Thursday 21/09/2023   Charlotte Pass Village – Kosciuszko Road – Charlotte Pass – Mount Kosciuszko Summit Walk – Merrits Creek – Snowy River – Seamans Hut – Rawson Pass – Mount Kosciuszko – Snowy River – Mount Clarke – Foremans Crossing

                                            Kosciuszko National Park, NSW

                                            Ngarigo Country

Participants: Marg Baz, Stephen Davies (Leader, Photos, Report), John Oakley (Photos)

This was day four of the 2023 edition of New South Wales Nordic Ski Club’s annual Charlotte Pass gathering, a week where the club takes over the Southern Alps Ski Lodge and tries to get out for as much backcountry skiing as possible. With the winter of 2023 being particularly poor for snow cover this would prove much more challenging than usual, as there were far fewer options than past years for touring. With the very high winds of the last five days now starting to ease off I was keen to get out for a longer trip so offered a return trip to Mount Kosciuszko.

Download file: 20230921.gpx                         Track Info

 

Although only three of us carried skis along Kosciuszko Summit Walk as far as Merritt Creek. A parallel party from our lodge opted for hiking boots, also heading for Seamans Hut. With no snow up to Merritt Creek, we were beginning to question our decision, but views towards the Main Range suggested we could ski most of the way back if we kept a few hundred metres to the west of the Snowy River on our return. Despite the less windy day, it felt a good bit colder than the rest of the week, so we were wearing more layers and I wished I had put in something a bit more substantial. As we got our skis on to climb towards Seamans Hut, I also regretted not having put my skins in, as every other day of the week had not required them. As I was slipping all the way to Seamans I was happy to take my skis off and get inside for lunch.

Here we were joined by a few of the Seamans Hut walking party, which included Sue, and after lunch, Marg, John and I continued towards Rawson Pass. I continued to lack traction on the firm surface. From Rawson Pass to Mount Kosciuszko, we crossed paths with a few other people who had walked up from Thredbo for the day. Whilst I watched Marg and John skin to the summit I removed my skis after herringboning the first gentler section beyond Rawson Pass before walking the rest of the way. 

Our planned/hoped-for great ski from Mount Kosciuszko did not eventuate despite there being ample snow to get a great run. Instead due to the slightly overcast, colder conditions of the day, we found ourselves on questionable, breakable crust which we still hoped would be sufficiently softer not too much lower to yet get that great run in. Such was not to be, as very keen to avoid any falls and possible injury with one already questionable knee, I ensured during the descent I looked very much like someone who had skis on for the first time. From the summit and almost all the way down to the Snowy River I would pick a slightly descending line to follow as far as possible, stop, reverse and repeat. Marg followed the same strategy.  John started the same but became emboldened as he descended and managed to string together some good sequences of turns between a couple of falls. I was very disappointed with the run but also very happy to have remained upright. Just above the river, the snow had thawed enough to get in a few very tentative telemarks. 

Once down to the river, we took in lunch two on a grassy patch before following the snow leads as best we could. This involved heading slightly uphill a couple of times and several short sections of grass skiing, the longest of which I needed to cross was a somewhat bumpy, shrub-covered 100m section across a low gully. From that point, we managed to ski most of the way to Foremans Crossing. Due to the cooler, cloudy day that we had expected the river was running at a much lower level than I had seen from the Guthega track on Tuesday, where only the largest rock of the crossing was above the river level.

As this was my last planned ski for the week I left my ski boots on for the Snowy River crossing, only getting them wet due to splashing water as I hopped from stepping stone to stepping stone. Across to the other side, I now put dry hiking boots onto my warm feet before walking back over Charlotte Pass to our lodge.

During the day Thredbo AWS recorded a gust of 81km/h at 2:00am and wind speed of 19km/h at 9:00am, easing to 13km/h at 3:00pm, a much more pleasant day than the rest of the week.

Photos

 

The 2023 Snow Depths from Snowy Hydro

 

The local flora, fauna, geology, history and some other walks (Bard)

Flora

The local flora of this area of Kosciuszko National Park is dominated by alpine and subalpine plant communities. The alpine herbfields are characterized by a diverse range of flowering plants, including snow daisies (Leucochrysum alpinum), alpine sunray (Senecio pectinatus), and purple eyebright (Euphrasia collina). At lower altitudes notable plant species include snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) and mountain ash (Eucalyptus regnans).

At lower altitudes, the subalpine woodlands are dominated by snow gums, with a variety of understory shrubs and herbs. Some common understory species include bogong moth bush (Aciphylla glacialis), mountain pepper (Tasmannia lanceolata), and mountain snowberry (Gaultheria appressa).

Fauna

The local fauna of the area is diverse. Some of the most common bird species include ravens (Corvus coronoides), magpies (Gymnorhina tibicen), and kookaburras (Dacelo novaeguineae). Other notable bird species include the endangered regent honeyeater (Xanthomyza phrygia) and the vulnerable spotted quail-thrush (Cinclosoma punctatum).

Common mammal species include wombats and echidnas (Tachyglossus aculeatus). Other notable mammal species include the endangered mountain pygmy-possum (Burramys parvus) and the vulnerable broad-toothed rat (Mastacomys fuscus).

Geology

The region traverses a variety of geological formations. The most common rock type is granite, which was formed from the cooling and solidification of molten magma.

The area has been shaped by glacial activity during the Pleistocene epoch (2.58 million to 11,700 years ago). Glaciers carved out valleys and lakes, and deposited large amounts of moraine (glacial rubble). The Snowy River is one of the most notable examples of glacial erosion in the area.

Indigenous history

The traditional custodians are the Ngarigo people. The Ngarigo people have a deep connection to the land, and their culture is rich in stories and traditions about the area.

The Ngarigo people used the area for hunting, fishing, and gathering food and medicinal plants. They also used the area for ceremonial purposes. For example, the summit of Mount Carruthers is a sacred site for the Ngarigo people.

White history

The first European to explore the area around was explorer Edmund Strzelecki in 1840. Strzelecki was the first European to climb Mount Kosciuszko, the highest mountain in Australia.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the area was used for grazing sheep and cattle. However, grazing was discontinued in the 1950s, and the area was declared a national park in 1977.

Walks

The Main Range Walking Track is a popular hiking trail in Kosciuszko National Park. The track is approximately 22 km long and takes about 8 hours to complete. The track is well-maintained and suitable for hikers of all fitness levels.

The track starts at Charlotte Pass and finishes at Rawson Pass. Along the way, the track passes through a variety of landscapes, including alpine herbfields, subalpine woodlands, and glacial valleys. The track also offers stunning views of the Snowy Mountains and surrounding areas.

Other popular walks in the area include:

• The Blue Lake Lookout walk: This short walk offers stunning views of Blue Lake, one of the most iconic lakes in Kosciuszko National Park.
• The Mount Kosciuszko Summit Walk: This challenging walk takes hikers to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, the highest mountain in Australia.
• The Thredbo River Track: This scenic walk follows the Thredbo River through subalpine woodlands and alpine herbfields.

Map View

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Contents

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