2/07/2019 – 9/07/2019 Baltra – Santa Cruz – Floreana – Espanola – San Cristobal – Santa Fe – Sombrero Chino – Bartolome – James (Santiago) – Rabida – Seymour Island – Baltra
Galapagos Islands, ECUADOR
Participants: Alfredo Banguera (Chef), Cifredo Banguera (Bartender), Enrique Briones (Engineer), Jose Caicedo (Captain), Anavi Chitnis, Jay Chitnis, Maritza Chitnis, Chitnis, Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report), Morris Garcia (Guide & Naturalist), Greg Kato, Jeremy Kato, Ryan Kato, Janet Lindsley, Melissa Mccarthy, Arnaldo Muñoz (First Mate), Roberto Pazmiño (Dingy Pilot), Charlie Vandel, Ellie Vandel, Stuart Vandel
The Galapagos Islands are a bucket list destination for many people, us included. These volcanic islands which are part of the Republic of Ecuador straddle the equator nearly 1,000km west of continental Ecuador. The convergence of three major oceanic currents brings an incredible mix of marine life to these islands. The islands are estimated to be between 3 to 10 million years old.
Access is by air from Quito via Guayaquil. The islands are known for their large number of endemic species that were studied by Charles Darwin and which led him to formulate his theory of evolution through natural selection, published in 1859.
The Galapagos National Park and the Galapagos Marine Reserve are carefully managed by the Ecuadorian Government, visitor numbers are limited and a $US100 entry fee applies. The only islands that can be visited without a guide are Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Isabela and Floreana.
More than 25,000 people live on the islands. In 1959 the Government of Ecuador declared all uninhabited areas of Galapagos a national park. In 1978 UNESCO designated Galapagos the first World Heritage site and the Galapagos Marine Reserve received the same status in 1998.
Day 1: Tuesday 2/07/2019 Baltra – Santa Cruz – Floreana
Travel!
Max elevation: 247 m
Total climbing: 7 m
Total descent: -10 m
Average speed: 0.00 km/h
We were picked up at 6:30am from our hotel in Quito for transport to the airport before flying to Baltra via Guayaquil. This trip took several hours.
El Chato Ranch
Morris, our guide met us at the airport in Baltra where we caught a bus (15mins) and then took a short ferry ride to the island of Santa Cruz. It was a further 30 minutes on the bus to our first stop, El Chato Ranch, a private ecological reserve which is teeming with ancient Galapagos Giant Tortoises. The vegetation on the coast was arid with cacti, however, as we travelled higher towards the centre of the island it became lush and green.
Giant Tortoise (Chelonoidis porteri) on Santa Cruz Island
We enjoyed a three course lunch before going on a walk to view theGalapagos Giant Tortoises, walking around slowly feeding on grass (it takes two weeks to digest!) and resting in the “spa”. They were everywhere having recently completed their long journey from the coast. We walked through a lava tube, the islands being of volcanic origin.
We then returned to the bus to travel to the other side of the island and then by dingy to finally reach our boat, the Samba.
We enjoyed a lovely dinner before motoring at night to the island of Floreana. It was quite rough during the night but everyone coped just fine!
Day 2: Wednesday 3/07//2019 Floreana
The Fun Begins!
Punta Cormorant Walk
Max elevation: 247 m
Total climbing: 7 m
Total descent: -10 m
Average speed: 0.00 km/h
We had an early start, up at 5:30am ready to leave at 6:00am. We travelled by dingy for a wet landing on the island of Floreana. Almost straight away we saw seals lazing on the beach and several Blue Footed Boobies displaying nesting behaviour. Watching the males dancing slowly to emphasise it’s blue feet to the female, as well as arching it’s wings and giving sticks as a gift. It was really something else! A juvenile was crying and begging to be fed. The Blue Footed Boobies feed exclusively on sardines which have been extensively commercially fished. Ecuadorians now avoid eating canned sardines as they were in effect competing with Blue Footed Boobies for food.
Blue-Footed Booby (Sula nebouxii) – Punta Cormorant, Isla Floreana
Next to the flamingos! We watched them feeding with their curved bills scooping out shrimp from the water. Their colour comes from the algae that the shrimp feed on.
We then walked to the white sandy beach with a rock wall covered with Sally Lightfoot Crabs. The adults were red and multi coloured, the juveniles a darker colour. We observed some diamond sting rays in the shallow water. Other species observed included the Galapagos Painted Locust, the Great Blue Heron, the Frigate Bird (always keen for a free meal) and the petite Yellow Warbler.
Champion Rock Snorkel
We returned to the boat for a hearty breakfast and then to get ready for our first snorkelling excursion. The boat motored to Champion Rock where we jumped into the deep blue water with a bit of swell running. The seas were teeming with a large variety of fish including King Angel Fish, Parrot Fish, Leather Bass, Butterfly Fish, White Tipped Reef Shark, sea turtles and chocolate chip star fish. We had a wonderful time swimming with inquisitive sea lions in a very close encounter.
Snorkelling with sea turtles and sea lions off Champion Rock
Post Office Bay Walk
After lunch we visited Post Office Bay which has a post box that has been operational since the 1700s. The whalers used to bring letters from home to the settlement and help to deliver the mail from the whalers on their return journey. This practice is still occurring and you can check your mail here and take some to deliver in your home area.
Sorting the mail at Post Office Bay, Isla Floreana
Post Office Bay Snorkel
Next we had a shallow dive with turtles. These laid back creatures are not bothered by our presence and keep munching on sea grass unperturbed.
Post Office Bay snorkelling
Post Office Bay Kayak
Max elevation: 11 m
Total climbing: 22 m
Total descent: -22 m
Average speed: nan km/h
After a short turn around it was time for our choice of kayaking or SUPs. The afternoon sun was just coming out and our paddling was accompanied but more inquisitive seals, sea turtles and a variety of bird life including a Blue Footed Booby. At one stage I thought I was coming close to rocks only to realise I had a sea lion on one side and a turtle on the other.
Sue kayaking in Post Office Bay, Isla Floreana
To complete the day we beached the kayaks and hiked up to a lookout where one of the early settlers wanted to start a nudist hotel for rich people. Looking down on the shimmering water of the bay we could see small heads poking up, lots of turtles and seals.
Our dingy ride back to the Samba was right at sunset. It was a fitting end to a great day.
Day 3: Thursday 4/07/2019 Espanola island
Being in a David Attenborough Documentary
Punta Suarez Walk
Max elevation: 16 m
Total climbing: 24 m
Total descent: -24 m
Average speed: nan km/h
It was another early start for us, breakfast at 5:30am, leaving at 6:15am to see the animals at their best. We caught the dingy to Espanola Island for a three hour walk.
Soon after landing we saw our first pile of Marine Iguanas. These are the only Marine Iguanas in the world, they spit out salt and they sleep on top of each other, being reptiles, to maintain their body heat.
Marine Iguana (Amblyrhychus cristatus) – Punta Suarez, Isla Espanola
Continuing along we were privileged to see Waved Albatross pairs performing intimate mating rituals. They pair for life but may mate with other partners. You could almost hear David Attenborough talking in the background!
We saw Galapagos Mocking Birds who are keen for water, Blue Footed Boobies, Red Billed Tropic Birds, Nazca Boobies, Brown Pelicans, Galapagos Doves, Lava Lizards and of course Sea Lions.
We continued walking until the sea cliffs where we stopped to enjoy the prolific wildlife around us. Albatross were gliding above us soaring on the thermals with an array of other birds. We continued on towards a rocky beach for more iguanas, seals and boobies. There was a nesting area for albatross where we observed more mating behaviours. A Blue Footed Booby was nesting on eggs.
We walked back to our pick up point being careful not to stand on the wildlife which seemed to be everywhere! We watched Marine Iguanas take to the water to swim and sea lions trying to escape the sun in the shade of rocks.
Gardner Bay Snorkel
After a short break it was time to go snorkelling. The water was a beautiful clean blue colour and for our first dip we saw many different star fish. We visited three different locations including a beautiful cove ringed by volcanic rock. A few Sea Lions came out to play before we headed back to the boat for lunch.
Snorkelling off Isla Espanola (Hood Island)
Gardner Bay Walk
Max elevation: 15 m
Total climbing: 36 m
Total descent: -36 m
Average speed: 1.80 km/h
Total time: 03:02:45
The afternoon activity was a walk and explore along a beautiful white sandy beach littered with Sea Lions. The mockingbirds remained ever hopeful. None of the animals seem to fear humans so they often approach us. A Sea Lion swam the length of the beach accompanying us as we walked.
Day 4: Friday 5/07/2019 San Cristobal
The Rock
Leon Dormido Rock Deep Water Snorkel
We had a peaceful non-motoring night and everyone seemed to sleep well. Early morning brought us to the imposing split Leon Dormido (Sleeping Lion) Rock. Just after sunrise we were in the water snorkelling the channel between the rocks with 100m of sheer rock to either side. We were on the lookout for all types of sharks here and we saw many white and black tipped reef sharks as well as juveniles (up to 7 to 10 years).
Sunrise through Roca Leon Dormido
There were also many Green Sea Turtles and a friendly pair of Sea Lions joined us as we swam around the outside of the massive rock. Every now and again it was good to look up and observe the sheer walls with sea birds gliding through the air. Below the water the rock was like a sea garden with sea grass, seaweed and a multitude of small creatures living in and around it. At times there were many small bioluminescent jelly fish floating past.
There were thick schools of Yellow Tailed Surgeon Fish and the Cleaner Fish were busy at work.
Some of us became really cold and opted for an early return to the Samba. Who would have thought that the waters this close to the equator would be relatively cold (about 20 Celsius). Back on board the captain took a scenic route around the rock so we could enjoy it from every angle in the soft morning light. A hearty breakfast followed.
Snorkelling with a variety of fish species, sea turtles and sea lions (with one doing a little fishing)
Punta Pitt Snorkel
Next we motored to Punta Pitt with its tall volcanic cliffs and sandy beach. We had the option of another snorkel here so most of us decided to get wet again. There were a variety of tropical fish, including the unusual looking Pampano Acerado or Steel Pompano (almost translucent with a stick like tail), a sting ray resting on the sandy bottom and an eagle ray floating by. We motored a short distance and hopped in again to enjoy the schools of fish swimming around us.
Punta Pitt Walk
Max elevation: 72 m
Total climbing: 243 m
Total descent: -251 m
Average speed: 2.78 km/h
Total time: 01:55:29
Snorkelling with sting rays, lobster and many fish species off San Cristobal Island near Punta Pitt
It was back to the boat for our standard three course lunch, a short break and then a hike. It was a wet landing before put ting on our hiking shoes for a hike amongst the volcanic formations. On the sides of the cliffs were growing small green trees, Galapagos Bonsai Trees. As we climbed higher we saw more nesting Blue Footed Boobies, Red Footed Boobies, Brown Pelicans and finches which responded to our guide’s call (learnt from his grandmother). We also saw spouting Sperm Whales off in the distance.
Blue Footed Booby chick (Sula nebouxii) with parent
At sunset we were treated to a pod of dolphins having a great time surfing our bow waves.
Day 5: Saturday 6/07/2019 Santa Fe
Inside a Volcanic Caldera
Santa Fe Island Walk
Max elevation: 21 m
Total climbing: 43 m
Total descent: -51 m
Average speed: 3.21 km/h
Total time: 01:49:57
During the night we motored to the island of Santa Fe where we awoke moored inside an old water filled crater. We left early to be on the beach soon after sunrise. We lingered by the beach where there was a sea lion colony. Many juveniles had been left by their mums who were out fishing for food. One baby was amusing itself with a rock, playing with it just like a toddler. Many were just calling out for their mothers.
Galapagos Sea Lion (Zalophus wollebaeki) – Isla Santa Fe
We saw a Galapagos Hawk and Blue Footed Boobies swooping and diving for sardines in a pack before walking to see land iguanas and 250 year old cactus plants which take 50 years before flowering. The males iguanas are very territorial and do not provide the females with any food, survival of the fittest. There were Mocking Birds eating the precious cactus flowers, the iguanas only eat about every three weeks and they have to wait for the fruit to fall. We also saw Red Beaked Tropic Birds and Galapagos Finches.
Bahia Pescador Snorkel
The rest of the morning was spent snorkelling in the volcanic crater at Bahia Pescador.
We rode the dingy out to our snorkelling spot and jumped into the “fresh” water. We saw lots of schools of fish including Yellow Tailed Sturgeon Fish, Parrot Fish, King Angelfish, a White Tipped Reef Shark and the Brilliant Damsel Fish, deep blue with iridescent spots (juvenile). The Sea Lions were keen to play and there were often several around us at once, ducking, diving and weaving very close to us.
Snorkelling off Santa Fe (South Plaza) Island
Kayak
Then it was time to hit the water again for a choice of kayaking or standup paddle-boarding. It was very pleasant cruising through the clear waters spotting wildlife as we went. We saw many White Tipped Reef Sharks, Eagle Rays and of course Sea Lions on the shore and in the water. A Brown Pelican was flapping around, cleaning its wings in the water.
Sea lions on the beach at Barrington Bay, Santa Fe Island
South Plaza Island Walk
Max elevation: 27 m
Total climbing: 81 m
Total descent: -84 m
Average speed: 2.61 km/h
Total time: 01:25:35
After lunch we motored to South Plaza Island (the smallest visited island at only 0.13 square kilometres) for an afternoon walk.
Here we went for a wander through the volcanic landscape with large prickly pear cacti. Almost immediately after arriving we saw several land iguanas feasting on some fallen fleshy pieces of the cactus plant. Cactus Finches also feed on these plants. Of course Seal Lions frequented the shores and there was a bachelor pad high on the cliffs. We saw the only Nocturnal Sea Gulls in the world who spend quite a lot of time looking at their feet during the day, asleep. They travel long distances at night in search of food.
Galapagos Land Iguana (Conoliphus subcristatus) – Isla Plaza Sur
We saw many Red Billed Tropic Birds returning to their cliff nests and the ever present Frigate Birds. We followed the circular path around the island being careful not to step on wildlife!
Our departure from the wharf required us to negotiate past iguanas, lizards and several sea lions that had settled in on the wharf.
Then after dinner there was a highly anticipated soccer match at night against another boat, the Beagle.
South Plaza Island Walk Photos
Day 6: Sunday 7/07/2019 Sombrero Chino to Bartolome
Swimming with Penguins, Sharks and Octopus
Sombrero Chino Island Walk
Max elevation: 12 m
Total climbing: 160 m
Total descent: -202 m
Average speed: 3.92 km/h
Total time: 01:45:45
The crew started motoring about 4:00am and by sunrise we were cruising past a volcanic crater lake inhabited by flamingos. We continued on to reach the island known as Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat), landing on a white sandy beach which had the usual Sea Lion greeting party. We saw a two week old baby Sea Lion and many Sally Lightfoot Crabs.
Fur Seal (arctocepahuls galapagoensis) – Sombrero Chino
The landscape was volcanic in origin with lava tubes and the dark rock contrasted with the red and green foliage. There were coral remnants on the beach. There were many Marine Iguanas which looked like statues. A Brown Pelican was resting by the shore.
Sombrero Chino Island Walk Photos
Sombrero Chino Island Snorkel
After several people jumped off the bow of the boat, including the captain, we started our snorkel in search of Galapagos Penguins. We didn’t need to wait long. A busy penguin was hunting for small fish as it swam around us, unperturbed by our presence.
During this hour long dive we saw a great variety of marine life including Garden and Moray Eels, White Tipped Sharks, octopus, Eagle Rays, Trumpet Fish, dense schools of Creole Fish, Chocolate Chip Star Fish, Gulf Star and many other varieties of star fish. The captain picked up an octopus and held it on his arm. We also saw penguins resting on the rocky shores. A pelican swooped at a fish just in front of my head. The sun had come out and the water clarity was wonderful but the water temperature was still only 20 degrees. It was our best snorkel of the trip so far.
Snorkelling with Galapagos Penguins, Garden and Moray Eels, White Tipped Sharks, octopus, Eagle Rays, Trumpet Fish, dense schools of Creole Fish, Chocolate Chip Star Fish, Gulf Star and many other varieties of star fish
Bartolome Isand Snorkel
During lunch we motored to Bartolome Isand where we jumped into the water again to swim with penguins, sea slugs, small flounder resting on the sandy bottom, sharks resting under rock ledges, Eagle Ray, a large Sea Lion, Moray Eels, the squarish Pacific Box Fish, Trumpet Fish and a variety of tropical fish, King Angel Fish, Tuna, Barracuda, Yellow Snapper, Giant Damselfish, Hawkfish, bi-coloured Parrot Fish, Streamer Hogfish, Rainbow Wrasse, Sunset Wrasse, Soldier Fish, Red Tailed Trigger Fish, Reef Cornet Fish and octopus as well! There were many varieties of starfish doing their thing on the sandy bottom.
Bartolome Island Snorkel Photos
Bartolome Isand Walk
Max elevation: 86 m
Total climbing: 148 m
Total descent: -138 m
Average speed: 3.24 km/h
Total time: 01:17:03
After a short turn around we were headed for a hike to the top of an extinct lava cone.
The walk is on boardwalk for the entire 600m route, to preserve the fragile volcanic tuff cone surface. The landscape was stark with old lava flows were evident. We saw the lovely Lava Cactus and tuffs of Lava Grass on an otherwise bare reddish brown surface. There were a number of spatter cones with mini craters within them. We saw some lava “bombs” large pieces of lava that are remarkably light. The scenery as stark and moonscape like. On our climb I saw large splashes in the water which was apparently Manta Rays cleaning themselves.
Volcanic cones on Bartolome Island
The wind really picked up as we reached the summit but the view was fantastic. We were able to see many different islands and Bartolome Pinnacle Rock (70m high) near where we snorkelled earlier above a pristine blue cove lined by a copper coloured beach. Classic Galapagos!
We headed back to the boat as the sun was setting. Another wonderful day in paradise. At night we saw Nocturnal Sea Gulls flying alongside the boat.
Day 7: Monday 8/07/2019 James (Santiago) Island to Rabida
Black and Red Sand Beaches
James Bay Walk
Max elevation: 94 m
Total climbing: 104 m
Total descent: -25 m
Average speed: 3.15 km/h
Total time: 02:21:29
We landed for an early start on the black sand beach. Sea Lions greeted as per usual. We walked along the black volcanic coastline observing Lava Heron, Brown Pelicans, American Oystercatchers, Lava Gulls, Galapagos Doves, Sandy Lightfoot Crabs, Marine Iguana sunbaking and a huge sea bird (including Boobies) feeding frenzy just off shore.
Brown Pelican (Pelecanus accidentalis) – Isla Santiago
We then reached a series of lava pools and “Darwin’s Toilet” complete with flushing. The pools were interconnected and the Fur Seals were swimming between them.
On the return journey to the boat we saw Land Iguanas and lizards. Morris’ attempt to find a scorpion under a rock was not successful.
James Bay Snorkel
After breakfast and a short break it was time to snorkel in James Bay. First, however there was jumping to do from the boat. There were several worthy dives but Captain Jose showed everyone how it was done by jumping from the top level of the boat. What a legend! Several others followed.
We went in a zodiac to the shallow waters. Here we snorkelled with many turtles, fish, octopus changing colour with different backgrounds, swam with a Marine Iguanas, a large Sea Lion with a huge school of fish and small anemone retracting in response to our presence. At the end we had several of the biggest Sea Lions we had seen ducking and weaving around us. And it wasn’t even lunch time yet. Back on board the boat and motoring, it’s gentle rocking some of us nodding off for a short nap. All this activity is tiring!
Boat diving followed by snorkelling at James Bay off Santiago Island with turtles, fish, a Sea Lion with a huge school of fish and small anemone retracting in response to our presence
Rabida Island Snorkel
Next was our final snorkel. We spent some time on the zodiac looking for Manta Ray without luck. We decided to jump in close to the shore and explore the shallow waters. Here we saw turtles, starfish, the usual array of fish in huge schools darting around. Turtles and an Eagle Ray and some creature living in a conche shell. There were very deep rock walls under water teeming with a variety of fish, stonefish, wrasse staying tight against the rock walls and a White Tipped Shark. Hot chocolate and yucca bread was waiting for us after our dive, sadly our last for the trip.
Snorkelling with turtles, many fish species, an octopus changing colour with different backgrounds, Marine Iguanas and Sea Lions
Snorkelling off Santiago Island with starfish, white tipped reef sharks, octopus, shrimp, eels, penguins on land and in the water
Rabida Island Walk
Max elevation: 28 m
Total climbing: 41 m
Total descent: -59 m
Average speed: 2.61 km/h
Total time: 01:09:38
However, there was still time for a final hike in the afternoon sun. We went by zodiac to a red sand beach, coloured from the oxidation of the iron rich lava that has eroded into fine grained sand. It was scenically quite beautiful against the blue sea, complete with Seal Lions on the shore of course. We headed away from the beach past a band of mangroves to a saltwater lagoon just behind the beach. Here we were lucky enough to see Flamingos and Galapagos Ducks feeding.
Our group on Isla Rabida
From here we walked up to a high point for views of the cove on the other side. Cacti were the common species here, in all shapes and sizes including one plant clinging to the cliff. We saw large schools of mullet feeding close to the surface. A short walk back to the beach and the Samba was waiting for us. Another very full, enjoyable day.
In the evening we had a cocktail party for our final night. There was a soccer match later, crew vs tourists.
Day 8: Tuesday 9/07/2019 Seymour Island – Baltra
Bird island
Seymour Island Walk
Max elevation: 12 m
Total climbing: 11 m
Total descent: -13 m
Average speed: 2.11 km/h
Total time: 01:09:29
We enjoyed an early morning walk to Seymour Island to see nesting birds. As we walked around we saw more pairs of Blue Footed Boobies dancing, the male giving the female presents of sticks and the incredible display of the male Frigate Bird attempting to attract a mate. The male needs to build a good nest then he sits on it and inflates a large bright red pouch under it’s beak to attract females flying above. We observed a single Frigate Bird who wasn’t having much luck attracting the ladies as despite having an impressive pouch his nest was not very good so no females were interested. It was a sad sight.
Male Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens), Isla Seymour Norte
As we continued walking around we saw so many nests, the Frigate Birds have only one chick and their nests are very close together. We saw a Galapagos Dove nesting in a cactus. Frigate Birds were almost thick in the air and there were some Sea Lions lazing around. It was a great final shore excursion.
Charles Darwin Research Station
After disembarking the Samba and checking into our land based accommodation in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island we had one last excursion with Morris and the rest of our party, a visit to Charles Darwin Research Station on the edge of Puerto Ayora. This is an active breeding, research and education centre. It includes a number of information display locations which would be useful if you came without you own expert guide, thanks Morris!
Charles Darwin Research Station Photos
Summing Up
We felt privileged to see the Galapagos Islands on the Samba and to do a water based trip (as opposed to a land based trip involving travel to the islands each day). While a water based trip is more expensive, the true value is in being in the water or on the beach to observe the wildlife at the best time (at first light), without hordes of other people. On most occasions, we were able to enjoy activities without any other tourists around. A water based trip is also better environmentally due to less travel back and forth each day. By travelling on a small boat like the Samba whose crew were local Ecuadorians, we were also contributing to the local community rather than the profits going to large off shore multinational corporations that tend to own the larger ships. Our wonderful guide, Morris was a third generation from the Galapagos who had studied Ecology abroad before returning to his local area to work. His extensive knowledge enhanced our experience immensely. We followed the South-East Island itinerary and are keen to go back in a few years to do the North-West. It was that good!
The Samba crew with the young ones at Seymour
For more information check out Classic Active Galapagos on the Samba.
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