Tuesday 20/02/2024 Maingon Lookout – Remarkable Cave – Mount Brown Track – Cresent Bay Track – Cresent Bay
Tasman National Park, lutruwita / TASMANIA
Palawa Country
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos, Report), Sue Davies
Our first objective of the day was to get out for a run, preferably one with some views. We decided on a trail run out towards Mount Brown from the Remarkable Caves Carpark. Before heading out we walked down to Remarkable Caves for a peek. It is really impressive as you walk along the boardwalk and staircases to descend first across a deep gully and then down into the end of the “blowhole”. In front of you a large, long tunnel with the ocean visible beyond. Large, highly rounded stones below making a rocky, tinkling sound as each wave ebbs and flows past them. Very well worth the short walk from the carpark.
Max elevation: 99 m
Total climbing: 538 m
Total descent: -601 m
Average speed: 7.77 km/h
Total time: 01:10:33
Maingon Lookout at the end of the carpark provides great, but distant views of the seacliffs to the south.
After these tourist stops we headed off along the Mount Brown Track. Sue was hoping to get in 8km and I was going to see how I went, as the furthest I had previously run since heart surgery in mid-November was 3km. The track is well formed and the ground is covered in low heath with great views along the way. This had a much different feel to it than the Cape walks we had done the previous two days, largely due to it being so much more open.
Basket Bay and Penguin Rocks from Mount Brown Track
I ended up getting down onto Cresent Bay Beach before turning back, very happy that I had comfortably got that far. On the return, I was very tempted to head up to the lookout on Mount Brown, only another 10 minutes away. However, as Sue had started before me, she had turned around earlier at a point where the vegetation narrowed the track, respectful of how that would limit her vision on any hazards. As she did encounter a tiger snake on the trail a little later, it was a good decision. I just walked through that bit.
The views back towards Remarkable Cave are worth walking out for, as they provide a broader perspective on the structure of the cave. Anyway, we both ended up with 8km under our belts for the morning. From here we headed off to the Lucky Ducks Cafe in Nubeena for what we thought was a well deserved breakfast.
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, indigenous history, white history and other walks in the area (Gemini)
Landscape Features and Geology: A Dolerite Masterpiece
Cape Raoul’s dramatic topography is sculpted by dolerite, a fine-grained, dark igneous rock formed millions of years ago when molten magma cooled slowly underground. This resistant rock has weathered the relentless battering of the Southern Ocean, resulting in:
Towering dolerite columns: Reaching over 300 metres, these columns, known as the Tessellated Pavement, rise majestically from the churning sea, resembling a giant’s causeway.
Sea-sculpted arches and caverns: The relentless waves have carved out impressive features like the Cathedral Arch, a natural bridge framing the vast ocean vista, and the Doomed Rock, a precariously balanced dolerite block.
Windswept headlands: The cape’s exposed position allows for panoramic views of the rugged coastline, offshore islands, and the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean.
Scenic Highlights: A Feast for the Senses
Cape Raoul offers a plethora of scenic wonders:
Sunrise over the ocean: Witnessing the first rays of light illuminate the Tessellated Pavement and paint the sky in fiery hues is an unforgettable experience.
Furneaux Group islands: On clear days, these islands, remnants of a sunken landmass, create a breathtaking backdrop against the azure ocean.
Wildlife encounters: Look out for whales breaching in the distance, seals basking on sun-drenched rocks, and seabirds soaring on the thermals.
Diverse vegetation: From salt-tolerant coastal scrub clinging to cliff faces to pockets of lush rainforest in sheltered gullies, the plant life adds vibrant colour and texture to the landscape.
Local Flora: Adapting to the Harshness
The harsh coastal environment and dolerite-derived soils have fostered a unique plant community:
Coastal heathland: Dominated by low-lying shrubs like tea-tree (Leptospermum scoparium) and coastal rosemary (Olearia axillaris), adapted to wind and salt spray.
Scrub communities: Diverse pockets of scrub harbour wattles (Acacia spp.), banksias (Banksia marginata), and sheoaks (Allocasuarina verticillata).
Rainforest pockets: In sheltered gullies, pockets of cool temperate rainforest harbour towering eucalypts (Eucalyptus obliqua), tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica), and lush understory plants.
Cape Raoul provides habitat for a diverse range of fauna:
Seabirds: Witness gannets plunge-diving for fish, shearwaters gliding effortlessly on the wind, and penguins waddling ashore after a day at sea.
Land birds: Listen to the melodious calls of honeyeaters flitting amongst the flowers and spot parrots squawking overhead.
Marine mammals: Look out for pods of playful dolphins, majestic whales breaching in the distance, and seals hauled out on secluded rocks.
Reptiles and amphibians: Keep an eye out for geckos basking in the sunshine and frogs chirping in the damp gullies.
Indigenous History: A Deep Connection to Country
The Palawa people, the traditional owners of Lutruwita (Tasmania), have a deep and enduring connection to Cape Raoul. Archaeological evidence suggests they inhabited the area for over 40,000 years, utilizing its abundant resources for food, shelter, and spiritual connection.
Sadly, the arrival of European colonizers in the 18th century resulted in the dispossession and marginalization of the Palawa people. However, their cultural heritage and deep understanding of the land continue to inspire respect and a commitment to reconciliation.
White History: A Legacy of Exploration and Exploitation
While Cape Raoul served as a navigational aid, its rugged terrain and harsh environment did not attract extensive settlement. However, its resources were not entirely overlooked.
Seal hunting: In the early 19th century, sealers exploited the abundant fur seal populations around the cape, decimating these colonies within a few decades.
Timber felling: Dolerite columns were quarried for building materials in the late 19th century, leaving scars on the landscape that are still visible today.
Tourism: With the development of Tasmania as a tourist destination in the 20th century, Cape Raoul became a popular site for scenic walks and wildlife observation. This led to the creation of the Tasman National Park in 1937, offering protection for the natural and cultural heritage of the area.
However, the colonial narrative surrounding Cape Raoul often ignores the devastating impact it had on the Palawa people. Dispossession of their land, massacres, and forced removal from their traditional ways of life inflicted immense suffering and loss. Today, there is a growing recognition of this dark chapter in Tasmanian history, and efforts are underway to acknowledge and respect the Palawa perspective and ensure their stories are shared.
Other Walks within Cape Raoul: Exploring Further
The Cape Raoul Track, a renowned 14km round trip hike, offers diverse experiences:
Tessellated Pavement: Witness the dolerite columns up close and marvel at the power of the ocean that sculpted them.
The Arch and Lookout: Enjoy panoramic views of the coastline, offshore islands, and the vast Southern Ocean.
Shipstern Bluff: For experienced hikers, a detour leads to this world-renowned surfing spot with breathtaking coastal vistas.
Several shorter walks cater to different abilities and preferences:
The Remarkable Cave Track leads to a stunning sea cave adorned with colourful formations.
The Waterfall Bay Track offers a sheltered walk through coastal scrub to a secluded beach.
The Doomed Rock Track provides a shorter option with dramatic clifftop views.
Exploring these trails offers a deeper understanding of Cape Raoul’s diverse landscape, geology, and ecological significance.
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