Friday 16/02/2024   Maria Island Ferry Terminal – Frenchs Farm Coastal Route – Rutherford Beach – Painted Cliffs – Hopground Beach –  Darlington – Reservoir Circuit – Fossil Cliffs Circuit – Fossil Cliffs – Maria Island Cemetery – Darlington

                                     Maria Island, lutruwita / TASMANIA 

                                     Puthikwilayti Country                                  

Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report)

We enjoyed a day trip to Maria Island, leaving on the first boat in the morning (8:30am) and returning on the last ferry of the day (4:15pm). We had stayed here six years ago for a few days but we were keen to see the island and its wildlife again.

Download file: 20240216.gpx                         Track Info

 

It was another spectacular day on this Tasmanian trip which had delivered day after day of sunny pleasant weather. We were all advised by the National Parks staff to head to the Painted Cliffs as it was low tide at the time of our arrival. We headed down there with most of the boatload and while it was busy we were able to enjoy the incredible coloured sandstone cliffs and take lots of photos.

By the time we finished with the cliffs the the water was looking very inviting so we took a dip in the water at Hopground Beach. Surprisingly, the water was not cold but crystal clear and made for a lovely swim. After drying off and dressing we made our way towards Darlington when we saw a group of wombats feeding on the dry grass. Most of the grass looked almost dead and extremely short, so we feared for their food supply. The wombats were digging and feeding on the grass roots as well. They were unperturbed by the people who had stopped to watch and photograph them. The Maria Island wombats are quite blonde and look in good health. Rain is desperately needed to ensure their survival.

We didn’t see any Tasmanian Devils today, which was not surprising as they are mainly nocturnal. Devils free of the deadly facial tumour disease were relocated to the island about a year ago. The devils have thrived and are breeding well but unfortunately, the numbers of Cape Barron Geese and Shearwaters have decreased. They are after all carnivorous marsupials.

We stopped for lunch before heading to the Fossil Cliffs. These cliffs are virtually made of fossils such is their number within the rock. The fossils are mainly of marine shells dating back 290 million years. It’s quite something to see. We then wandered back to near the jetty with an hour to spare so we called in at the campground as we had friends staying there. We had a catch up and Steve took some pics of wallabies resting under the shade of the trees. Before long it was time to head to the ferry for the 30-minute crossing back to Tribunna. It was a great day spent on a special island.

Photos

 

Geri’s Dairy Entry for the Day

“Big day out on Maria Island today. went down to the wharf at 8:15am. Picked up a loaf of bread for Trish at supermarket on the way. She, Dave and Nick were on Maria Island for 3 days – they had run out of bread -Trish said she forgot how much Nick ate!

Power or internet went down when we were checking in so there was a bit of confusion but everyone eventually got boarding passes and ferry set off, only a few minutes late.

Beautiful day – calm crossing. John and I took our bikes which was an excellent way to see a bit more of the island. We made it down to encampment cove where we had lunch. We had a few stops on the way. had 1. drop of bread for Trish in locker 13 as they already left to walk up Bishop and Clerk, an 11 km climb.

2. painted cliffs – spectacular geology, lines shapes and colours.

3. Return Point – a very sandy track down to a point where another couple said there were plenty of wombats —we didn’t see any.

4. 4 Mile beach – a beautiful white sand, turquoise blue watered, and inlet of 4 Mile beach French’s Farm with shearing shed 6. Encampment Core Returned the same way as were told the inland route was pretty rugged. On our return to Darlington we proceeded to Fossil cliffs, briefly, where we were a bit rushed and it was 3.30 pm and ferry was due at 4.15 pm.

Ferry was a bit late so we had time to look in the info centre, photograph some mere wombats nearly and say farewell to Nick and Trish, who turned up to say goodbye. 

Wildlife seen today – fair-haired wombats, pademelon, black-faced Shags, Pacific gull with a flounder in its beak, a dead swift parrot (such beautiful colours, such a shame), red anenomes, Cape Barren geese, two very large shelf fungi, an orange one being eaten by many orange, bluish and black beetles, Thornbills (Tassie or brown), yellow-rumped Thornbuls, Tasmanian native hen, dusky woodswallow, chestnut teals, scarlet robin”

 

Information on Parks Tasmania signage along the way

The Fossil Cliffs

In the cliffs behind you and in the large rocks around you, lie the fossilised remains of millions of sea creatures. It is difficult to imagine what this place would have been like when they were alive, about 290 million years ago.

By studying the rock and the fossils, geologists can tell us that the sea creatures lived in a very cold, shallow marine environment when it was part of a large land mass called Gondwana.

After millions of years, the Earth’s crust rose and changed the shape of the land over a long period of time. The uplifted land was then eroded by the sea over many thousands of years, forming these dramatic cliffs and revealing ancient secrets embedded within their walls.

About the rock…

The dark grey rock containing the fossils consists of alternating beds of fossil-rich limestone and siltstone, It is estimated to be about 16 metres thick.

In the 1920s the limestone was mined and used for cement production. The platform you stand upon was formed by the quarrying activities, and evidence of the tramway used to transport the limestone to the cement works can still be seen.

Finding the fossils…

These fossil sketches will help you locate the common species and the descriptions will help you get to know them.

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE ANY FOSSILS – they are protected within this national park and are of no value once they are removed.]

As you look for fossils, you may notice some rocks which look like they don’t belong and are different in colour to the fossil rich limestone. These are called dropstones. It is thought that when the sea creatures were alive, the sea was covered by pack ice. Sea water froze on beaches and against cliffs during winter. In the spring, the ice with the enclosed rock fragments broke off and floated out to sea as pack ice. The pack ice carried the rock fragments until it melted and dropped them to the sea floor. In this way, most of the dropstones found here, mainly quartzite and granite, were transported from other places on Maria Island or nearby.

And the view…

If you’re here on a fine day, you can see Schouten Island, which lies to the south of Freycinet Peninsula straight ahead, mainland Tasmania to your left, and the summit of Bishop and Clerk to your right.

Eurydesma (pronounced: you-ree-des-mar)

Eurydesma is an ancient clam and is the most common fossil here. It is so prolific in some rocks, that its broken shells make up nearly all of the rock. Like modern clams, it lived attached to the sea floor, and fed by filtering small food particles from water which it pumped through its body. Try and find an unbroken Eurydesma fossil.

Deltopecten

Deltopecten greatly resembles modern scallops. They are easily recognised by their distinctive ribbed shells. Deltopecten lived on the sea floor except for short spells of jerky swimming. They feed by filtering small food particles from the water while resting on the sea floor. You can’t miss these!

Trigonotreta (try-gon-oh-treeta)

Trigonotreta would have lived attached to the sea floor by a muscular tube. They caught small food particles on a feathery ribbon, which was attached to their body inside their shell, as they pumped sea water through their shell cavity. At first glance, Trigonotreta look a little like a scallop, but they’re smaller and their hinges and rib patterning are different.

Stenopora (steno-pora)

Stenopora’s nearest living relatives are moss animals, which look like small shrubs growing on the sea floor. Like fenestellids, they were suspension feeding colonies of animals. Look for patterns like small strings of beads along one centimetre wide branches.

Fenestellids (fen-e-stellids)

Fenestellids are very similar to sea fans of modern seas. They had radiating branches with minute pores on them, each pore occupied by an individual animal. These intricate colonies of animals were suspension feeders, attaching themselves to shell fragments or rocks on the sea floor, and catching passing food from the water with their protruding tentacles. Look for a beaded, net-like, branching pattern.

 

The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, indigenous history, white history and other walks in the area (Gemini)

 Maria Island, a jewel nestled off the east coast of Tasmania, boasts a captivating tapestry of landscapes, geological marvels, and cultural narratives. Its 115 sq km expanse encompasses dramatic dolerite cliffs, towering columns, secluded bays, sweeping beaches, and verdant forests, whispering tales of indigenous connection, colonial legacy, and contemporary conservation efforts.

A Geological Showcase: From Gondwana to Dolerite Dramas

 Maria Island’s geological story dates back millions of years when it formed part of the ancient supercontinent Gondwana. The island’s bedrock primarily comprises Permo-Carboniferous dolerite, a fine-grained igneous rock responsible for the island’s characteristic columns and dramatic cliffs. These dolerite formations, sculpted by weathering and erosion, have yielded iconic landmarks like the dramatic Fossil Cliffs, Zeugen (lone columns), and the Tessellated Pavement, a mesmerizing display of polygonal dolerite blocks.

 Further enriching the geological tapestry are remnants of Permian sedimentary rocks, including mudstone, sandstone, and conglomerate, exposed in the eastern parts of the island. These sedimentary layers harbour a wealth of fossils, offering a glimpse into Tasmania’s ancient past.

A Scenic Spectacle: From Pristine Beaches to Rugged Cliffs

 Maria Island’s scenic beauty is undeniable. Pristine white sand beaches like Darlington Beach and Riedle Bay beckon with their turquoise waters, while dramatic dolerite cliffs, sculpted by the relentless power of the ocean, offer breathtaking panoramas.

 The island’s interior is adorned with lush forests, dominated by eucalypts, banksias, and sheoaks, teeming with birdlife and providing refuge for native fauna. The dramatic peaks of Bishop and Clerk, dolerite remnants piercing the sky, provide further scenic highlights, especially at sunset or sunrise.

A Botanical Bounty: From Diverse Forests to Coastal Heaths

 Maria Island is a haven for diverse flora, boasting over 800 plant species. The island’s forests, classified as dry sclerophyll and wet sclerophyll, are home to an array of eucalypts, including blackbutt, stringybark, and white gum. Banksias, wattles, and sheoaks add splashes of colour to the forest tapestry, while the understory boasts an array of ferns, mosses, and wildflowers.

 Coastal areas are dominated by heathland communities, showcasing plants like coastal rosemary, tea-tree, and cushion plants, adapted to the harsh coastal winds and salt spray. Rocky crevices provide havens for unique flora like samphires and sea succulents.

A Fauna Paradise: From Wombats to Penguins

 Maria Island is a sanctuary for diverse fauna, boasting over 200 bird species, 30 mammal species, and numerous reptiles and amphibians. Among the island’s iconic inhabitants are the endangered eastern quolls, brushtail possums, pademelons, and the ubiquitous wombats, often spotted grazing in grasslands or ambling along walking tracks.

 Little penguins, the smallest penguin species in the world, nest on the island’s eastern shores, while raptors like wedge-tailed eagles and white-bellied sea eagles soar overhead. The surrounding waters teem with marine life, with dolphins, seals, and whales occasionally gracing visitors with their presence.

A Timeless Narrative: Indigenous Connection and European Encounters

 Maria Island has been home to the Oyster Bay Tribe, also known as the Puthikwilayti, for over 40,000 years. Their deep connection to the island is reflected in numerous archaeological sites, including middens, stone tools, and rock art. These remnants whisper stories of their sustainable lifestyle, cultural practices, and intimate understanding of the island’s resources.

 European encounters with Maria Island began in the early 1800s, marked by convict settlements, farming ventures, and whaling activities. The island served as a convict probation station and later housed a female convict prison, leaving behind remnants of this period in the form of convict-built structures and cemeteries.

Following its Convict Past: Conservation and Contemporary Significance

 Following its convict past, Maria Island transitioned into a national park in 1971, marking a significant shift towards conservation and ecological restoration. Extensive efforts have been undertaken to eradicate introduced species like rabbits and goats, allowing native flora and fauna to flourish. Today, the island serves as a critical refuge for endangered species and a living laboratory for conservation research.

 Beyond its natural significance, Maria Island holds cultural and historical value. The convict-era relics, including the convict-built penitentiary and Commandant’s House, stand as stark reminders of the island’s complex past. Additionally, the ongoing efforts of the Oyster Bay Tribe to reclaim their traditional lands and cultural heritage add another layer of significance to the island’s narrative.

Walking the Tracks of Time: Exploring Maria Island’s Diverse Trails

 Maria Island offers a diverse range of walking tracks, catering to all fitness levels and interests. The most popular track is the 4.5 km return Fossil Cliffs walk, which leads past towering dolerite columns and fascinating fossils embedded in the cliffs. For a shorter stroll, the 1.2 km return Riedle Bay walk offers stunning coastal views and a chance to spot little penguins.

 For those seeking a more challenging hike, the 11 km return Bishop and Clerk summit track rewards with panoramic vistas from the island’s highest peaks. The dramatic dolerite formations and diverse vegetation along the way make this trek a truly enriching experience.

 Beyond these established tracks, Maria Island also boasts numerous shorter walks and historical trails, each offering unique insights into the island’s natural and cultural tapestry. The Fossil Cove walk, for example, delves into the island’s geological history, while the Haunted Hills track explores remnants of the convict era.

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