Tuesday 27/02/2024 Lake Dobson – Pandani Grove Nature Trail – Urquhart Track – Snowgum Track – Tarn Shelf Track – Robert Tarn – Mackenzie Tarn – Johnston Tarn – James Tarn – Backhouse Tarn – Lake Newdegate – Newdegate Hut – Twisted Tarn – Lake Newdegate Track – Twilight Tarn – Twilight Tarn Hut – Lake Webster Track – Lake Webster – Eagle Tarn
Mount Field National Park, lutruwita / TASMANIA
Palawa Country
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report)
Our start was a little slow this morning after our big Mount Anne walk yesterday and decided to change campgrounds to Mount Field National Park (first in gets a spot). After organising a lovely spot by the river we headed up the road towards Lake Dobson, only 16km but about half an hour on a winding dirt road.
Max elevation: 1267 m
Total climbing: 588 m
Total descent: -597 m
Average speed: 3.27 km/h
Total time: 06:52:18
We started walking at about 10:30am, thinking this was a shorter distance so it should be quite a leisurely walk, we were wrong again!
The walk around Lake Dobson was pleasant with impressive vegetation including ancient pencil pines (1,000 years old) and tall pandani. We then followed the trail up a dirt road and past ski lodges (the least interesting part of the walk) which led to Lake Seal lookout with panoramic views
Pandani along Pandani Grove Nature Walk
There is quite a lot of boardwalk on this walk, unfortunately, there were also many broken planks in multiple sections, a potentially bone-breaking hazard.
Soon Tarn Shelf came into view. It looked impressive from a distance and even more so as we got closer. This walk showcases the multitude of lakes and tarns in this small area. It reminded me of the Valley of the Seven Lakes walk in Slovenia, which was outstanding as well. Gorgeous alpine tarns with crystal clear water, lichen-coloured rocks and the unique Tasmanian vegetation make this walk a standout. Alpine flowers, ancient pines and colourful snow gums completed the picture. The tarns themselves are named after old white men, no surprises there. Each tarn was different in size and shape and there seemed to be so many of them, including some very small ones.
The hut close to Twilight Tarn, Twilight Tarn Hut, was particularly interesting because it is thought to be the first ski lodge in Tasmania, being built in 1927. A small collection of photographs and relics of the early ski days including skis, boots, stocks and even ice skates were on show in the hut.
From here the track became rougher and rockier and it was slower going. The smell and sight of smoke made us increase our pace as we were out of mobile range and had no idea where the fire might have been. This is quite a long stretch without substantial views. Finally, we were on the downhill path back to Lake Dobson. It had been a harder and longer hike than we had planned. It was a fantastic scenic day but tomorrow is definitely a “rest” day!
Information on Parks Tasmania signage along the way
TWILIGHT TARN HUT
This hut was constructed ‘in 1927 by the original Park Ranger and a small group of enthusiastic people who had formed the first ski club in Tasmania.
The hut is framed and clad with bush materials cut locally, but other materials, such as roofing and internal lining, were carried from the park entrance by horses and Ski Club members.
This is thought to be Tasmania’s first ski club hut. As such it has historic importance to Tasmania, and this National Park in particular.
In it’s heyday of the 1930’s, the area was very popular, and the hut was in frequent use, despite the difficulty of access to the region, and the long walk in from the road end at Lake Fenton. Enthusiasm had waned by the 1950’s and the hut began to fall into disrepair.
In 1981, the surviving members of the Ski Club of Tasmania donated the hut to the National Parks and wildlife Service for use by the public and to ensure it’s preservation. Major repairs were carried out by ranger staff in 1981, but the original structure, museum has been set up design and materials were retained. the the next room to display equipment which has remained in the hut since the earliest skiing days.
The generosity and hard work of others has made this building available for your use. Please treat it, and the equipment, with the respect it deserves, so that others may enjoy it after you.
Skiing at Twilight Tarn
The weekend skiers of 1930 must have been keen to make the arduous journey to Twilight Tarn-an early start to catch the steam train that took them 70km upriver from Hobart through the Derwent Valley as the thick blanket of mist began to lift through the slow warming of the winter morning sun. § Then at National Park they began the 16km ascent of Mt Field on foot with mules and pack horses to carry their gear. § The beasts steamed from their warm nostrils and flanks in the cold still air in the forest of giant eucalypts; their odour was sharp in contrast to the light, earthy fragrance of manferns and sassafras that they inhaled as they climbed the steep narrow track. § They were hot from exertion once they reached the first snow on the plateau that sparkled brilliantly in the sun. There they stopped to rest while they made a billy of tea from an icy lake stream. § Then the last few miles after Lake Dobson were easier going as the track levelled out and wound around the tarns where the birds sang out brightly from groves of snow gums. § Maybe they reached Twilight Tarn in time for late lunch, a nip of schnapps and two or three hours skiing. § A long way to come for the thrill of rushing down the slope to Lake Webster, a run of about 300m on long, narrow, wooden skis; fast but hard to manoeuvre, and easy to fall over, in which case a young lady skier would get up, brush the snow off her long woollen skirt, and tramp all the way back up the …
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, indigenous history, white history and other walks in the area (Gemini)
The Lake Dobson Circuit within Mount Field National Park offers a challenging and rewarding hike, showcasing diverse landscapes, glacial lakes, and subalpine vegetation.
Landscape Features and Geology
Underlying geology: The circuit traverses foothills composed of Precambrian quartzite, a hard and metamorphosed sandstone. Dolerite intrusions, a dark-coloured igneous rock, are also present, particularly at higher elevations. These geological components contribute to the formation of ridges, valleys, and rocky outcrops along the track.
Glacial Legacy: The landscape bears the mark of glacial activity. U-shaped valleys, carved by glaciers, are evident throughout the circuit. The numerous tarns (small glacial lakes) scattered across the plateau are a prominent feature.
Scenic Highlights
Panoramic vistas: The circuit offers opportunities for breathtaking panoramic views. From vantage points and exposed sections, walkers can experience vistas encompassing surrounding mountains, glacial valleys, and distant wilderness.
Tarn Shelf: This high plateau, a product of glacial erosion, is a highlight of the circuit. Dotted with numerous tarns and supporting unique flora, it provides a sense of remoteness and alpine beauty.
Waterfalls and tarns: The track encounters waterfalls and tarns of varying sizes, each contributing to the scenic diversity of the circuit. Notable tarns include Robert Tarn, Mackenzie Tarn, and Lake Newdegate.
Local Flora
The vegetation along the circuit varies with altitude and aspect:
Rainforest margins: Lower slopes support remnants of rainforest, dominated by myrtle (Nothofagus cunninghamii) and sassafras (Atherosperma moschatum). Pandani (Pandanus spikey) may be present in sheltered areas.
Subalpine woodlands: Ascendancy reveals subalpine woodlands with snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) as the dominant species. Shrubs such as mountain butterbush (Scolopia lewisiana) and Richea pandanifolia may add colour.
Alpine vegetation: Higher elevations transition to alpine vegetation zones, characterised by low-lying shrubs, cushion plants, and grasses adapted to the harsh conditions.
Local Fauna
The diverse habitats along the circuit provide opportunities to encounter a range of animals:
Birds: Species such as wedge-tailed eagles (Aquila audax), peregrine falcons (Falco peregrinus), and ravens (Corvus coronoides) may be sighted soaring on the thermals. Smaller birds like scrub robins (Drymodes olivacea) and thornbills (Acanthiza spp.) may be present in sheltered areas.
Mammals: Eastern grey kangaroos (Macropus giganteus) and pademelons (Thylogale spp.) may be encountered at lower elevations. Tasmanian devils (Sarcophilus harrisii) are present but nocturnal and rarely seen.
Indigenous History
The palawa people are the traditional custodians of the land now encompassed by Mount Field National Park. Evidence suggests Aboriginal Tasmanians may have ventured into the lower and mid-elevations on hunting and resource gathering expeditions. Oral histories and cultural knowledge may provide insights into their connection to this place. Consultation with Tasmanian Aboriginal people is needed for a deeper understanding of their relationship with the Lake Dobson Circuit.
White History
European exploration of the region began in the early 19th century. Logging activities likely impacted some areas, particularly at lower elevations, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The dedication of Mount Field National Park in 1916 secured the region’s natural and scenic values for future generations. The development of the Lake Dobson Circuit allows access to experience the diverse landscapes of the area while aiming to minimise environmental impact.
Other Nearby Walks
Mount Field National Park offers a variety of walking tracks catering to different interests and fitness levels:
Russell Falls Walk: A short and accessible track leading to the iconic Russell Falls.
Three Falls Track: A challenging circuit encompassing Horseshoe Falls, Lady Barron Falls, and several other waterfalls.
Ballroom Forest Walk: A short loop track showcasing the ancient Ballroom Forest with its towering trees and lush understorey.
Lake Rodway Track: A moderate walk offering scenic views of Lake Rodway and surrounding mountains.
The Lake Dobson Circuit is a challenging but rewarding experience for well-equipped and experienced hikers. The diverse landscapes, glacial tarns, subalpine flora, and potential wildlife encounters make this circuit a highlight for those seeking an immersive wilderness experience.
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