10/02/2015 – 16/02/2015 Mount Robert – Sabine hut
Nelson Lakes National Park, NEW ZEALAND
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Leader, Report)
We moved our trip forward one day as the rain cleared and the forecast was for almost a week of sunny weather. Instead of doing two shorter trips we combined them into one longer trip as we were unable to get accommodation in St Arnaud in the interim. With our backpacks full with seven days worth of dehydrated food we headed out from the Mt Robert car park on a clear and sunny morning.
Day 1: Tuesday 10/2/15 Mount Robert – Lake Angelus
This route was reconstructed from memory using Google Earth Pro and GPS Visualizer.
Max elevation: 0 m
Total climbing: 0 m
Total descent: 0 m
Average speed: nan km/h
The track description noted for this route that it was very exposed and subject to to high winds and poor visibility. However on a day like we had with light winds and clear skies we felt like we were walking on top of the world. Once we were above the trees we were on a ridge for most of the walk with expansive views in all directions. The track became quite rocky as we progressed and was a bit testing at times with a fully laden pack. After more than six hours we reached a ridge from where we could see the gorgeous Lake Angelus and hut below us.
During the descent to the hut Sue unfortunately stood on a rock which gave way, she rolled her ankle and came down heavily on her knee and down face first with her pack on top of her. Not a pretty sight, luckily there was no one around! She limped to the hut to assess her injuries.
Lake Angelus is really a superb location. The conditions were so clear that on both nights we stayed at the hut Steve stayed up to photograph the stars (time lapse) on the cold crisp nights.
Lake Angelus
Day 2: Wednesday 11/2/15 Lake Angelus – Mt Angelus summit return
Max elevation: 2083 m
Total climbing: 653 m
Total descent: -584 m
Average speed: 2.40 km/h
Total time: 04:54:51
By the next morning Sue was able to walk with minimal pain as long as she didn’t twist her ankle. We decided to climb to the top of Mt Angelus as a day trip. This was a rocky ascent, again with unstable footing for much of the way. We were rewarded on the climb with magnificent views climbing via sunset saddle and Hinpouri tarn.
When we returned to the hut Sues ankle was very swollen so further soaking in the cold lake water and bandaging was required.
The Milky Way above Lake Angelus
Day 3: Thursday 12/2/15 Lake Angelus – Sabine hut
Max elevation: 1807 m
Total climbing: 246 m
Total descent: -1417 m
Average speed: 2.30 km/h
Total time: 06:18:51
From Angelus hut our plan was to descend Mt Cedric, a quick very steep decent to the Sabine hut. Glorious views were on offer from the ridge of the surrounding peaks and Lake Rotoroa. We met officers from the New Zealand army on a training exercise who had paddled across the lake, were climbing Mt Cedric and paddling back in the day.
Sue descending Mt Cedric Route with Angelus Peak in the distance
The descent below the bush line was very steep and tough on a sprained ankle. We were pleased to reach the Sabine hut until we found there were wasps nests in the toilet (actually in the bowl). These were way worse than the sand flies which also abounded in the area.
At the hut we met the four young Danish walkers who were planning to do the Travers Sabine circuit in three days (it usually takes a week). We were a little concerned as after day one they were complaining of sore legs and they were carrying canned food and a large bottle of tomato sauce!
The New Zealand army made lots of friends as they left the hut later in the afternoon when they offered to take out the trampers rubbish! This was indeed a treat as carrying scraps for a week is more weight than you really want.
Day 4: Friday 13/2/15 Sabine hut – Blue Lake
Max elevation: 1191 m
Total climbing: 1088 m
Total descent: -397 m
Average speed: 3.51 km/h
Total time: 09:48:02
We had been told that the track towards the West Sabine hut was full of wasps. We were very keen to get to Blue Lake so we could have a night there but this would mean an 8 hours plus day of walking. We headed off earliesh but as the morning was cool we had no problems with wasps.
The walk to West Sabine hut was quite scenic, along the pretty Sabine River. The Danish boys slept in and didn’t pass us until late morning. We heard later that they did make it over the pass that day in time for dinner (the walk would normally take about ten hours).
Sabine River West Branch
We reached the West Sabine hut by 2.00pm and decided to push on to Blue Lake although the sign said it was four hours to go (how long can it take to walk 8 kms?)
The last 8km were tough, mainly uphill over tree roots with a final steep pinch. We arrived at the hut at 5:30pm, very exhausted but we were glad we made it.
Day 5: Saturday 14/2/15 Blue Lake – West Sabine hut
Max elevation: 1167 m
Total climbing: 87 m
Total descent: -585 m
Average speed: 3.23 km/h
Total time: 03:04:52
The conditions at Blue lake were not idea as it was overcast and breezy but this really is a special place. The water has been tested as the clearest freshwater in the world. The colours in the lake are really beautiful, different shades of blue and green. We had a hot drink by the lake early in the morning and decided to walk to Lake Constance. The sun came out as we returned to Blue Lake and we were really glad we got to spend more time at this lovely spot. After lunch we headed back to West Sabine hut, arriving around 3:30 pm.
Blue Lake towards Mt Franklin
We were pleased to see the hut was not full as others had told us it had been overflowing on previous nights.
We enjoy the hut experience much more when they are less crowded and when there are not large groups. We were pleased to meet Rebecca who is walking the entire Te Araroa trail to raise money for Oxfam, remarkable!
After putting on the dinner and having an afternoon snack Sue felt suddenly unwell. It wasn’t long before she was violently ill and went to bed hoping for a better day tomorrow.
Day 6: Sunday 15/2/15 West Sabine hut – Sabine hut
Max elevation: 663 m
Total climbing: 368 m
Total descent: -563 m
Average speed: 3.79 km/h
Total time: 05:52:08
Sue was not sick during the night but only had sips of water and managed to have two dry crackers in the morning. Ahead was a five hour walk to Sabine hut, back to the wasp toilet. There was no option other than to get on with it, regardless of how she felt.
It was tough when all you want to do is lie down but you have to walk most of the day with a pack on your back. Still unable to eat, she soldiered on having two more crackers and some gastroltye along the way.
Mid afternoon we stumbled into the Sabine hut and did what we see people doing all the time, had a mid afternoon nap!
We had met Sam and Kath from Rotorua at the West Sabine hut. Sam was a doctor and kindly offered Sue some medication if she needed it. The thought of an eight hour walk out to the car the next day was a little difficult to imagine so the water taxi and bus shuttle was organised for the next day for $270!
Day 7: Monday 16/2/15 Sabine hut – Rotora across Lake Rotora
The water taxi took only 20 minutes to the other side of the lake and the bus met us soon afterwards and taxied us back to our car which were were pleased to see was intact. We reached the Mt Robert car park by 10:00am and we were soon back to the Alpine lodge for an afternoon of relaxing.
It took Sue four days to get back to full strength and she will always treat the water in future, regardless of where it comes from!
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