Friday 8/03/2024   Irby Boulevard Carpark – Razorback Ridge Track – Anniversary Bay Circuit – Broadview Hill Track – Broadview Hill – Rocky Cape Coastal Route – Banksia Grove Circuit – Lee-Archer Cave Track – Lee-Archer Cave – Wet Cave

                                  (pinmatik) Rocky Cape National Park, lutruwita / TASMANIA

                                   Tangdimmaa Country                                  

Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report)

It was a bit cloudy this morning so we had a slower start, enjoying morning tea at the cafe with fellow Trakkadu (our campervan brand) travellers John and Sue.

Download file: 20240308.gpx                         Track Info

 

Today we wanted to cover the eastern end of this coastal park. Firstly we climbed up to Broadview Hill for sweeping views of the coastline. Returning to the track we continued to the turnoff for Doone Falls. It was quite warm and humid at this point and we decided not to walk to the falls as we were pretty certain they would be dry given the lack of recent rainfall. We then descended onto the sandy beach at Anniversary Bay. We found a nice shady spot for lunch which looked like an ideal campsite. The walk along Anniversary Bay was fairly easy as it was low tide, at high tide you would need to negotiate the sharp quartzite rocks of the exposed rock platforms.

After leaving the beach we walked through a lovely grove of large Saw Leaf Banksia and we saw a blue tongue lizard who was happy to pose for photos. Soon we reached the turnoff to the two caves, Lee Archer Cave and Wet Cave. The track to Lee Archer Cave leads to a viewing platform as access into the cave is not permitted. It contains valuable records of aboriginal habitation (dating back 10,000 years). We retraced our steps and walked to the Wet Cave. It was also used by aboriginal people but entry is allowed. We used our headlamps to look around inside as it was deeper than we first thought. We found an animal skeleton and saw the pool which would have been a permanent water source. Returning to the track we had a short walk to Sisters Beach and our car.

This was a great, varied and scenic half-day walk.

Photos

Panoramas

 

 

Information on Parks Tasmania signage along the way

Welcome to Tangdimmaa [Rocky Cape] and in its turn, the land shaped them.

HOME meant shelter for the Rarerloihenaa people, in caves and along the narrow coastal plain.

Changing sea levels during the vast length of time they lived here means that some of the places where they lived are now underwater.

Shelter from the storm

If you take the walk to Lee-Archer and Wet caves on the headland in front of you, you will see some of the places that the Rarerloihenaa people called home. 

The ice ages of the past 45,000 years have shaped how Aboriginal people lived in this land. At the peak of the cold, vast amounts of water were trapped as ice, causing sea levels to drop. At these times Bass Strait was dry – a land bridge between Tasmania and mainland Australia.

As the cold retreated and the ice melted, water levels rose. Some of the camps made by Aboriginal people during this time now lie under the waters of Bass Strait. Who knows how many drowned caves lie under the sea?

The sea caves are visible along these cliffs were formed during much earlier times when water levels were around 20 metres higher than they are today. As you walk along the coastal track, imagine waves crashing against the rock walls, gouging out caves in weak points in the rock.

A life shaped by the land

The North West Aboriginal people lived along the north coast from Lowreene moonartric [Table Cape! west to Draynunroohaa [Cape Grim], and down the west coast to Langerrareroune [Macquarie Harbour]. The Rarerloihenaa band lived in the area around Rocky Cape. Their lives were shaped by the form the land took – the dense vegetation and rugged terrain of the inland regions kept them on the narrow coastal plain.

They travelled along the coast with the changing of the seasons, sharing food resources with other bands. River mouths and coastal lagoons were the place to be in spring, when ducks and swans laid their eggs. The rocky headlands and offshore islands that you see around you were occupied during summer, when yula (muttonbirds) were abundant.

Always, respect for the land was the guiding principle.

Today’s Aboriginal community have a continuing respect and love for this land and maintain links through regular visits. Spread widely across Tasmania, they are redeveloping their land management and heritage in many places, including the Rocky Cape area.

Traditional values of land, sea and waterways and keeping their culture alive are central to the Tasmanian Aboriginal identity.

This interpretation has been developed and approved by Tasmanian Aboriginal people. Because we do not come from this area, and there is no-one from the Rarerloihenaa people who lived here that we can ask, we have done our best to ensure that the information is represented in a respectful way.

Aboriginal people shaped this land….

Look at this land through Aboriginal eyes, and you’ll see another country. Turn back the clock two hundred years or so, and imagine the houses, the roads, and the ships at sea have disappeared. What you will see before you then is not pristine wilderness, but HOME. Home for the Rarerloihenaa people, offering shelter and sustenance through countless generations.

Food to burn

Look at the rolling hills around you. They are covered by heath – a diverse collection of low flowering plants that supports a wide variety of animal life.

Fire plays an important role in maintaining this diversity. If no fires burn for many years, a few heathland species grow tall and dense and choke out the others. That in turn deprives birds and animals of the range of fruits and seeds that they need for a healthy diet, forcing them to seek another place to live.

During the vast stretch of time that Aboriginal people lived here, they burned off patches of heath from time to time. This mosaic of burning mimicked the natural fires that occur after lightning strikes. 

The fresh new growth provided a ready supply of plant food for the Rarerlothenaa people, and the animals enticed onto the land also provided a welcome source of meat. 

This kind of burning has had a long-term effect on the plant community here. It has ensured that a large variety of plants can maintain a foothold in the landscape.

When dense heath and tea tree cover is burned, the sun can penetrate through to the ground again, and small plants are able to sprout into life.

Many of the plants that grow here need fire to complete their life cycle. Some plants, such as tabelak [banksias] have seedcases that only snap open after feeling the heat of a fire.

Many of the parrakaa [orchids] for which Rocky Cape is renowned only appear after fire. In seasons when no fire passes through, they remain dormant, sustained by the energy stored in tubers underground.

The Rarerloihenaa people burned a little at a time, over a cycle of many years, and shaped the diversity of the landscape that you see today.

But when fire rages too frequently, it’s a different story. Plants that regenerate from seed need several years for the seedlings to grow to maturity and set seeds of their own.

If another fire sweeps through too quickly, as happened here in 1998 and 2002, the balance shifts and some species are lost from the areas hit hardest.

While you are enjoying your walk in Rocky Cape National Park, please take great care with fire, and don’t discard cigarettes and matches in the bush.

tabelak

The heat of a fire has caused the woody fruits of this saw banksia (Banksia serrata) to snap open, releasing seeds that fall onto ground fertilised by ash. Seedlings grow up to replace those plants killed by the fire.

You can see this cycle at work in Banksia Grove, 15 minutes walk from here.

yamana

Grass trees (Xanthorrhoea) only produce flower spikes after fire, providing food for the many birds that live here. A new skirt of fresh leaves grows from the blackened stumps. Aboriginal people enjoyed their sweet, nutty taste.

hootenaa

Browsing animals like the Bennett’s wallaby (Macropus rufogriseus) are dependent on a healthy diversity of plants for survival.

By their practice of burning patches of heathland, Aboriginal people ensured a plentiful supply of animals t supplement their diet.

parrakaa

Lizard orchids (Burnettia cuneata) surge into life through soil covered in ash. This orchid only appears in the spring following a fire, then disappears from sight until the next one. You can see why orchid-lovers flock to Rocky Cape after a fire!

parrakaa

Wax-lip orchids (Glossodia major) appear in great numbers after fire and flower profusely. While this is going on above ground, the plants grow vigorously underground too, storing energy in starchy tubers. Aboriginal people roast the tubers in hot ashes for a delicious meal.

The threatened Paterson’s spider orchid (Caladenia patersonit) comes up in large numbers after fire, then disappears again. Its underground tubers store energy until the next fire rolls around.

The tall leek orchid (Prasophyllum elatum) regenerates after fire with tall dark shoots that look for all the world like burnt and blackened tea tree stems. Perhaps this disguise allows the plant to escape being eaten by hungry wallabies.

 

The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, indigenous history, white history and other walks in the area (Gemini)

Landscape Features and Geology

Dolerite coastline: The route traverses sections of coastline characterised by impressive dolerite cliffs. Dolerite is a dark-coloured and fine-grained igneous rock formed by volcanic activity.

Sea stacks and islets: Offshore, dolerite sea stacks and islets create a visually striking seascape.

Sandy beaches: Pockets of sheltered sandy beaches offer a contrast to the rugged cliffs.

Heath-covered hills: The route also ventures inland through rolling hills covered in heathland vegetation.

Scenic Highlights

Panoramic coastal vistas: The walk offers spectacular views of the coastline, with crashing waves, dramatic cliffs, and offshore islands.

Banksia Grove: A significant stand of saw banksias (Banksia serrata) provides a unique botanical feature. These iconic Australian plants have large, cylindrical flower heads.

Lee-Archer Cave: This impressive sea cave offers a glimpse into the geological forces that shaped the coastline.

Wet Cave: A smaller cave located near Lee-Archer Cave, offering a different perspective on the coastal environment.

Local Flora

The vegetation along the Rocky Cape Coastal Route varies depending on location:

Coastal heath: Exposed coastal areas are dominated by low-growing heath vegetation adapted to wind and salt spray. This may include species such as coastal rosemary (Leucopogon virgatus) or heath banksia (Banksia ericifolia).

Saw banksia woodland: Inland areas support stands of saw banksias, with other shrubs such as tea tree (Melaleuca spp.) or melaleucas (Melaleuca ericifolia) potentially present.

Coastal scrub: Rocky headlands may support coastal scrub vegetation with species like coastal wattle (Acacia sophorae) or saltbush (Atriplex spp.).

Local Fauna

The fauna of the Rocky Cape Coastal Route reflects the diverse habitats present:

Birds: Seabirds such as gulls (Laridae family) or mutton-birds (Puffinus carneipes) can be seen along the coastline. Raptors such as wedge-tailed eagles (Aquila audax) may also be sighted.

Marine mammals: Seals and dolphins can be spotted offshore, particularly in calmer conditions.

Reptiles: Snakes such as tiger snakes (Notechis scutulatus) are present in Tasmania, so caution is advised while walking.

Indigenous History

The palawa people are the traditional custodians of this land. Evidence suggests Aboriginal Tasmanians frequented the Rocky Cape area for hunting, fishing, and resource gathering.  While no permanent settlements are known within the park, artefacts and middens (shell and bone scatters) indicate their connection to this place.  Further consultation with Tasmanian Aboriginal people is needed for a deeper understanding of their relationship with Rocky Cape.

White History

European settlement in the north-west region began in the early 19th century. Land use included grazing and some quarrying activities.  Rocky Cape National Park was proclaimed in 1978, recognising the park’s natural and cultural values.  The walking tracks and viewing platforms allow visitors to appreciate the park’s beauty while minimising environmental impact.

Other Nearby Walks

Rocky Cape National Park offers a range of walking tracks beyond the Rocky Cape Coastal Route:

Cathedral Rock Circuit: Explore dramatic dolerite columns and access Cathedral Beach.

The Neck Circuit: Hike through heathland and coastal forests with views of Bakers Beach.

Doone Falls Track: Take a longer walk to Doone Falls, a cascading waterfall within the park.

The Rocky Cape Coastal Route, encompassing its various sections, provides a comprehensive experience of Rocky Cape National Park.  From dramatic coastlines and unique flora to historical and cultural significance, the route offers a glimpse into the natural beauty of Tasmania’s north-west.

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