getting out of the cold and damp was great.
An hour or so later, another two people arrived. Katie was heading NOBO on the AAWT with her partner accompanying her for a couple of days. Kyle now opted to put his tent up and sleep outside, claiming to be a loud snorer.
Overnight, there was a lot of wind and rain, so we were pleased to be inside.
Cleve Cole Memorial Hut
Damien
A change of plans accompanied the change of weather at 9:30am, and we gave up the idea of going over the top of Mt Bogong. There was no point after the clouds shrouded the mountain top – we would not have seen any views. The wind was harsh and would have been in our faces the whole day, so we opted to go the opposite direction down T spur.
The trail for the day was clear enough, but the water crossing of Big River at the bottom of the valley was cold and involved getting the feet wet up to the calves. The rocks were uncomfortable and very slippery, but there was a chain dangling over the crossing to help steady yourself.
After lunch at the bottom, we got warm again with a long a very steep climb up to Ropers Hut.
We covered the 10km in 6 hours. It rained off and on throughout the day.
Ropers Hut is a nice place to sleep in. Well sealed (but not insulated), bright and with plenty of bench space.
The noise of the wind outside continued all through the night.
Ropers Hut Logbook 11/4/2025 – 8/5/2025
Day 37: Thursday 8/05/2025 Ropers Hut – AAWT – Big River Fire Trail – Warby Corner – Spion Kopje Track (intersection) – Mount Nelse North 1885m (Bogong Remote and Natural Area) – Nelse North Creek – Mount Nelse 1882m (Bogong Remote and Natural Area) – Heathy Spur – Marum Point Track (intersection) – The Park – Watchbed Creek – Bogong High Plains Road – Langford Gap West -Langford East Aqueduct Road (intersection) – Langford West Aqueduct Road – Langford West Aqueduct – Wallaces Hut (Bogong Remote and Natural Area) – Bogong Rover Chalet – Cope Hut Track – Cope Hut
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1873 m
Total climbing: 321 m
Total descent: -362 m
Average speed: 4.39 km/h
Total time: 06:01:47
The overnight rain had cleared, but by morning, there was a very cold wind blowing. For the first time in more than a week, we had blue skies, so the solar panels were put to work immediately.
Today was a particularly easy one, covering about 19km with only a 300m height gain and loss, almost flat! It was, after all, across the Bogong High Plains and along several aqueducts. The freezing cold wind didn’t let up until after lunch. Damien and I both had the same layers on that we would on a cold winter ski day.
Wallace Hut
Later in the afternoon, I pulled off the main track for a 500m detour to check out Wallaces Hut by myself. It looks very rustic from the outside, just as I had recalled from the previous time I had visited it in winter. This time I also looked inside. This proved a little disappointing. I think I would only consider sheltering there in the worst weather conditions, as it is very rough and dirty inside.
By the time I arrived at Cope Hut, Damien had already retrieved our food drops and made friends with Carl, who was also there for the night.
Damien
After a horrible, wet and windy night, we woke to a sunny but cold morning with a wicked apparent temperature due to a strong breeze.
An easier day was in store, so we didn’t hit the trail until 9:30am.
We stayed rugged up the whole day with our Goretex on. The pace was fast as the trails were clear, good and relatively flat. We covered the 18km in 4.5 hours.
Good phone reception (Telstra and Optus) was had within sight of Falls Creek.
A litre of water had to be carried for the first half of the day, but after that, we could drink straight from the Aqueduct.
Cope Hut Logbook 8/1/2025 – 9/5/2025
Amongst other photographically recorded observations during this walk, we were able to confirm sightings of each of the following species: Eastern Grey Kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), Brumbies (feral horses)
Food Drop 7 Expedition Log Equipment List
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Information on Parks signage along the way
Roper’s Hut – family connections
Jack Roper built a hut here, high on Duane Spur, in 1939. Other huts were destroyed that same year by wildfire, but Roper’s Hut survived.
It was well-built with a wooden frame and a “tin” roof. The snow: gum and mountain ash for the frame was cut on site, or nearby, and the galvanised iron for the roof and walls was packed-in by horse from Tawonga.
The hut continued to serve the Roper family and other graziers, while they worked their licence on the Bogong High Plains, until it was destroyed in the 2003 fires.
The Roper family has a long connection with the Victorian Alps starting around 1890 when Frederick Roper took cattle on to the High Plains.
His son, also named Fred, continued the tradition and the family still breeds and raises cattle in the area.
A hard life — far from the comforts of home The security of a well-made hut, with a warming fire in the hearth, would have made a welcome sight after a long day in the saddle mustering cattle.
Protecting Alpine Peatlands – the Deer Control Trial
Alpine peatlands are a special vegetation community of national and state significance. They are found only in small pockets in the high country of Victoria, New South Wales, the Australian Capital Territory and Tasmania.
Alpine peatlands, as the name suggests, are composed of peat, a type of soil made up of partially decomposed plant material. They form in waterlogged conditions over many hundreds of years.
They provide habitat and refuge for many plants and animals including some, like the Alpine Marsh Marigold, that are rare and threatened. They also play an important role in maintaining the healthy functioning of several water catchments.
Managing peatlands to build resilience
Alpine peatlands are a fragile community, highly sensitive to disturbance. Once damaged, they can be very slow to recover.
The Victorian Alpine Peatland Protection Program aims to reduce disturbance to peatlands to allow their condition to improve and to make them more resilient to future changes, as well as preserve them for the native plants and animals that rely on them.
An increasing problem
Over the past ten years a significant increase in the number of Sambar Deer and the area they occupy has been observed in Vicioria’s Alpine National Park, coinciding with increased impacts on alpine peatiands.
Deer, an introduced species
Sambor Deer are not native to Australia. They can reduce plant diversity through overgrazing and selective browsing. As hoofed animals, their trampling compacts soil and results in the creation of tracks and erosion. Male deer (stags) wallow in peatlands, destroying them and the habitat of the native plants and animals that rely on them.
What is being done?
Managing deer to protect alpine peatlands has ever been done before. Parks Victoria has recently begun a deer control trial to answer two key questions
1. What level of control is required to protect the peatlands?
2. Which control techniques are the most efficient and effective?
What does the trial involve?
The trial is being conducted at two sites in the Alpine National Park – the Bogong High Plains near Falls Creek and the Howitt-We ngton Plains north, being carried out;
1. Targeted different control nove as many deer as possible using several al control methods, including day stalking and night stalking using thermal imaging equipment, recreational hunters where recreation
Volunteers lending a hand
Targeted deer control is being carried out by Contractors, and volunteers from the Australian Deer Association’ (ADA) and the Sporting Shooters Assopiatión of Australia (SSAA), under the pervision of Parks Victoria staff.
Are peatlands recovering? Which methods are the best?
Before and after the trial, monitoring of deer abundance and density, and deer impacts on alpine peatlands will be undertaken jn all treatment areas to determine whether deer control is having the desired effect, To determine which techniques are the most efficient and effective, contractors and volunteers are collecting information to enable Parts Victoria to measure the effort required to rémove a deer using one technique and compare this to the effort required using another.
Learning by doing
At the conclusion of the trial the results and lessons learned will be used to provide future directions for ongoing deer control in the park.
For further information contact:
Parks Victoria 13 1969
The Alpine National Park Deer Control Trial is part of the Victorian Alpine Pertiaod Protection Program, This program is an intensive jointly funded through Parks Victoria, the West Gippsland Catchment Management Authority, the Au 1, Govemment’s National Ma North East West Gippsland and East Gippsland Picreent Management Authorities and the Victorian Government through the Alps Intensive Management Program.
Watchbed Creek – gateway to alpine landscapes
There are very few places on the Australian mainland where it is too high for trees to grow. Here in the Victorian high country, the alpine zone starts at around 1750m and extends up to the summit of Mt Bogong at 1986m.
All this makes the landscapes north of here part of a very exclusive and elite Australian club. The plants are mostly ground-hugging and reach no more than a metre in height.
Amongst them, however grow some of our most spectacular native flowers – Australia’s alpine flora.
Life in the Alpine Zone
Life is not easy for plants growing in alpine areas. At this level, where snow cover remains for 4 months of the year, the leaves of most plants are blocked from direct sunlight and thus unable to photosynthesise all year round.
The alpine zone is a mosaic of heathland, grassland, herbfield and wetlands, interspersed by bare protruding rock and rock pavements. The vegetation reflects drainage patterns of water and cold air and variations in the soils, topography and degree of exposure.
The plants here are mostly ground-hugging and reach no more than a metre in height. Soils are shallow and vary enormously. There are thin stony soils on peaks and ridges, loamy soils on gentle slopes and peats in the low-lying wetlands.
The growth and development of each of the plant communities in this harsh, unpredictable environment is slow.
While damage through events like fire, weed species, trampling and predation by insects and grazing animals may occur quickly, recovery can be a long time coming and ecosystems can often prove difficult to restore. Once the balance is tipped in favour of certain species over others, new patterns are established that may take decades to reverse – if ever.
Some of the alpine peaks that frame the high plains include Mt McKay (1850m) at the rear of Falls Creek and Mt Nelse (1882m) just 5km north from here.
To walk up to these peaks from the lower reaches of the plains is to cross into a special zone where extensive communities of tall alpine herbfield and tussock grasslands stand apart from the trees that accompany them at lower altitudes.
Alpine Herbfields and Wetlands
Alpine herbfield occurs on well-drained slopes and rolling hilltops in relatively sheltered sites. It avoids places that are exposed to strong winds or have waterlogged or stony soils.
The main plants found here are tussock grasses and small herbs growing together to form a continuous ground cover.
Along the valley bottoms downslope from the herbfields, you often find areas of alpine wetland.
This occurs in permanently wet sites that are generally spring-fed. Alpine wetland is dominated by hummock-forming sphagnum moss growing with sedges, rushes and wetland heaths.
These areas of wetland are of vital importance to the quality of local waterways as they act as sponges holding a long-term supply of water that is gradually fed into the river systems well after the snows have melted.
Watchbed Creek – gateway to Mt Nelse and beyond
This is your gateway to the wide open tops of the Bogong High Plains. Here you can explore the largest area of alpine grasslands in Victoria (120 square kilometres) and some of the most accessible high country in Australia.
Whether on foot, bicycle or skis, there’s something for all tastes.
The Big River Fire Track climbs through gnarled snow gums, up past the treeline to where it’s so cold only grasses and herbs can grow. Once on the rolling tops, a network of walking tracks, snow pole lines and multi-use trails branch out to the north, west and east.
You can send lust a tew hours. a whole. day or even a few days amongst the windswept summits, seeing fields of alpine wildflowers, historic cattlemens’ huts and vistas over the vast Australian Alps.
Mount Nelse walk
9 km: about 3-4 hours return
This popular walk goes to the top of Mount Nelse (1882 metres) for expansive vi across the mountains (in clear weather). It follows the Big River Fire Track up to rock-studded valley of Waterbed Creek, joins the AAWT, then crosses gentle plains to the broad dome of Mount Nelse. From a high saddle, a faint, unmarked path leads 500 metres east to the rock cairn on the summit. Return the same way.
historic huts
From the Big River Fire Track walk to Mount Nelse, other tracks and pole lines branch out to four historic mountain huts. Edmondson Hut and Johnston Hut lie just a kilometre off either side of the fire track. One or the other can easily be visited on your way back from Mount Nelse (allow one extra hour), Kelly Hut and Fitzgerald Hut lie about 3km (one hour) to the east along the Kelly Track.
High Country Grazing
Summer grazing began in the 1850s as a reliable source of summer feed
In the severe drought years of the early 1900s large numbers of sheep, cattle and horses were brought to the high plains for drought relief.
Cattlemen established a network of tracks, yards and huts across the high country.
Their annual cattle runs to and from the high plains became a feature of life for families in the surrounding valleys.
As bushwalkers and skiers explored the high country they met cattlemen and used the huts for shelter.
Many of the stories found their way into club journals and the yarns became legend
grazing memories
Billy Kelly – an Omeo resident from a 5th-generation cattlemen’s family – was 12 when she first joined her dad on a trip with the cattle in the mountains.
*What happens is you take them up and then they disperse around cause there’s no fences up there. One of the things we did when we went up there was to feed them salt cause there was a lack of salt in the grass. With the salting you were just up there for a couple of days and could just go up with two people, so a lot of the time it was just dad and me and that was really nice.
It’s adrenaline too of course – you’re focused on what you’ve got to do. You’ve got trees, obstacles, rocks, bogs – creeks you’ve got to get over – and you’ve got to be careful with the horse – cause the last thing you want to do is damage your horse – so you’ve got to concentrate on the task at hand – and then afterwards you go – “Oh wasn’t that good.”
Enduring the Elements
Handmade in 1889 from snow gum slabs and roofed with woollybutt shingles, Wallace Hut has survived the extremes of the Victorian high country.
With simple tools (most likely a broadaxe, crosscut saw and an adze), brothers Arthur, William and Stewart Wallace built the hut with timber found nearby.
The Wallace family grazed their cattle on the Bogong High Plains between 1869 and 1914.
Each year they would drive the stock up for four days to reach the summer feed.
The hut provided welcome shelter for the graziers after a long day in the saddle.
more about the hut
From the late 1920s to the mid 1940s Wallace Hut was used by employees of the State Electricity Commission while they built weather stations and made observations.
A new iron roof was added over the wooden shingles in the 1940s.
At this time, the Rover Scouts took over responsibility for the hut.
It became an important refuge and destination for walkers and skiers.
the power of water
The water channel is part of a network of aqueducts built to deliver extra water to Rocky Valley Dam.
The aqueduct catches water that would normally flow downhill into Middle Creek and away from the dam.
Rocky Valley Dam was constructed in the 1950s as part of the Kiewa Hydroelectric Scheme.
Water held in the dam is channelled through pipes to the McKay Creek Power Station on the western fall of the High Plains.
You won’t see much of the scheme as most of it is buried beneath the surface, where a network of connecting tunnels delivers water to underground power stations.
no place like home
People were few and far between in the Kiewa Valley prior to the construction of the hydroelectric scheme. By 1951 however, over 3400 workers – many of them migrants leaving Europe after World War IIwere resident here with their families. To house them, work on the construction of the Mount Beauty township commenced in 1946.
Conceived as a well-designed model town, it used prefabricated buildings imported from England.
The town became the first large township in the history of the
Upper Kiewa Valley.
The Odd Chalet Out
Today Rover Chalet appears a bit out of place, isolated from all the other lodges at Falls Creek. This is because it was built in 1940 before Falls Creek existed or the road to Rocky Valley Dam was constructed.
The Bogong High Plains Road paved the way for early ski resort development and made the challenge of reaching Rover Chalet easier.
Instead of trekking in from the Mitta Mitta valley or Mount Hotham, people could take the shorter route from the dam.
It also helped with renovations in 1953. A new kitchen was installed complete with a huge cast iron stove pushed overland on greased poles from the dam site.
Summer access became even easier in the mid-1960s when the road was extended east to connect with Omeo.
the hydro legacy
More dramatically than the dams and aqueducts, it was the roads of the
Kiewa Hydro Scheme that changed the face of the high plains.
These provided people with easy access to previously remote regions.
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)
Landscape Features
The AAWT between the Omeo Highway, Falls Creek, and Cope Hut traverses the heart of the Victorian High Country within the Alpine National Park. This section ascends from the lower foothills and river valleys near the Omeo Highway to the expansive alpine plateaus and rocky outcrops around Falls Creek and the Bogong High Plains, culminating at Cope Hut, a historic refuge at approximately 1,650 m above sea level.
The terrain is characterised by rolling grassy plains, open snow gum woodlands, and rugged granite peaks. Elevations range from about 1,000 m near the Omeo Highway to over 1,800 m on the high plains. The landscape is shaped by glacial and fluvial processes, resulting in broad valleys, moraines, and occasional tarns. The area is renowned for its panoramic vistas, sweeping grasslands, and the contrast between dense snow gum forests and open alpine meadows.
Geology
The geology of this region is dominated by ancient granitic rocks of the Lachlan Fold Belt, with some areas featuring metasedimentary sequences. The high plains and valleys have been sculpted by repeated glaciation during the Pleistocene, leaving behind moraines, cirques, and glacial lakes. Alluvial deposits and fertile soils are found in the valleys, supporting rich vegetation. The presence of granite outcrops and boulder fields is a distinctive feature of the higher elevations.
Scenic Highlights
Scenic highlights along this section of the AAWT include:
• Open High Plains: Expansive grassy plains and snow gum woodlands, offering unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains.
• Rocky Outcrops and Peaks: Granite tors and rocky summits provide vantage points for panoramic views across the Victorian Alps.
• Historic Huts: Iconic huts such as Cope Hut and Wallace’s Hut are significant heritage sites and popular rest stops for walkers.
• Alpine Meadows: In summer, the high plains are adorned with wildflowers and provide habitat for a range of wildlife.
• Waterways and Tarns: Clear mountain streams and small glacial lakes add to the scenic diversity of the landscape.
Local Flora
The vegetation is highly varied, reflecting changes in altitude and aspect:
• Snow Gum Woodlands: Eucalyptus pauciflora dominates the subalpine zone, often with a dense understorey of shrubs and grasses.
• Alpine Grasslands: Snowgrass (Poa spp.) and wildflowers such as alpine daisies (Celmisia spp.) and everlasting daisies (Xerochrysum spp.) are common on the high plains.
• Montane Forests: At lower elevations, mountain ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) and alpine ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) forests are found in sheltered valleys.
• Heathlands: In exposed areas, heath species and low-growing shrubs are prevalent.
Local Fauna
The region supports a rich and diverse fauna, adapted to both alpine and forested environments:
• Mammals: Eastern grey kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), swamp wallaby (Wallabia bicolor), wombat (Vombatus ursinus), and the endangered mountain pygmy possum (Burramys parvus) in rock screes.
• Birds: Wedge-tailed eagle (Aquila audax), gang-gang cockatoo (Callocephalon fimbriatum), superb lyrebird (Menura novaehollandiae), and a variety of honeyeaters and parrots.
• Reptiles and Amphibians: Alpine water skink (Eulamprus kosciuskoi) and the endangered corroboree frog (Pseudophryne pengilleyi) in wetlands and bogs.
• Invertebrates: Diverse alpine and forest invertebrates, including endemic species adapted to cold, windy conditions.
Indigenous History
The traditional custodians of the land through which the AAWT passes in this region are the Gunai/Kurnai and, to the west, the Taungurung people. The high plains and valleys were important seasonal gathering places for Indigenous peoples, who travelled to the area in summer to feast on Bogong moths (Agrotis infusa), a rich source of protein. The landscape holds deep spiritual and cultural significance, with evidence of occupation including artefact scatters, stone tools, and ceremonial sites. The Gunai/Kurnai and Taungurung people continue to maintain their cultural heritage and connection to country.
White History
European exploration and settlement of the area began in the mid-19th century, with pastoralists and graziers moving into the high country in search of summer grazing for cattle and sheep. The construction of huts such as Cope Hut and Wallace’s Hut reflects the pastoral heritage of the region. These huts provided shelter for stockmen and travellers and are now important heritage sites. The area was also used for gold prospecting and, later, for scientific research and recreation. In the 20th century, the establishment of the Alpine National Park and the development of ski resorts such as Falls Creek transformed the region into a major destination for bushwalking, skiing, and nature-based tourism.
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