2/08/2016 – 6/08/2016 Southern Alps Lodge – Charlotte Pass
Kosciuszko National Park, NSW
Ngarigo country
Distance: 78km Total Ascent: 3150m Total Descent: 3150m Time: 25 hours
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report, Photos)
Day 1: Tuesday 2/08/2016 Southern Alps Lodge – Mount Stilwell circuit
Max elevation: 2080 m
Total climbing: 566 m
Total descent: -555 m
Average speed: 6.11 km/h
Total time: 03:05:00
We spent the morning doing a couple of runs up beside the trees next to the downhill runs. There had been about 10cm fresh snowfall yesterday and overnight, so we had two great, if not cautious runs down amongst the trees before retreating back to the lodge for lunch.
After our long leisurely break we ventured out again, this time heading down the valley with no real plans. A sign containing a map of the local trails saw us head off on the Mount Stilwell circuit under an overcast sky. We had very pleasant skiing up the valley before heading across higher ground with a mixed bag of conditions varying between wind exposed icy sections and powdery pockets, sustrugi and all the usual mid winter varieties.
Sue, overlooking Charlotte Pass resort
The higher southern section was very exposed today, with the wind at 40km/h and air temperature around zero, it felt very cold. After initially underestimating the distance of this section we were relieved to arrive back to the resort around 5:45pm. However, between the cloud and long shadows hanging over our descent we rather gingerly made our way across “the icefield” to grab a few telemarks down alongside the chairlift. We were pleased to be back to the lodge after covering a decent 15km on our first day of the season.
Day 2: Wednesday 3/08/2016 Southern Alps Lodge – Upper Snowy River return
Max elevation: 2075 m
Total climbing: 691 m
Total descent: -692 m
Average speed: 5.87 km/h
Total time: 05:16:06
We started the day by skirting around the perimeter of the resort along the road right up to the top of the chairlift. From here, our aim was the upper Snowy River where we hoped we might find a nice slope covered in a decent layer of snow (our endless dream!). As we progressed further and further the reality of winter snow conditions hit home. It is still, of course, fantastic to be out and passing along the upper Snowy River with its beautiful snow banks.
Snow banks on the Upper Snowy River
The wind was up a bit to 30km/h again and temperature of -2C gave a apparent temperature of -9C, which we really felt. Abandoning any hope of finding that perfect little hill to play on we ascended to Seamans Hut for a fairly quick lunch, as inside, although out of the wind was still too cool (6 degrees) to sit around in for very long.
Back out into the cold and wind we both made numerous attempts to get the clothing working properly. Jacket hoods pulling beanies down and forward across your eyes constantly tends to hinder forward progress.
We followed the Snowy River closely until it took a sharp left hand turn and descends towards the main valley, where we continued over the knoll in front of us and followed its edge to observe the river below. Before losing too much height we worked our way back to the pole line and our return to resort territory. Here again we snatched a bunch of telemark turns before returning to base after completing our 15km out and back trip.
Day 3: Thursday 4/08/2016 Southern Alps Lodge – Blue Lake return
Max elevation: 2018 m
Total climbing: 728 m
Total descent: -724 m
Average speed: 4.92 km/h
Total time: 05:44:04
We registered our trip destination as Blue Lake today, with the weather forecast and our early observations looking very promising for a great day.
We skied back along the road to the Pass before heading down towards the Snowy River crossing. Not keen on wet feet we looked upstream for evidence of snow bridges but from our hillside vantage point nothing substantial was visible. We did, however, see a group of three appear to rock hop easily across at the regular crossing so we followed their lead. Fortunately, all the snow between some of the rocks held and we were across in no time to meet two snowboarders and one downhill skier who were planning a three peak circuit for their day.
Sue and I headed straight up the ridge whilst our new companions snowshoed along the track line. By this stage the blue patches between the clouds had disappeared and the cloud level was lowering. It wasn’t too long before we were in it (the clouds that is) with greatly reduced visibility.
Cresting the ridge we saw our companions just behind us. After stopping and adding another layer of clothing they caught up. As this was their first attempt at Carruthers Peak they weren’t quite sure of the precise directions. After finding out they had no navigation gear with them (and recommending some) I described what lay ahead and suggested it might be a bad idea to head on up without reliable navigation.
The cloud continued to thicken and it wasn’t long before we were in whiteout conditions. The GPS was out frequently during the next couple of hours to verify our heading and progress. Skiing was very slow and cautious as for much of the time the only visible obstacles were the occasional rocks. The snow surface itself was so visually non descript we got to within about 2m of a couple of small cornices before being able to pick them out from their surrounds.
We were happy to reach the Blue Lake viewing platform, at least we then knew Blue Lake was close! From here we headed down to the end of the lake for lunch, taking some shelter from the cold wind in a depression behind a rock.
From here cautious progress was made downstream, using the GPS to make sure we didn’t end up in the creek or Headley Tarn by keeping to the right of both.
Half way down we passed through the cloud base. Whilst the lighting was still very flat we made much better progress than earlier. Dissecting the ridge that falls into the Snowy River we saw three figures on the other side working their way up towards the pass. It looked like our companions had made the correct decision after all.
Sue telemarking near Charlotte Pass
We grabbed a few good turns on the way back down to the crossing on probably the most consistent patch of snow we had encountered all day. A short climb back to the pass and a great downhill run saw us very happily back to the lodge by 3:00pm.
The downhill skiers who otherwise fully occupied the lodge see us as a real novelty. One even asked if we planned to donate our bodies to scientific research as he reckoned we were so fit!
Day 4: Friday 5/08/2016 Southern Alps Lodge – Albina Pass return
Max elevation: 2052 m
Total climbing: 609 m
Total descent: -572 m
Average speed: 6.32 km/h
Total time: 05:10:25
A magical calm -6C blue sky morning had us trying hard to ignore our accumulating fatigue from the last three days. With some effort we decided to head off towards Lake Albina for the day.
A quick slick run down the road had us heading uphill in almost no time. I even managed the climb san skins but not without a lot of concentration and slipping. Despite Sue having the same but slightly shorter Madshus Epoch skis she made it look, for the most part, effortless.
After crossing lots wind ridges along the Kosciuszko Road pole line we angled our way down towards the valley floor before basically following the north arm of the Snowy River until climbing up to Mueller Pass. Heavy sustrugi and icy patches near the pass along with clouds lurking about the peaks saw us lose any enthusiasm to venture any further.
A nice flat rock that we topped with a piece of foam was just big enough for us to sit back to back whilst we devoured our sandwiches. As there was a cold wind blowing across the saddle we didn’t linger any longer than necessary. A lone walker traversing the Mueller Peak ridge had been our first “encounter” of the day.
Shortly after commencing our return we crossed paths with a guy walking in crampons. He was starting out on a seven day Jagungal return adventure – no skis, just snowshoes and a home made sleigh attached to his backpack.
Sidling around Mount Northcote above “Muellers” Creek
Our return involved a gradual 6km downhill run around the lower flanks of Mount Northcote, Clarke Shoulder and Clarke East Ridge. Apart from a touch of fatigue holding edges whilst doing this sidle, this an extremely quick and efficient route back to the Snowy River crossing before the return hike over Charlotte Pass. Our quick return was certainly aided by the firm snow. The climb up from the Snowy River and the final ascent up to Mueller Pass were the only times I required skins today, Sue managing the whole trip without putting hers on once.
A glorious day out.
Day 5: Saturday 6/08/2016 Southern Alps Lodge – Perisher Valley return
Max elevation: 1932 m
Total climbing: 597 m
Total descent: -585 m
Average speed: 6.89 km/h
Total time: 05:36:50
A calm, cool and clear start to the day had us thinking we might take it a bit easier after four straight days at the start our season. Maybe just a quick duck down to Perisher Valley where we might join our daughter for lunch! We should, however, really have thought that idea through a bit better. With the benefit of hind sight, four snow free days and the corresponding thaw-freeze cycles should have been considered!
A quick start from the lodge down the road to the bottom of Charlotte Pass had us off track in no time. Those multiple freeze-thaw cycles of the previous days had left expansive boiler plate conditions. The heavy frost crystals glistening on top provided no traction for my ski pattern, Sue again managed a little better.
After slipping and sliding across Johnnies Plain I put the skins on for the climb up “Betts Hill”, Sue didn’t but regretted that decision about half way up. A quick run down into Betts Creek followed accompanied with a number of noisy, hard earned, skatey telemark turns.
Snow gums in Betts Creek headwaters
Along Betts Creek we encountered two other skiers on light skis who were also working hard with the traction issue.
As this had become a slow, taxing slog we opted to skip our exploration around Porcupine Rocks. Instead, we started down Rock Creek along the groomed trail where our edges had much more bite. Towards the bottom we followed the creek as it was much smoother and quicker than the trail. After a solid three and a half hours we finally made it into Perisher.
As Bethany was on the far side of the mountain we also missed our hoped for catchup but enjoyed our pre-packed sandwiches at a picnic table in the sun.
No way were we going back along the trail so the road it was. As this has a constant stream of of oversnow transport vehicles and had just been groomed it turned out to be a delightful ski. Lots of turns and much faster 90 minute return to the lodge. Our so called easy day had turned into the hardest morning and longest day at 22km.
Day 6: Sunday 70/8/2016 Charlotte Pass Resort skiing day
Max elevation: 1970 m
Total climbing: 4256 m
Total descent: -4246 m
Average speed: 13.37 km/h
Total time: 06:26:37
Sue feeling off with headache due to dehydration I took to the lifts and skied by myself for the day.
Day 7: Monday 8/8/2016
We enjoyed one last breakfast before finishing our packing and waiting for the oversnow transport to arrive at 10:15am.
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