23/02/2021 – 25/02/2021 Olsens Lookout – Geehi Flats – Guthega – Mount Anderson – Mount Anton – Mount Twynam Tennyson Woods Knoll
Kosciuszko National Park, NSW
Ngarigo country
Distance: 32km Total Ascent: 1730m Total Descent: 1730m Time: 15 hours
Participants: Beth Davies, Stephen Davies (Photos, Report), Sue Davies, Pablo Ureña Vega
It was quite an adventure just to get to the start of this walk and what enormous anticipation there was in it’s planning. Our daughter, Beth, was only home from almost three years overseas for two weeks after her mandatory fourteen-day Covid-19 hotel quarantine with her partner Pablo. They had been planning for six months how they might make their journey to Australia happen.
As part of their first outdoor adventure trip back home, we decided to head south. Being keen and capable runners we started with Queanbeyan’s parkrun on Saturday before heading to Thredbo. On Sunday Pablo, Beth and Sue competed in a hot, midday 11km trail race along the Thredbo River from Crackenback Resort, each earning themselves an age based podium finish.
Lady Northcote Canyon and The Sentinel from Olsens Lookout
For Monday we had plans to start our backcountry hike but were forced to delay due to Beth rolling her ankle during the race. The weather forecast for the chance of afternoon and evening thunderstorms firmed that decision to delay our start. Instead, we drove along the Alpine Way as far as Olsen’s Lookout before returning to camp at Geehi Flats on Monday night, with lots of side trips along the way.
NSW National Parks signage at Olsen’s Lookout state
The snow-country you can see is sensitive to fire
As you can see ahead of you, there is a distinct line where the vegetation changes from trees to shrubs. Above this treeline is the alpine area – about 1850 metres where it is too cold for trees to grow. Plants here have adapted to the extremes of wind and snow but not fire.
High-elevation wet areas, such as alpine bogs and fens, are vital to the survival of all plants in the mountains during the dry summer months. These wet areas store and release water from the melting snow. However, in 2003 many of these wet areas were dry from drought and the spongy sphagnum moss was burnt. Most bog areas can recover after burning except where the underlying peat ignites, but this natural recovery is very slow-30 to 40 years.
Fire burning up steep slopes is intense
On 17 January 2003, a relatively mild fire passed through here. Strong winds and high temperatures then pushed the fire across the valley where it accelerated up the steep slopes in front of you known as the Western Fall. Much of the vegetation was severely burnt and spot fires were ignited 10-15 kilometres away on the Perisher Range and beyond.
Rising from the ashes
In many parts of the park, signs of the 2003 bushfires are fading. The Australian bush has evolved many ways to recover from fire.
To the right, you will see stands of dead alpine ash. These tall forest trees are killed by fire but regenerate from seed stored in the soil. Although alpine ash produces seed annually, the seed doesn’t germinate until fire clears the forest understorey and heat triggers the seed capsule to open. If another fire occurs too soon in less than 20 years young trees may die without maturing enough to produce seed.
Fire burning through alpine ash forests is also more likely to ignite spot fires. Alpine ash produces large quantities of loose bark which can be carried a long way by the convective heat of the fire and the wind. In 2003, many of the spot fires that started in the alpine area and beyond were caused by burning bark from this area.
Fire has changed this landscape
It is likely that there were more areas of alpine ash forest along the steep slopes of the Western Fall before the years of frequent burning. In the past, when the area was grazed, fire was used to encourage plants favoured by cattle. Although the forests themselves were not usually grazed, fire often escaped into them. Fire last passed through this point in the early 1950s.
Day 1: Tuesday 23/02/2021 Guthega – Mount Anderson
Max elevation: 2038 m
Total climbing: 752 m
Total descent: -506 m
Average speed: 2.92 km/h
Total time: 05:38:01
Tuesday saw us driving back around to Guthega Village. We were finally walking down the road to Guthega Dam at midday in unseasonably cool and overcast conditions.
From the end of the dam, we followed the road up onto the ridge to find the track up towards Guthega Ridge. My Pocket Earth map showed this leading up to Consett Stephen Pass. This is by no means a main track. We ended up losing it past Guthega Trig along a section where a few rocks cairns had been placed. With care in placing the feet due to unseen rocks and holes, we headed down and across the upper creek somewhat below where the track was marked. Whilst some wildflowers were past their prime there were many others with flowers just starting to open. We observed at least a dozen different species.
Sue, Beth and Pablo climbing the ridge
We arrived at Consett Stephen Pass after 4:00pm with Mount Tate’s Peak under heavy cloud and the temperature dropping. We momentarily contemplated finishing our short day here but pushed on with the expectation that the track would now be more obvious and the heath we at times needed to push through or walk around up the ridge would now be less of an issue. At least there was no rain and the breeze was only around 20km/h.
Although the clouds lifted on our way up Mount Tate our trail following came unstuck as we managed to follow an evident track which a few hundred metres later petered out. Looking back we observed two tracks. The upper one we missed looking like it went further.
We ended up calling it a day at around 6:00pm when we found a couple of flat spots for tent sites, nearby water and boulders on a saddle just shy of Mount Anderson. By this time there was a very winter-like chill in the air so we layered up and quickly got our camp set up. Our simple hot meals and drinks were thoroughly enjoyed before we turned in for the night as the cold breeze died off completely. A chance of snow was mentioned in the latest forecast so we were expected a cold night.
Day 2: Wednesday 24/02/2021 Mount Anderson – Tennyson Woods Knoll – Mount Anton
Max elevation: 2187 m
Total climbing: 701 m
Total descent: -551 m
Average speed: 3.01 km/h
Total time: 06:52:23
A very cold 0C February night and morning fog had us wondering which season it was. Whereas the larger landscape was not visible it was a great opportunity to check out the smaller things. The nice even lighting did help reveal the details and subtleties of the colours and textures of the nearby wildflowers and rock formations.
After a chilly breakfast and decamp, the fog had begun to burn off. As we were about to depart a National Parks helicopter did a circuit of the monitoring station to our west before heading along Pounds Creek for some observation there.
Once underway I was pleased that my injured Achilles’ tendon had calmed down a lot after being sore towards the end of yesterday and Beth spent some time checking the strapping on her sprained ankle before we headed off. With two of us carrying injuries our progress yesterday was not as far or fast as we had hoped so our mission to walk Watson’s Crags and The Sentinel today was now unrealistic.
Having left our overnight camp about 10:00am we more or less successfully followed the track/footpads past Mount Anderson and Mount Anton to reach and select our next campsite to the west of the saddle before Mount Twynam at midday. We found a couple of nice grassy tent sites near a rocky hillock and running water supply.
After lunch, we set off up Mount Twynam to intersect with the track above. Once on track we followed it to the point below Mount Twynam’s summit before heading straight up and enjoying the views from the top. All the way stopping frequently for photos to document the route and its attractions.
Boulders on Mount Twynam
From Mount Twynam we descended back onto the track for a short distance before dropping off again towards the west to walk up Tennyson Woods Knoll at the start of Watsons Crags. From the top of Tennyson Woods Knoll, we intoduced Pablo to numerous key points along the Main Range. As it was now 4:00pm we decided we should probably not push our luck with our injuries, so headed back to camp, this time, entirely on the track. Twice during the day we sighted a trail runner out for some exercise, first on Mount Anton and then later on Watsons Crags, covering much the same as our route in a much shorter time!
Back at camp around 5:15pm we enjoyed an early dinner in the calmest, mildest conditions so far. Just as the sunset colour appeared in the sky, Pablo decided he would like a photo of himself running along Twynam West Ridge. He dashed cross country from camp in under 10 minutes to be on the ridge, before running up and down several times for his photoshoot. As a very capable, enthusiastic and sponsored mountain trail athlete from Costa Rica this was his first real mountain run in Australia. We had him back at camp just as it was starting to quickly darken.
Day 3: Thursday 25/02/2021 Mount Anton – Guthega
Max elevation: 2052 m
Total climbing: 277 m
Total descent: -679 m
Average speed: 3.43 km/h
Total time: 03:04:40
Our selected shelter rocks for the night worked well, protecting us from the expected overnight 30km/h breeze. However, this was purely accidental as we had planned it so Beth and Pablo were in the sheltered position from the forecast northerly. This forecast did not eventuate locally as Sue and my easterly positioned tent experienced calm conditions from the westerly that was blowing.
A soggy start
As morning broke, we had Beth appear outside our tent fully packed and ready to walk out after saying they were getting hit nay the wind and getting wet in their tent from the rain that was now falling.
A quick check of the local radar had me suggest they move their tent, not yet into Pablo’s pack, around next to ours to sit out the approaching rain band shown to be incoming on the radar. A couple of heavy showers in windy conditions at temperatures just above zero had everyone agree that was a good decision. With the tent moved we all sat it out.
Breakfast and hot drinks done and packed up we started our walk out at 10:00am as the radar was now indicating no precipitation imminently heading our way. There was now heavy fog but lighter winds.
We quickly intersected the track and started heading south looking for the route down towards Illawong Lodge. We passed a small rock cairn and the marked position of the route by 50m before deciding that there was no clear track, so returned to the cairn to start our descent. From here down to a small creek crossing there were occasional subtle signs of footpads but no track, there were, however, a few cairns. It still being very foggy we were also following our route closely on our digital maps. Past a small creek crossing, there was easily followable track the remainder of the way.
We were halfway through our descent to the Snowy River and certainly below the tree line before we got below the clouds. All bar myself still had layers and overpants on until nearly to Illawong Crossing.
There was a lot of activity happening on the other side of the Snowy River. We eventually caught up with a team of four people dressed in white overalls and wearing chemical backpacks. They were searching for and spraying a invasive weed called Milfoil. These were mostly volunteers helping in the control of this particular weed.
We also dropped by Illawong Lodge where we found two more volunteers hard at work. They had been there for five days replacing old water pipes with a new system requiring high-pressure piping to cope with the replacement heating system. I pointed out the very small emergency shelter beneath the hut.
A couple of spots of rain were all we encountered along the track into Guthega Village, where we arrived at 12:30pm.
With the forecast for the afternoon indicating a chance of thunderstorms, we headed to Jindabyne for lunch, bypassing and abandoning our planned Island Bend overnight camping in the process. With lots of very wet gear setting up camp for another potentially wet one didn’t appeal to any of us, so Sue spent much of lunch-time looking for an alternative.
A “chalet” in Kosciuszko Park at Sawpit Creek was selected. Our gear was spread out in the warm breezy afternoon sun, it was dry again very quickly.
Overall, despite the weather, it was an enjoyable trip and a good introduction for Pablo to the Australian high country.
Clickable icons on a world map which open the related trip report
A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries and other content
Hey Steve, some good shots in there of a great part of the world. That small brown snake on day 2 is almost certainly a White-Lipped Snake. They’re about the only snake that is fairly common above the snow line