Wednesday 14/02/2024   Mount Amos Summit Carpark – Wineglass Bay Lookout Track – Wineglass Bay Lookout – Wineglass Bay Beach – Wineglass Bay Overnight Walker Campsite – Isthmus Track – Hazards Beach – Hazards Beach Track 

                                               Freycinet National Park, lutruwita / TASMANIA 

                                               Paredarerme country                               

Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report)

It was a cooler morning after yesterday’s heat and as a storm had rolled through it had cleared the air. So in pleasant conditions, we returned to Freycinet National Park for the classic Wineglass Bay circuit. Soon after we left the car we heard a voice “Hi Steve and Sue, what walk are you doing today?”  It was the lovely young woman we had met yesterday on our way down from Mount Amos who wasn’t able to make it to the top. It was a pleasant surprise to see her again.

Download file: 20240214.gpx                         Track Info

 

The trail rises gradually at first before reaching the stairs as you climb to the lookout. There are some interesting rock formations along the way and an artistic seat, I tried it out and found it quite uncomfortable!

The view of Wineglass Bay from Wineglass Bay Lookout is panoramic although I couldn’t help but think how much better it was from the higher vantage point of Mount Amos. After enjoying the views we descended the 1,000 steps to reach the white sands of Wineglass Bay.

We had done this circuit walk when we were here six years ago but we hadn’t walked the length of Wineglass Bay Beach so we decided to give it a go. The sand was soft making it fairly slow going but the views looking back to the peaks and the white sands of the beach made it very worthwhile. It looked like a tropical paradise with the mountains rising above the azure waters and meeting the pristine white sand. It was a feast for the eyes! Today there were powerful shore dumping waves at the northern end of the beach and as the southern end looked more protected from the swell it appeared calmer, so we kept walking. It was about 3km long, so took about an hour to reach the end. The water here was crystal clear and looked quite inviting despite a cool breeze.

There is a campground, Wineglass Bay Overnight Walker Campsite, for through walkers here and it seemed that those staying there had arrived by kayak. We attempted to make our way to the small rocky headland at the southern end of the beach but it was not accessible through the bush or along the rocks. We started our return walk along the beach, however, a few hundred metres along the wind dropped and I couldn’t resist a swim. The water was very refreshing and crystal clear. It was glorious!

Back to walking the beach, Steve photographed some Pacific Gulls and we eventually arrived at the northern end. Here, we decided to stop for lunch on the rocks in the shade of the trees. There were a lot more people at this end, several even braving the strong shore dumping waves.

We noticed a wallaby moving slowly towards us, it didn’t seem perturbed by the presence of humans at all and it seemed to be scrounging for scraps. Unfortunately, it didn’t look very healthy at all, possibly due to poor dietary supplements from people’s lunches. It came right up to us and posed for selfies. It was quite sad really because it was far from normal marsupial behaviour.

Steve wanted to return via the Isthmus track to get some extra kilometres in. We hadn’t found it that exciting when we did it six years previously, so there were no surprises that nothing had changed. The walkthrough to Hazards Beach was fine, and the walk along that beach wasn’t very long. The trail back to the car park is quite long, although there are views across the water and a few small beaches along the way. Somewhat surprisingly though although you walk around the base of Mount Mayson, you get no good views of it above.

We finally arrived back at the car park (the last few kilometres felt a bit of a slog) where there were large buses with throngs of international tourists. Time to get out!

It was a pleasant day of walking and the weather was fantastic, with great views and a good dose of exercise.

Photos

Panoramas

 

Geri’s Dairy Entry for the Day

“Bushwalk day today. So we set our alarms for 6:30 am to get an early start before the crowds. We set off from carpark at trail head at * 815am to do the Wineglass Bay/Hazards Beach circuit. (11km walk) The track was well trodden and well constructed with stone steps, retaining walls, seats, lookouts, etc a good gradient, good step height to the Bay. Good swell running with waves breaking close to shore – good dumpers. A couple of brave souls went in for a swim Number of people was increasing quickly as we sat and watched the water.

Sue and Steve also walked onto the beach – they had caught up to us. We walked along the beach for a little way with them — they wanted to go to the end of the beach and maybe further (extra 6km return on beach) Sue had a swim at other end of beach. John and I returned to walk the Isthmus tack – great view across Hazards lagoon, (saw a bird here ? cuckoo like?? When we reached Hazards beach it was quite windy here – good swell rolling in. Plenty of shells along beach. A lot of scallop shells. Midden in dunes. We enjoyed lunch at end of Hazards beach, watching and listening to the surf roll in. The walk back along Hazards track along the coast was also well formed and well trodden . Only close to water briefly – we looked at one small shelly cove, the next was a rocky cove. then the tracks headed away from the beach with steps along tea tree, banksia. the way which was gently undulating. Good views of rock formation, on top of Mt Mayson – John said the last few I’m were not necessary but to get back to car. it was necessary.

Grass trees have suffered from die back due to Phytophthora root rot. This microorganism has left many of dead and dying grass trees, bush peas and heath. in the black peppermint A sign at carpark explained why people shouldn’t pick up sticks to  use them as walking poles: material for white-bellied sea eagles to build nests, homes, food a nesting material for animals, to stop erosion, protect seedlings.”

 

Information on Parks Tasmania signage along the way

Wineglass Bay Beach

1000 stairs

You should only choose to continue down to Wineglass Bay Beach if you are properly prepared and physically capable of walking down-and then back up-around 1000 stairs (that’s a lot of steps!).

The walk to beautiful Wineglass Bay Beach is not suitable for everyone. Many people find this walk challenging— especially the very young, the unfit, and those unaccustomed to bushwalking. The track down to the beach is considerably steeper than the track you have walked so far.

Please read all the information on this sign before deciding whether the walk to Wineglass Bay Beach is suitable for you and your companions.

While it’s quite a workout, returning via the same track is the shortest and easiest route. Many people have been caught-out trying to take the Hazards Beach circuit to try to avoid coming back up the stairs, only to find that the circuit is far longer and more exhausting than expected.

MEDIUM WALK

WINEGLASS BAY RETURN 

MODERATE 1½/ hrs, 2.6 km to return here (plus a further / hr to car park) 

For the average person with moderate fitness, the walk will take you approximately 1½ hours to return to this point. If you are less fit you can certainly still do the walk but you should allow extra time (at least an extra half an hour) and make sure you walk at a manageable pace with regular rest stops-they’re a perfect opportunity to admire the view!

LONGER DAY WALK

WINEGLASS BAY AND HAZARDS BEACH

MODERATE 4 hours, 9.7 km circuit track back to the car park

Walkers who are well prepared (plenty of food, water and the appropriate clothing) may wish to do the much longer walk via Hazards Beach. This circuit takes you to magnificent Wineglass Bay, across the isthmus and back to the car park via beautiful Hazards Beach. The track from Hazards Beach to the car park undulates around the flanks of Mount Mayson.

Important!

BE PREPARED

Please make sure you read the following points to make sure you are adequately prepared to continue on to Wineglass Bay Beach.

• Shoes: Wear sturdy walking shoes or boots— thongs are not suitable footwear for this walk.

• There is no drinking water available on this walk— you must carry drinking water in with you. At least 1 litre per person for every 3 hours of walking.

• Food: Take some high energy snacks and / or a meal. • Wind and rain protection: Make sure you pack a waterproof jacket to keep out the wind and rain.

• Sun protection: Wear a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses. • Limited phone signal beyond this point.

• No toilets beyond this point.

LEAVE NO TRACE

National parks and reserves are special places. They provide refuge for plants and animals and help protect cultural sites.

• Plan ahead and prepare: Walk in small groups.

Split larger parties into groups of 4-6.

• Walk and camp on durable surfaces: Stay on the formed tracks, only camp at designated sites.

• Dispose of waste properly: Pack it in, pack it out. Carry all rubbish out of the park with you-including cigarette butts and tissues. Bury all faecal waste and toilet paper 15-20cm deep at least 100m from water, camps and tracks. Cover and disguise the hole when finished.

• Leave what you find: Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them.

Respect Indigenous Australian sites and other sites of cultural significance.

• No fires: Freycinet National Park is a Fuel Stove Only Area. Fires are strictly prohibited.

• Respect wildlife: Keep wildlife wild. Do not touch or feed animals. Feeding birds and animals can turn them into pests and may make them sick.

• Be considerate: Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. No drones— unauthorised flying of unmanned aerial vehicles (drones) is prohibited.

 

Information on Parks Tasmania signage along the way

TOORERNOMAIRREMENER 

This area was once the homeland of the Toorernomairremener Aborigines who hunted and lived along these shores.

Every feature was known and named. Today, very few places carry Aboriginal names as much of their language was ‘lost’, forced aside, or inappropriately used. Today’s Tasmanian Aborigines are reviving their language. Some European names along the coast are reminiscent of Europeans’ early encounters with Aboriginals. Friendly Beaches in the northern section of the park describes the first friendly encounters between two vastly different cultures, while the Bay of Fires, to the north of Freycinet, was named by Captain Furneaux in 1773 after sighting many Aboriginal fires burning along the coast.

Mt Amos track – WARNING

Mt Amos track is a challenging walk for physically fit and well equipped walkers. Please take the time to read the notes below before attempting the Mt Amos track.

• This track requires boulder scrambling and has some extremely steep sections.

• The track crosses rock slabs which become very slippery when wet. Do not attempt during or immediately following rainy/wet conditions.

• Allow at least 5 hours of daylight to complete this track (note short daylight hours in winter in Tasmania).

EXPLORERS

… The Dutch 

The first known charting of the Tasmanian coastline the landmarks named was Schouten Island, which lies t was by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1642. One of to the south of Freycinet Peninsula. Justus Schouten was a member of the Council of the Dutch East India Company whose ships sailed the southern oceans in search of exotic spices for trade. Tasman’s explorations were acknowledged over two hundred years later when Tasmania was named after him in 1855 and the island’s former name – Van Diemen’s Land – was relinquished.

… The French

Many features along the East Coast of Tasmania carry French names, resulting from the Baudin Expedition of 1802. Napoleon Bonaparte directed Captain Nicolas Baudin – expedition leader of two ships (Le Geographe and Le Naturaliste) – to “chart the coast of the Great South Land, including Antony van Diemen’s Land, for research of all kinds and to increase the mass of human knowledge”. Freycinet Peninsula was named after Louis Freycinet, sub-lieutenant on Le Geographe. Cape Baudin is on the eastern side of Schouten Island and was named in 1959 to commemorate Baudin, while Mt Baudin, one of the Hazards Peaks, was named in 2000 to commemorate the bicentenary of the Baudin expedition.

Some other French place names within the park include Cape Degerando on the south coast of the Peninsula (after a social anthropologist who wrote a guide for the study of Aboriginal people encountered on the expedition), Cape Faure on the south coast of Schouten Island (the expedition’s geographer), Cape Forestier to the south of Wineglass Bay (one of Napoleon’s generals who helped organize the expedition), Cape Sonnerat on the south-east tip of Schouten Island (a French naturalist), and Cape Tourville east of Coles Bay (a famous French Admiral).

WHALERS 

The crystal clear, turquoise water of Wineglass Bay once ran red with the blood of slaughtered whales. Shorebased whaling stations were scattered around the Peninsula, including at the southern end of Wineglass Bay, Bryans Beach, Crocketts Bay, Hen and Chicken Bay, Befuge Island and Parsons Cove (The Fisheries).

The Hazards – the line of mountains that define Freycinet – is not, as you might expect, named after the hazardous nature of the peaks, but rather, both it and Hazards Beach are named after American Albert ‘Black’ Hazard, captain of a whaling ship active in the area in the 1820s. His ship, Promise, came aground on the rock that bears the name. Promise Rock lies just off Hazards Beach. George Meredith, one of the first settlers at Swansea, established a whale ‘fishery’ at. • Parsons Cove in 1824, which became known as The Fisheries.

Shore-based whaling was on the decline by the 1840s due to years of ruthless exploitation. The southern right whale had been hunted to the brink of extinction. These days, these magnificent creatures can be seen during winter as they migrate north from the Antarctic to breed in warmer waters and return south in spring. Keep a lookout from Cape Tourville or any of the Park’s peaks.

EARLY SETTLERS 

In the 1830s, an early settler named Silas Cole – after whom Coles Bay is named – burned shells from the large Aboriginal middens on Richardsons Beach to make lime for use in mortar.

A sealer named Joseph Stacey discovered coal in the mudstones on the western part of Schouten Island after he was washed ashore in 1809. It was first mined commercially (and quite unsuccessfully) from around 1840 to 1880. At one point, Edward Crockett was mine manager. Crocketts Bay on the north coast of Schouten is named after him.

At around the same time, Chinese tin miners arrived to briefly work the alluvial deposits on Schouten Island. Chinese Creek on Schouten Island is named after them.

Sheep and cattle grazing were carried out on parts of the Peninsula as early as the 1850s and continued on Schouten Island until the 1960s. Bryans Beach, Bryans Corner and Bryans Lagoon are named after the three generations of Bryans who lived and worked on the Peninsula. Cooks Hut, Cooks Beach and Cooks Corner are named after Athol Cook who farmed in the area in 1910.

Mt Amos was named after Adam and John Amos – Swansea district farmers for Lieutenant George Meredith, the first settler of the East Coast. Mt Graham – after one of the early respected ‘citizens of Swansea. Morris’ three-storey warehouse in Swansea (still standing) was originally built for Mr Graham. Mt Dove is named after a Sec: sh Reverend who had a diverse career in the early colony, beginning with serving as a missionary to the Aborigines of Flinders Island, before being a Religious Instructor to the convicts in the Probation Station at Darlington in 1842, and finally as Presbyterian Minister to the early settlers at Greater Swanport. Mt Mayson was named in honour of Rev Joseph Mayson – rector of the Anglican Church at Swansea for many years.

EARLY TOURISTS 

Coles Bay and Freycinet Peninsula have been popular holiday destinations for over 100 years, with early visitors arriving by boat or steamer from Swansea. One of the first to promote the tourist potential of the area was Harry Parsons, after whom Parsons Cove is named. He retired to Coles Bay in the 1920s and established shacks at The Fisheries.

A short time later, in 1934, Ron Richardson leased the Chateau Holiday Units from the Government. This complex has since been redeveloped as Freycinet Lodge. The beach between the Lodge and the Visitor Centre is Richardsons Beach.

SOME MYSTERIES REMAIN…

 Wineglass Bay is one of the world’s most famous beaches, yet the origin of its name is unknown. Is the water as clear as a wineglass, or is the bay shaped like a wineglass? Or was the water once wine-red with the blood of slaughtered whales?

And there are others you might like to ponder … Barrel O’Tar Cliff… Half Lemon Rock … Hen and Chicken Bay … Chain Locker Bay … Honeymoon Bay …

 

The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, indigenous history, white history and other walks in the area (Gemini)

Freycinet National Park: A Geological Tapestry of Coastal Beauty

Freycinet National Park, a jewel of Tasmania’s east coast, boasts a diverse landscape sculpted by millions of years of geological processes. This haven for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts offers dramatic granite peaks, pristine white-sand beaches, towering sea cliffs, and lush rainforests, all interwoven with a rich cultural tapestry.

 Landscape Features:

Hazards Mountains: The centrepiece of the park, these majestic granite peaks, including the iconic Mt. Amos (454m) and Mt. Freycinet (620m), were formed by a massive granite intrusion over 200 million years ago. These weathered peaks, adorned with pink and orange hues, rise majestically from the coastline, creating a breathtaking panorama.

Wineglass Bay: One of the most photographed beaches in Australia, Wineglass Bay boasts a perfectly curved arc of pristine white sand, turquoise waters, and granite headlands framing the picture. This sheltered bay offers a picturesque haven for swimming, sunbathing, and kayaking.

Friendly Beaches: Unlike Wineglass Bay, Friendly Beaches face the exposed Southern Ocean. Characterized by dramatic windswept dunes, powerful surf, and rugged rock formations, this area offers a wilder coastal experience for seasoned beachgoers.

Coles Bay: This sheltered bay serves as the gateway to the park, offering stunning views of the Hazards Mountains and access to boat tours, kayaking adventures, and walking trails.

Lake Dobson: Nestled amidst towering forests, this freshwater lake reflects the surrounding mountains and offers a serene escape for paddleboarding and wildlife observation.

 Geology:

 The park’s landscape is a testament to its complex geological history. The Hazards Mountains are remnants of a vast granite batholith formed deep within the Earth’s crust. Over millions of years, weathering and erosion sculpted these granite giants, exposing their pink and orange feldspar crystals. The dramatic coastline reflects the erosive power of wind, waves, and ice ages, shaping sea cliffs, beaches, and rock formations.

 Scenic Highlights:

Wineglass Bay Lookout: Witness the iconic curve of Wineglass Bay from above, offering panoramic views of the Hazards Mountains and the turquoise waters lapping the shore.

Hazards Beach and Mt. Amos Hike: Challenge yourself with a hike to the summit of Mt. Amos, rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the coastline and surrounding mountains.

Friendly Beaches: Experience the raw power of the Southern Ocean from Friendly Beaches, witnessing dramatic waves crashing against the rugged coastline.

Coles Bay Lookout: Enjoy panoramic vistas of the Hazards Mountains, Wineglass Bay, and the Freycinet Peninsula from the conveniently accessible Coles Bay Lookout.

Walks within the Park: Explore the diverse landscapes through numerous walking tracks, ranging from the iconic Wineglass Bay Circuit to shorter strolls through forests and along coastlines.

 Local Flora:

 The diverse habitats of Freycinet National Park support a rich variety of plant life. Coastal heathlands showcase flowering heath, tea-tree, and banksias, while sheltered forests boast towering eucalypts, blackwoods, and tree ferns. The park is also home to unique and threatened plant species, like the endangered Zieria ornithoptera (Wedge-leaved Zieria).

 Local Fauna:

 A diverse array of animals call Freycinet National Park home. Look out for wallabies and pademelons grazing in the forests, echidnas foraging in the undergrowth, and colourful birds like parrots, honeyeaters, and kookaburras flitting through the trees. Marine life thrives in the surrounding waters, with whales, dolphins, seals, and penguins occasionally gracing visitors with their presence.

 Indigenous History:

 The park holds deep significance for the indigenous Palawa people, who have inhabited the area for thousands of years. Evidence of their connection to the land can be found in archaeological sites, including middens and stone artefacts. The park recognizes and respects the ongoing cultural connection of the Palawa people to their traditional lands.

 White History:

 European explorers first arrived in the area in the early 1800s. The park was named after French explorer Louis de Freycinet, who charted the coastline in 1822. Over the years, the area saw settlements, fishing activities, and eventually tourism become the primary industry.

 Other Walks:

 Freycinet National Park offers numerous walking tracks that cater to diverse abilities and interests. Popular options include:

Hazards Beach and Mt. Amos Hike: A challenging multi-day trek with stunning views.

Wineglass Bay Circuit: A moderate day walk showcasing the iconic bay and surrounding landscape.

Waterfall Creek Track: An easy walk through rainforests leading to a refreshing waterfall.

&Many shorter thematic walks focusing on specific aspects like geology, history, or birdwatching.

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