Sunday 18/02/2024 Mill Creek Campsite – Cape Hauy Track – Candlestick – Totem Pole – Cape Hauy
Tasman National Park, lutruwita / TASMANIA
Pydairerme clan, Oyster Bay Nation
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos, Report), Sue Davies
It was yet another gorgeous morning and we attempted to make an early start to walk to Cape Hauy and Mount Fortescue as the walk was recommended in our guidebook (about 18km). Doubts started to set in when we arrived at the trailhead with a sign saying “No access to Mount Fortescue and Mount Pillar”.
Max elevation: 190 m
Total climbing: 643 m
Total descent: -624 m
Average speed: 3.56 km/h
Total time: 05:24:25
This walk is part of the “Three Capes Experience” commercial walk which has taken several years and millions of dollars to build. The trail infrastructure is impressive, with compressed gravel trails, boardwalks and good-quality stone steps throughout the walk.
The trail starts at Fortescue Bay, another turquoise coloured bay with pristine white sand. We walked through a casuarina forest initially and as we climbed through it, it gave way to predominantly coastal banksia. Steve saw a tiger snake at the side of the track quietly sunning itself in the sun. At around 3km we reached the side track to Mount Fortescue. At a short distance down the track, there was a sign forbidding us from entry. It deemed the area part of the “Three Capes Experience” and declared it could only be walked in one direction! It claimed it was to minimise the spread of root rot fungus. As there were no chemicals in the boot cleaning station on a busy Sunday we were not impressed with the rationale. It has developed into a user pay system attempting to coerce people into participating in the expensive multi-day walk. Unimpressed, we turned around and continued on the Cape Hauy walk.
Cape Pillar from Cape Hauy Track
Soon the impressive views of Cape Hauy revealed themselves. There was a fairly long descent and then viewpoints all the way to the lookout on Cape Hauy. The dolerite formations were very impressive as were the Candlestick and Totem Pole. Kayakers were enjoying a paddle on the deep blue waters and tourist boat passengers marvelling at the impressive formations from sea level. Steve seemed to position himself in very precarious positions trying to get the best shots. Most of the time it’s best for me not to look! We scrambled down a section of a rough track which is probably used by climbers accessing the Totem Pole and Candlestick but the best views were from the viewing platform. Our friends John and Geri joined us for lunch and we walked back with them for several kilometres.
After lunch, we returned via the same route. There was a long warm climb up many many steps but overall it was a fantastic day walk, even though we didn’t get to complete the route we had planned. A swim in the beautiful crystal clear waters of Fortescue Bay topped off the experience!
Geri’s Dairy Entry for the Day
“Walk to Cape Hauy today. It involved a half-hour drive on a well graded gravel road Majestic straight, tall trees in the forest on the way in.
The trail head was a bit congested with camper cars, and not much parking left for day trippers. Alter we found a spot we prepared our day packs and set off, it was a beautiful day again. We had just seen Sue and Steve setting off before we found a parking spot. They were planning to climb Mt Fortesque and walk a 20 km route. The track wound its way around the edge of Fortesque Bay with beautiful views overlooking the crystal clear waters and gentle waves of the beach. The track soon started to climb up, but with well spaced granite block steps and retaining walls, interspersed with flatter sections of road base. This construction continued all the way (as I believe it does for all the 3 Peaks ‘Experience walk – The cape Hauy section is the last part of this. After ascending for a way, the track was more gentle undulating through coastal heath section until we reached the junction with the track from Cape Pillar. It then went down, down, down, down and of, up, up, and down down, up, up to the cape and a lookout overlooking; the totem pole, a very spectacular sea stack (which Nick Whilelaw has climbed!) The views all around were spectacular. of the sea cliffs, looking south toward Cape Pillar and north towards Eaglehawk Neck.
We met Sue and Steve at Cape Hauy. They were bitterly disappointed that they couldn’t meet their objective to climb Mt Fortesque, as a sign at the track junction informed them that the track to Cape Pillar was for paying customers only and you could only walk in the anti-clockwise direction due to biosecurity reasons otherwise (!! ???….what! ) So we set off on the return journey (same route) with them. The climb out, up the many many stairs, was long and hot. John needed a break on the way to the top.
I mainly needed some shade and water. I am glad we took two full bottles of water. We needed them! The last 2km was pleasant, mostly down hill, a gentle breeze cooled us off occasionally and the trees got taller to provide shade.
On our return, we donned our swimmers and had a refreshing, cooling-off swim in the clear, turquoise waters of Fortesque Bay. BEAUTIFUL!!
It was interesting along the walk, noting the changes in vegetation along the way. There was tall Eucalypt, callibris, banksia, casuarina, tea tree and smaller Shrubs as the understorey (heaths, lomandras, bor ferns, steren I found four flowering specimens of Erochilus (parine bands) orchid, and are seed popt another type ofarchia).
There was some birdsong, but no joy in sighting
– cockatoos flying except a twas in the trite vegetate Flying overhead, a female ween looking fu crumbs at lunch, and kelp gulls on the rocks at the beach.”
Information on Parks Tasmania signage along the way
Do not proceed along this track
This area is part of Three Capes Track Experience.
Between Denmans Cove to the Cape Hauy Track, the Three Capes Track is to be walked in a west to east direction only.
This is to enhance protection of environmental values within the Tasman National Park by minimising the risk of Phytophthora cinnamomi (rootrot fungus) spreading into threatened vegetation communities.
This designation was made in accordance with the National Parks and Reserved Land Regulations 2009 (Regulation 33).
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, indigenous history, white history and other walks in the area (Gemini)
Tasman National Park, a crown jewel of Tasmania’s natural heritage, unfolds over 2,836 hectares, encompassing a breathtaking tapestry of coastal vistas, dramatic dolerite cliffs, sculpted sea stacks, and verdant forests. Its diverse landscape, sculpted by millions of years of geological forces and steeped in rich indigenous and colonial history, beckons with unparalleled scenic beauty and cultural intrigue.
A Geological Canvas: From Gondwana to Glaciers
The park’s geological story begins with its ancient roots in Gondwana, the supercontinent that once encompassed Australia, Antarctica, and other landmasses. Around 180 million years ago, the tectonic plates drifted apart, shaping Tasmania’s distinct geological character. The park’s dominant geological feature is dolerite, a coarse-grained igneous rock formed from the solidification of lava flows. These dolerite columns, some exceeding 300 meters in height, were created by the cooling and contraction of the lava, resulting in the awe-inspiring formations that captivate visitors today.
The park’s landscape bears the marks of the Pleistocene epoch, when glaciers carved through the dolerite, leaving behind U-shaped valleys, hanging valleys, and sculpted landforms like the Tessellated Pavement, a mesmerizing expanse of polygonal dolerite blocks. The park’s diverse geological formations have also contributed to the creation of fertile soil pockets that nourish a tapestry of plant life.
A Feast for the Senses: Scenic Highlights Galore
Tasman National Park boasts a plethora of scenic highlights that leave visitors speechless. The park’s crown jewel is zweifel Island, a granite mass adorned with towering dolerite columns, accessible only by boat. The island’s stark beauty is accentuated by the aptly named Cathedral Rock, a natural archway that frames the ever-changing canvas of the sky.
Around the corner, Waterfall Bay showcases the power of water, where the might of Waterfall Creek plunges 30 meters into the churning ocean. The park’s coastline is a photographer’s paradise, with sculpted sea stacks like the Tasman Arch and Devil’s Kitchen standing as testaments to the erosive forces of nature.
Venturing inland, the park’s walking tracks unveil hidden gems like the Tessellated Pavement, with its mesmerizing geometric patterns, and the Remarkable Cave, adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. The park’s diverse topography ensures that every turn unveils a new vista, each one a testament to the park’s geological tapestry.
A Tapestry of Life: Unveiling the Local Flora and Fauna
Tasman National Park is a haven for a diverse array of flora and fauna, each species playing a vital role in the park’s ecological equilibrium. The varied topography supports a mosaic of vegetation communities, ranging from dry sclerophyll forests on the slopes to lush rainforests in sheltered valleys.
The park’s signature plant is the critically endangered Tasmanian devil, the largest carnivorous marsupial in the world. Sadly, devil facial tumour disease has significantly impacted their populations, making sightings rare but incredibly special. Other iconic fauna species include the Forester kangaroo, Eastern quoll, pademelons, and a plethora of birdlife, including the forty-spotted pardalote, the grey-headed whipbird, and the elusive masked owl.
The park’s diverse flora is no less impressive. The heathlands are ablaze with wildflowers during spring, while the rainforests boast ancient tree ferns, towering eucalypts, and vibrant mosses. The park’s coastline is a haven for marine life, with whales, dolphins, and seals frequently gracing visitors with their presence.
A Walk Through Time: Indigenous and Colonial Histories
Tasman National Park is not merely a scenic wonder; it is also a land rich in cultural significance. The park is the traditional home of the Oyster Bay Tribe, part of the Nuenonne people, who have inhabited the area for millennia. Their deep connection to the land is reflected in numerous archaeological sites, including middens, stone tool scatters, and artefact scatters.
The park also bears witness to the arrival of European colonists in the 18th century. The ruins of convict settlements and farming ventures stand as stark reminders of this period. The park’s management today recognizes the importance of both indigenous and colonial histories, striving to ensure a respectful and inclusive narrative for all visitors.
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