17/03/2017 – 20/03/2017 El Chalten – Campamento Agnostini – Campamento Poincenot – Laguna de los Tres – Fitz Roy
Los Glaciares National Park, Patagonia, ARGENTINA
Distance: 62km Total Ascent: 2600m Total Descent: 2600m Time: 30 hours
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report)
The Fitz Roy area of Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park, along with Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, are the two most popular trekking areas in Patagonia. This relatively easy four day walk rewarded us with outstanding views, wonderful photos opportunities and the bonus of gorgeous autumn colours. The highlight was a pre-dawn walk up to Laguna de los Tres for sunrise over the incredibly scenic Cerro Fitz Roy and Laguna de los Tres. However, this walk continued to deliver right up to our walk out to El Chalten on day four.
The walk begins and finishes in the town of El Chalten which can be accessed by regular buses from El Calafate, Argentina .
Day 1: Friday 17/3/2017 El Chalten – Campamento Agnostini
Max elevation: 797 m
Total climbing: 781 m
Total descent: -572 m
Average speed: 3.78 km/h
Total time: 07:20:20
We had a slow start as we needed to prepare for our four day walk this morning after yesterday being busy totally engrossed in our ice climbing adventure on Viedma Glacier.
Sue went to see what she could buy at the shops and returned disappointed by the very limited suitable supplies available in El Chalten. We still managed to get packed up and out of the room by 10:00am. We picked up a few last minute supplies and had morning tea, then as there were no more excuses we were off again.
We didn’t see any signs in the town as to where the trail started and our guide book was not very clear either. Obviously looking somewhat confused a kind local motorist stopped and pointed us in the right direction.
Soon, we were climbing the hill and leaving town. There are no reservations or bookings required and the campsites are free in Los Glaciares National Park. We had thought that if the weather was not good we would do day walks from El Chalten but as the forecast was favourable for the next week we were looking forward to getting out again.
Glaciar Torre and Cordon Adela with the needle-like Cerro Torre behind Laguna Torre
The route was fairly straightforward, not difficult and was well signposted. After about three hours of walking we arrived at the simple camp with a drop toilet and silty water which was collected from the adjacent river. The views nearby were beyond impressive. Just above the camp was a fantastic views of Laguna Torre (although it was a brownish colour), the needle like finger of Cerro Torre, Glaciar Torre and Cordon Adela. In the afternoon we walked to the viewpoint to the right of the lake, Mirador Maestri, with gorgeous views of and over Glacier Torre (about a 50minute walk from camp).
We couldn’t resist returning to the lake for sunset views as the skies had cleared.
Day 2: Saturday 18/3/2017 Campamento Agnostini – Campamento Poincenot
Max elevation: 760 m
Total climbing: 578 m
Total descent: -485 m
Average speed: 3.83 km/h
Total time: 06:00:20
Steve had arisen at some ridiculous hour (4:00am) to attempt a star trail sequence in front of Laguna Torre. Sue managed to get up for sunrise but viewed it from the rock near camp. It was a gorgeous clear morning and we witnessed some pinking of Cerro Torre and surrounding peaks. After breakfast and we went back for more views, we just couldn’t get enough!
Glaciar Torre and Cordon Adela with Cerro Torre behind Laguna Torre from near camp
We had an early lunch next to the Rio Fitz Roy with ridiculous views before deciding we should get on our way. There was some backtracking on yesterday’s route until we reached the turnoff for Campamento Poincenot. From here it is a delightful walk through the forest until we reached and walked along, in turn, the idyllic lakes Laguna Neita, Laguna Hija and Laguna Madre.
We were being constantly tempted to stop and take photos with increasingly spectacular views of Monte Fitz Roy under crystal clear skies. The autumnal tones of the vegetation added to the picturesque scenes.
We arrived at Campamento Poincenot after about 3.5hours walking. We had been given a tip from someone who had been here to head through the campsite down the steps to additional campsites closer to the river. This was a good advice as the main camp was quite full.
We planned and prepared for our early departure tomorrow to Laguna de Los Tres, hoping that the fine weather would continue for one more day.
Day 3: Sunday 19/3/2017 Campamento Poincenot – Laguna de los Tres
Max elevation: 1212 m
Total climbing: 1002 m
Total descent: -979 m
Average speed: 3.06 km/h
Total time: 13:15:00
It was two glaciers in one day!
Steve awoke at 3:00am with the hope of star trails over Monte Fitz Roy. Sue headed off on the track at 5:30am in the dark, both of us with head torches of course.
We were told the track was extremely steep, as it rises 400m over one kilometre. It really wasn’t too bad, even in the dark. The stars were out and the moon was half full against the clear night sky. Steve was excited to use his new star trail gadget and he wasn’t even the first one up to the lookout. One guy had walked in from El Chalten leaving at 2:00am!
The sunrise did not disappoint. We had to wait until nearly 8:00am but the colours were stunning. The scene of Laguna de Los Tres with the towering Monte Fitz Roy above it with glaciers surrounding was worth all the effort. The pink tinges lasted for some time and it looked like the fingers of mountains were being painted by hand. When the colour was over Sue headed down but Steve remained to take more pictures.
Sue and Steve at Laguna Piedras Blancas
We relaxed at camp for a while and then after lunch headed off on the other day walk from the camp to Laguna Piedas Blancas. There were no signs for this walk so we had to rely on the guide book description. When we followed the directions we found cairns marking the route along the bank of Rio Blanco. It turned out to be more like the walking we are used to, the track was rougher and we had to negotiate the way at times. Surprisingly, two other groups decided to do the walk at the same time so we worked together in some sections.
Once we left the river bank the wasn’t a trail, we just had to work our way around massive boulders. Eventually, we reached the shore of Laguna Piedras Blancas and Glaciar Peidras Blancas above with it’s bristling ice towers. The return down to Rio Blanco was somewhat easier, as we ignored the cairned route and sidled around and down just above the larger boulder around which we passed on the way up.
Day 4: Monday 20/3/2017 Campamento Poincenot – El Chalten
Max elevation: 742 m
Total climbing: 268 m
Total descent: -622 m
Average speed: 4.22 km/h
Total time: 03:25:55
We had some light rain overnight so we were in no rush to get out of the tent. No star trails at 3:00am on this morning! Sue eventually emerged to prepare breakfast but Steve stayed put and rested. A rainbow was on display after the rain which filled the sky and was visible from the campsite. Sue got some good pics but an exhausted Steve didn’t even get out of the tent!
By the time we had finished a leisurely breakfast and packed up, the skies had cleared to another gorgeous day. We knew it was an easy walk out so we were in no rush and soaked in all the views.
Cerro Poincenot and Monte Fitz Roy from track along Rio Chorrillo del Salto
There were several miradors on the trail out and a lovely spot by the river where Steve got serious with some tripod photography but all too soon it was over and we were back in El Chalten at the vegetarian restaurant making up for what we missed out on over the past four days. We were lucky to enjoy some perfect weather on the walk with pristine views and wonderful sunrises and sunsets.
A few tips if you are considering walking in this area:
– You are able to access many of the highlights by doing day trips from El Chalten. If the weather is fine however, it is really worthwhile camping out in the area as the sunsets and sunrises make it really worthwhile.
– March is an excellent time to walk in this area. The weather was stable, the wind negligible and the lenga forest (southern beech) was in full autumn colours
– The options for food shopping at El Chalten are really limited. The supermarket was virtually devoid of stock most of the time and they do not cater for walkers. There are a few smaller shops that offer some options but it would be best to buy supplies from El Calafate before you arrive.
– Bus travel between Puerto Natales, El Calafate and El Chalten is quite good although it’s best to book ahead to ensure you get a seat on the day you want.
– El Chalten does not have a working ATM and in El Calafate you can only withdraw a maximum of about $200 AUS with a fee of $9 per withdrawal. It may be better to bring US dollars in cash and exchange them at the bank.
– The campgrounds are free and no bookings are required (2017) but they are very basic with drop toilets, water from the stream and no cooking shelters. Entry to the national park is also free.
– There are other walks within the park that were recommended to us when we were there, such as the Huemel circuit. On this walk you need to cross streams on a flying fox (a harness needs be rented from the stores in El Chalten to do this) but this track is highly rated and much less busy than the other trails.
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