26/5/2016 – 5/6/2016 Tra Mare e Monti
Calenzana – Cargese, CORSICA
Distance: 176.6km Total Ascent: 9100m Total Descent: 9425m Moving Time: 48 hours
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report, Photos)
“The longest-standing and easily the most wonderful long-distance route in Corsica, the Mare e Monti holds true to its name and provides a roller coaster of treats ranging from breathtaking coastline with blue sea and beaches to some awe-inspiring mountainous landscapes” Gillian Price (Walking in Corsica – Long Distance and Short Walks, Cicerone Guides, 2013)
It was an adventure even getting to the start of this walk that involved several days of travel. We flew to Ajaccio, the capital city of Corsica. The following day we caught the train to Calvi, changing at Ponte Leccia. The trip duration was nearly five hours but was very scenic, firstly through the mountainous interior and then to the picturesque coast. Calvi is a gem with it’s commanding citadel and turquoise sandy beaches.
After planning to catch the school bus to the start of the walk at Calenzana, we purchased our tickets ahead of time and waited at the bus stop. No bus. I returned to the store where we purchased the tickets and they sheepishly informed me they neglected to advise the bus company to pick us up! They refunded our money but we had missed the only bus that day and our only option was to catch a taxi (35 euros).
The taxi driver dropped us in the main square at Calenzana so we still needed to find our accommodation. We stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast, A l’Ombre du Clocher. The home made jams with fresh bread for breakfast were amazing.
Day 1: Thursday 26/5/2016 Calenzana – Bonifatu
Max elevation: 569 m
Total climbing: 971 m
Total descent: -702 m
Average speed: 4.01 km/h
Total time: 05:54:07
Looking back at Calanzana
The next morning it was time to finally start our walk. It was a warm sunny day as we headed off from the centre of town to climb the paved path in common with the GR20.
Some day hikers stopped for a chat and when we told them we were Australian we were treated to an impromptu flute recital. Who doesnt carry a flute when bushwalking? Magnifique!
The wild flowers were stunning as were the butterflies. We saw very few walkers on the trail during the day.
We were pleased to reach the bridge over the Fiarella where we stopped for lunch and a refreshing swim in the crystal clear water. It was gorgeous!
We climbed up through the lush vegetation until we reached Bocca Rezza with good views of the pink granite formations. Soon we arrived at our destination for the day, the welcoming Auberge de la Foret.
Bocca a u Corsu Photo: Sue Davies
Day 2: Friday 27/5/2016 Around Bonifatu
Max elevation: 888 m
Total climbing: 659 m
Total descent: -657 m
Average speed: 4.26 km/h
Total time: 05:02:38
We decided to spend an extra day at Auberge de la Foret as recommended in the guide book. This hotel is very comfortable with hearty food, a relaxing terrace and friendly staff.
Walking around Bonifatu
Lizard Photo: Sue Davies
We headed up the valley with our packed lunch of ham and Camembert rolls and soon joined the GR20 track. It was a beautiful morning and the wild flowers were on show and the colourful lizards were scurrying about. We reached the suspension bridge and decided to turn back. We then crossed the river and explored the northern side. We walked up what appeared to be an old road and we were rewarded with excellent views of the surrounding mountains. We also had views of our Auberge in the valley below. We then started our descent until we reached the Figarella river where we enjoyed our lunch and a brief dip in the refreshing clear water. Then it was back to the Auberge for a relaxing afternoon on the terrace amongst the towering pines.
Day 3: Saturday 28/5/2016 Bonifatu – Tuarelli
Max elevation: 1160 m
Total climbing: 754 m
Total descent: -1269 m
Average speed: 3.88 km/h
Total time: 06:50:23
It was a warm morning as we headed off from Bonifatu heading up the hill through the beautiful shady pine forest. We passed the ruins of Chalet Prince Pierre (son of Boneparte’s brother) and continued climbing to the lookout (Bocca) in just over two hours. That was our climbing done for the day.
Punta Literniccia Photo: Sue Davies
Bocca di Bonassa
The rest of the day was a gradual descent (1100 m) over many kilometres including sidling around the side of a few mountains. The wild flowers were on show and various bird songs could be heard including the cuckoo.
A train of caterpillars on the march
We were pleased to eventually see the Fango river after nearly six hours of walking and to find the Gite at Tuarelli. Unfortunately, the weather had changed after our arrival and a cool breeze came up. We gave the swim in the Fango river a miss this time. Language was again an issue but out of necessity our afternoon order of coffee and mineral water has now been perfected! We enjoyed a wonderful meal of local produce prepared in the traditional Corsican way. This was topped off with a tipple of limoncello. At this Gite, we shared a room with four French walkers who were completing the Mare e Monti in six days, much faster than us!
Fango river
Day 4: Sunday 29/5/2016 Tuarelli – Galeria
Max elevation: 183 m
Total climbing: 1033 m
Total descent: -1108 m
Average speed: 5.51 km/h
Total time: 06:14:32
After realising that I had made an error with our booking in that the Villa la Casaloha was only located in Fangu (half way through the days walk rather than in Galeria, our intended destination) I sent two emails to change the arrangements. This did not cause any issues.
We awoke on Sunday morning to heavy rain and thunder! However, by the time we started walking the rain had cleared. This was great, as the walk along the gorge was stunning! The rocks were pink coloured and the water crystal clear. There were many photo stops. We stopped near the Ponte Vechju, an elegant Genoese bridge and made the most of our last opportunity to swim in the Fango river. Feeling refreshed, we walked along the road to Fangu where we had an enjoyable lunch at the cafe (cheese omelette and chefs salad).
Ponte Vechju
Leaving the road we climbed along a mainly shady track to a col which afforded excellent views of the coast and the delta of the Fango river. Galeria looked impressive from this vantage point. After a short stop in the town we walked to the pleasant gite to a warm welcome by the French speaking host.
We had an enjoyable meal at the gite starting with a hearty salad, then moussaka and fruit. We had an interesting conversation with a French man about politics!
Day 5: Monday 30/5/2016 Galeria – Girolata
Max elevation: 754 m
Total climbing: 1496 m
Total descent: -1530 m
Average speed: 3.14 km/h
Total time: 08:29:52
We headed off under clear sunny skies. It felt a little cooler than previous days. We walked through a lovely wild valley following a stream, the track was littered with old stone walls. As we climbed the views improved until we reached the high point at Punta Litericcia. We enjoyed some food and the incredible views. The wind was cool and we didn’t feel like lingering. We headed down following the orange paint markers on the rock. After nearly an hour the track reached the road and I realised something was wrong as there was no indication in the guide book that we crossed a road. On rereading the guide book I could see that we had followed the variant path. Unfortunately, the sign to Girolata was missing at the top of the descent which hadn’t helped us at all. So we had to climb back up again, about 350 vertical metres to Punta Litericcia. This added an extra hour and a half to an already long day.
Golfe de Girolata
The views on the descent proper were superb which made us somewhat forget how tired we were feeling. We had fantastic views of both the Golfe de Galeria and the Golfe de Girolata and the red rocks of the Scandola promontory where boats are not allowed to moore and walking access is strictly forbidden. The blue green water near Girlolata was sparkling as we reached the Genoese watchtower above the town. We were glad to finally arrive!
Girolata Photo: Sue Davies
Girolata is a small isolated settlement accessible only by boat or foot, no roads lead here. The beach is lined with eucalyptus trees so we felt right at home. We had a wonderful meal at the beachfront restaurant (fish soup, fish and dessert) and Sue again attempted to practice her French. We we every excited when we saw credit cards were accepted as when carrying cash for eleven days there is always the fear of running out. We slept well that night! Half board here was excellent value at 45 euros each!
Day 6: Tuesday 31/5/2016 Girolata – Curzu
Max elevation: 672 m
Total climbing: 1126 m
Total descent: -897 m
Average speed: 3.24 km/h
Total time: 06:41:27
After breakfast overlooking the lovely beach and watch tower we decided to go and explore the chateau only to find there was no access (it is apparently privately owned).
Girolata and Scandola promontory
We climbed up the path with views looking back over Girolata, it looked stunning surrounded by azure water. After yesterday’s adventures we decided to take the shorter variant path along Tuara Beach. It was strange to see cows on the beach, although we also saw them on the beach at Girolata. There were many groups of people doing the day walk to Girolata, although once we passed the car park at Bocca a Croce we didn’t see a single person.
Girolata to Curzu
We got pretty bad sandwiches at the snack bar, I’m not keen on Corsican ham and cheese I decided. We then started the long climb to the 750 metre col. This seemed to take longer than we thought but there were sweeping views in all directions. Finally, we reached the sign for Curzu and began our descent. We soon found the Gite with its efficient staff directing us to our room. It was nice to be provided with a proper towel and shampoo.
We enjoyed a hearty dinner but the Corsican cheese provided at the end was not really appreciated. We had an interesting discussion with a Swiss couple, (one who worked for a news agency and the other was an environmental engineer in the renewable energy sector) in the evening.
Day 7: Wednesday 1/6/2016 Curzu – Serriera
Max elevation: 429 m
Total climbing: 521 m
Total descent: -714 m
Average speed: 3.65 km/h
Total time: 03:03:35
We woke up to rain! But at least the wifi was working in the morning. We had a short walk today to Serriera (only three hours and fifteen minutes) so we decided to head off and just do it. The rain got heavier as we went along. As usual we didn’t get away without a climb, although it was only 430 metres today. It actually got pretty cold so we pushed on and arrived in about three hours to a lovely gite where we had a nice lunch and coffee before having well needed showers and a quiet afternoon indoors for a change. The heavy rain continued through the afternoon.
We met two French couples who spoke limited English, who were walking the trail and said they had seen us at Calenzana and Bonifatu, although we hadn’t noticed them. I guess we stand out. A bit.
Day 8: Thursday 2/6/2016 Serriera – Ota
It was overcast when we set off but we managed to walk for the first hour and a half without rain. It was intermittent throughout the day and we didn’t get as soaked as the previous day. As per usual we had a steady climb, this time of 900 metres but unfortunately the mist hid our sweeping views today. It made for some interesting photos of the Vitrone ravine which was quite impressive.
Bocca San Petru
Ota
Our entry into the charming town of Ota was as usual by the back streets and through the residents backyards. We had made the walk in good time today so enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. We saw the young French couples in the town, they had been with us since Tuarelli and always told us interesting facts about Corsica. This time they told us that Corsicans did not like the coast as they were frequently invaded so they tended to make their towns inland, where they could hide. This explains so many villages situated high in the mountains.
That night for dinner we had fantastic vegetable and bean soup and massive amounts of wild boar stew with pasta.
We shared a room that night with Ian, a modern day tramp from England. This was only the second time he had paid for accommodation in Corsica in the past six weeks. He did not carry a towel so he “air dried” himself. He patched up the plastic shopping bags he carried and he admitted to reusing toilet paper found on the trail, his way of recycling. He really was one of a kind.
Day 9: Friday 3/6/2016 Ota – Marignana
Max elevation: 898 m
Total climbing: 1024 m
Total descent: -654 m
Average speed: 4.10 km/h
Total time: 06:53:30
It was predicted to rain again today, so we got an early start. It ended up being overcast the whole day but these was hardly any rain. We regretfully left the lovely town on Ota and headed to the river along the trail.
Pont de Zaglia
Spelunca gorge
We were soon in the Spelunca gorge which featured two fifteenth century Genoese Ponts (bridges) and a lovely river. We were surrounded by towering rock walls. The gorge was quite deep when we commenced our climb out, so yet again a big climb and descent as has been the case every day. We made good time to Evisa and had a nice lunch in a cafe. I ordered lunch in French and the waiter told me my French was good!
We descended from Evisa into a beautiful forest that followed a river. At one stage we had to climb onto a hanging bridge to cross the stream.
Eventually, we arrived at the Gite at Marignana to a smoke filled dining room. We requested a private room which ended up being ten minutes down the road, past the cemetery. There was nothing much in town so half board at the Gite was the only option. At least there was free wifi. Surprisingly, the smoking stopped when we told them we couldn’t sit in the main room because of the haze.
Day 10: Saturday 4/6/2016 Marignana – E Case
Max elevation: 1101 m
Total climbing: 988 m
Total descent: -1075 m
Average speed: 3.71 km/h
Total time: 06:57:53
Breakfast at the Gite was rather lean with only green tea, four small slices of bread each and marmalade. We only had snacks for lunch (nougat, dried fruit and chips) and a long day ahead. It was a gorgeous clear sunny day and not too hot.
Bocca Acquaviva
It was a gradual climb to the saddle which seemed to take a long time. The wild flowers and lavender provided a brilliant display. We had a snack at the saddle and began the long descent and traverse. The whole walk today was very scenic, with fine views and shaded forests beside clear streams. It was a relief to arrive at our destination, E Case but no one was home. We rested outside the stone farmhouse enjoying views of the coast and the Golfe de Chiuni. Our host arrived about 4.45pm and we were able to get coffee, cake and a drink to our relief. It was lovely sitting outside enjoying the afternoon sunshine at this unique location.
E Case, converted farmhouse
Our dinner that night of pasta, pork chops and hearty vegetable soup was wonderful.
Day 11: Sunday 5/6/2016 E Case – Cargese
Max elevation: 622 m
Total climbing: 699 m
Total descent: -1225 m
Average speed: 3.98 km/h
Total time: 04:46:23
We headed off on the final day after a well deserved rest. We had good views looking towards the ocean as we descended from E Case. We crossed several streams and walked past farm houses before we had our climb for the day up to the high point and the ruins of a chapel. We then walked down a ridge with fantastic views of the coastline near Cargese. We arrived at our destination around lunch time. I was happy that I had paid an extra five euros for a water view as we got great sunset photos from our balcony. We had a lovely meal outside at a restaurant with water views but yet again we were bothered by cigarette smokers which was one of the few downsides of this wonderful place.
Towards Cargese
We had really enjoyed the Mare e Monti trail and our three weeks in Corsica. It had been a brilliant eleven days of scenic walking with loads of variety.
Cargese sunset
Clickable icons on a world map which open the related trip report
A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries and other content
