Antarctic Peninsula Expedition

9/12/2025 – 19/12/2025    Antarctic Peninsula Expedition

“It is in our nature to explore, to reach out into the unknown. The only true failure would be not to explore at all.” Ernest Shackelton

Participants:  Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report), Cal Stewart, Kerrie Stewart, with 93 staff, and 134 other passengers

Route of MS Seaventure

Antarctic Peninsula Voyage  (Garmin Messenger)

Total distance: 3292.32 km
Max elevation: 487 m
Total climbing: 11633 m
Total descent: -11773 m
Average speed: 16.89 km/h
Total time: 12:41:30
Download file: 20251209Seaventure.gpx                         Track Info

Day 1: Tuesday 9/12/2025   Ushuaia – MS Seaventure – Beagle Channel – Drake Passage

                                                   ARGENTINA – SOUTHERN OCEAN

Ship’s Log: 09th Dec

                     Ushuaia 54°48’S / 068°18 W

                     Beagle Channel 54°59’S / 066°49 W

Antarctica Map 1

Schedule:

1600 Embarkation – All Aboard!

Please feel free to explore the vessel and make yourselves comfortable.

Afternoon tea will be served in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5. Please check that all your luggage has been delivered to your cabin.

Once you have been shown to your stateroom, please make you way to the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 to pick up your expedition jacket. If you need to exchange your black puffer jacket, please bring it along.

***This is your only chance to pickup or exchange a jacket***

1715 Welcome! Please join us in the Seabreeze Lounge (Deck 5) for an introduction to the ship followed by a Mandatory Ship Safety and Lifeboat Briefing. Your lifejackets are not required at this time.

Immediately following the briefing, there will be a lifeboat drill for all passengers.

 

We boarded the bus at 3:15pm for a short bus trip to the port of Ushuaia. Our boat was dwarfed by the larger boats around us. Had we made the right decision to go on a smaller boat? We shall see.

We had a welcome meeting with so much food we wondered if this was an early dinner! We went through safety protocols and donned our life jackets for an abandon ship drill. All very important!

Dinner was at 7:00pm with four courses, with a choice for each. We will not go hungry! Seas were relatively calm as we explored the ship and anticipated the days ahead.

Seaventure in the Beagle Channel

 

Day 2: Wednesday 10/12/2025   Seaventure – Drake Passage

                                                            SOUTHERN OCEAN

Ship’s Log: 10th Dec

                     At Sea 58°00’S / 065°23’W

Schedule:

0930 Please join Lisa in the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 for her presentation, “Seabirds of the Southern Ocean”.

1100 Please join Bex and the team in the Expedition Lounge (Deck 7) for an introduction to Citizen Science and learn how you can get involved on board.

Immediately following, join Lisa outside on Deck 5 aft for a Seabird Survey.

1500 Mandatory IAATO and Zodiac Briefing – Please join Maria, Marcos, and the team in the Expedition Lounge (Deck 7) for a Mandatory Briefing on our Zodiac operations and protocols while on shore. Please bring your ships ID card and your red life jacket to this briefing.

Mandatory Bio Security Party! Join us in The Seabreeze Lounge (Deck 5) to inspect all outerwear and bags. We will also be scrubbing boots, walking sticks and tripods. You will be called to the Biosecurity Party by Deck. There will also be a chance to exchange boots during this time.

1815 Please join Maria and the team for a Recap & Briefing in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5.

 

I had a good night’s sleep as the seas were quite calm. Maybe the ginger tablets, ginger beer and wrist bands will work!

There is always plenty of fresh food. We had lectures about the citizen science projects and then went onto the deck for our first seabird survey. We saw an albatross and some petrels following the ship’s wake.

Drake Passage

After lunch, we attended the mandatory session for Zodiac landings. The protocols for interacting with wildlife and respecting the environment were impressive. Next, we were called to a biosecurity “party” where they checked all our external gear to make sure it was suitable. Steve was the record holder for the person taking the most time, needing to pick out debris from the velcro of his Gore-Tex jacket and to clear down all his camera bags. Afternoon tea was on offer; we will never go hungry on board! It was warm and sunny outside, not the Drake Crossing we anticipated!

Day 2 Photos

 

Day 3: Thursday 11/12/2025   Drake Passage – Bransfield Straight – Halfmoon Bay – Halfmoon Island – Base Cámara

                                                        SOUTHERN OCEAN – South Shetland Islands

“The fair breeze blew, the white foam flew, the furrow followed free, we were the first that ever burst into that silent sea.” Samuel Taylor Coleridge

Ship’s Log: 11th Dec

                      Half Moon Island SS, BL 14:40 – 17:00 62°36’S / 059°56’W

Antarctica Map 2

Antarctica Map 3

Schedule:

0915 Campers! Please join Marcos and the team for a mandatory camping briefing in the Expedition Lounge (Deck 7). If you are signed up for camping or are on the wait list, you must attend this briefing.

1045 Kayakers! Please join the Kayaking Team in the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 for a mandatory briefing. If you have signed up to paddle, you must attend this meeting.

1130 Join Lisa outside on Deck 5 after where we will conduct a Citizen Science Bird Survey!

1430 This afternoon, we are planning an excursion at Halfmoon Bay! Please listen up for announcements regarding disembarkation.

1830 Please join Captain Arsen and his crew in the Seabreeze Lounge for the Captain’s Welcome Cocktail. Immediately following, join Maria and the team for a Recap and Briefing.

Today we had two briefings in the morning, the first was for camping on the ice. At this stage, we are still on the wait list, although there were 100 spots available, it seems everyone wants to go. This activity is, of course, very weather-dependent, and we really hope we get to do it.

We joined in a bird survey on the rear deck, and we saw our first iceberg!

 

11/12 Morning   Drake Passage – Bransfield Straight

                               Seaventure Cruising

11/12 2:42 – 4:46pm   Seaventure – Caleta Menguante – Half Moon Bay – Base Cámara – Gabriel Hill – Half Moon Island

                                       Zodiac Landing – Snowshoeing (GoPro – Incorrect timestamp says 12th 5:00am)

Total distance: 3.62 km
Max elevation: 97 m
Total climbing: 117 m
Total descent: -113 m
Average speed: 4.56 km/h
Total time: 02:03:55
Download file: 20251211.gpx                         Track Info

 

After lunch, we prepared for snowshoeing, leaving at about 2:30pm. The boat was moored off Half Moon Bay, on Livingston Island, part of the South Shetland Islands. It was misty and a bit windy, but we had the appropriate gear. We loaded into the zodiac, and off we went. It was choppy on the water, and getting out was done quickly. We slid into our snowshoes, and after quick adjustments, we were on our way.

Snow shoeing at Halfmoon Bay

We climbed up to an outlook, all of about 84m, but it was great to actually be on land in Antarctica, it was a bit surreal! We took a few photos and then returned via the Argentinian Research Station, which was unoccupied. We waited on the beach for our turn to return to the ship on the zodiac. This time we got a bit wet, but it was nice to return to the warm ship after our decontamination procedure. Boots need to be hosed off, go through mechanical brushes and a solution to kill any organisms. We then went for a cuppa before we all met for the Captains’ Cocktail Welcome.

Day 3 Photos – Drake Passage

Day 3 Panoramas – Drake Passage

 

Day 4: Friday 12/12/2025   Gerlache Strait – Useful Island – Fournier Bay – Anvers Island

                                                  THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Ship’s Log: 12th Dec

                      Fournier Bay K, CS, ZC, PP 14:00 – 17:30 64°31’S / 063°06’W

Antarctica Map 4

Antarctica Map 5

Schedule:

0830 This morning, we are planning a landing at Useful Island. Please listen for announcements.

1430 This afternoon, we are planning a Zodiac cruise in the beautiful Fournier Bay.

1845 Please join Maria and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for a Recap & Briefing.

After dinner, join Randy for live music in the Seabreeze Lounge!

 

We woke up early, I around 4:00am, to look out the window at clear skies and a pristine winter wonderland. Cal had been up since 3:00am. It was so stunning and beautiful, we saw penguins floating past on icebergs and snowy peaks as far as the eye could see.

We were heading through the Gerlache Strait to Useful Island (next to Useless Island) for some activities, but the wind picked up, so it was decided to continue on to Fournier Bay in the hope of making a more sheltered landing for kayaking and a zodiac cruise. The programme is very dynamic and constantly adapting to the conditions to optimize our experience.

I met Martin, a fellow passenger who had only secured his place on the expedition about two weeks before leaving. He got into camping in the first round. There were several people who were really seasick through the Drake Passage despite it being relatively calm. Maybe the ginger and the bands worked for me.

Killer Whale – Orca (Orcinus orca)

We saw many pods of Orcas over breakfast, which was fantastic. They were very close to the ship, and while I didn’t get photos, it was wonderful just to watch. We ended up cruising for a further three hours, so there were lectures on the wildlife (penguins) to keep us entertained. Honestly, just being here and looking out at this vast wilderness is an incredible experience.

At lunch, we had incredible views of the peninsulas surrounding Fournier Bay, where humpback whales frolicked in the still waters. For the afternoon, our activity was a zodiac cruise. Unfortunately, there was nowhere to land here (which had been previously planned), so we just went cruising.

I spoke to our lovely Filipino waiter, Leo, over lunch. He told me he has worked in this role for 13 years, and he has a 22-year-old son. He works from November to March in Antarctica and goes home for two weeks before flying to the Northern Hemisphere to work on Arctic cruises for six months until September. He enjoys the work and said he can earn good money, much better than in the Philippines. He has made a point of getting to know us and what we like to order.

Day 4 Photos – SeaVenture Cruise

Day 4 Panoramas

 

12/12/2025 2:42 – 4:15pm   Seaventure – Fournier Bay

                                                  Zodiac Cruise

                                                  THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 9.06 km
Max elevation: 6 m
Total climbing: 10 m
Total descent: -5 m
Average speed: 13.64 km/h
Total time: 01:32:24
Download file: 20251212p.gpx                         Track Info

 

Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)

I shouldn’t have said “just cruising” because our zodiac trip led by Jen was incredible! We were gently cruising amongst the icebergs and glaciers, and there seemed to be humpback whales all around. It was lovely to see the tail flukes, and they casually swam by. Jen then spotted a group of Gentoo penguins on an iceberg, and it was so entertaining to watch them seemingly discuss whether to dive into the water or not. Much indecision appeared to be taking place until one decides to go, and they all go. Is this real??

Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)

We cruised around looking at an array of different icebergs, and we saw a few turning over, which is why you should never get too close. We then cruised through chunky ice, which bumped the zodiac when we hit the ice pieces. Jen retrieved a large chunk of ice, and Ellen decided she wanted to have it in her drink tonight. She invited everyone to the bar at 6:30pm for drinks with glacial ice.

Jen thought she spotted a seal from far away, so we approached it, and to our surprise, it was a Leopard Seal lying on a flat iceberg. They are quite rare as they were hunted to almost extinction, and their numbers are just starting to recover. It was wonderful to see and very special. It looked very relaxed, and as Jen said, you don’t want to see them in the water as they are in hunting mode and can puncture the zodiac.

Leopard seal (Hydrurga leptonyx)

We returned to the ship, thrilled with the sights we had seen in the afternoon in perfect conditions. We watched the brave souls doing the polar plunge in the afternoon, happy with our decision to just observe this activity.

Day 4 Photos

Sues Facebook Post for 9/12/25 – 12/12/25

Sue’s Facebook Post – Penguin Plunge

 

Day 5: Saturday 13/12/2025   Fournier Bay – Neumayer Channel – The Seven Sisters –

                                                       THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

“The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for a newer and richer experience.”   Eleanor Roosevelt

Ship’s Log: 13th Dec

                      Damoy Point CS, ZC, BL, SS 08:30 – 12:00 64°49’S / 063°32’W    

                      Petermann Island BL, K, CS 15:30 – 18:30 65º10’S / 064°10’W

                      Lemaire Channel SC 14:00 – 15:00 64°47’S / 063°30 W

Antarctica Map 6

Antarctica Map 7

Antarctica Map 8

Antarctica Map 9

Schedule:

0830 This morning, we are planning an excursion to Damoy Point.

This afternoon, we will be transiting through the famous Lemaire Channel. Listen for announcements and join us on deck to take in the breathtaking scenery.

TBA This afternoon, we also hope to explore Petermann Island. Please listen for announcements regarding disembarkation.

1900 Join Maria and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for a Recap and Briefing.

Karaoke Night!!!

After dinner, please join Randy in the Seabreeze Lounge for karaoke!

Antarctica Map 10

 

We awoke to gorgeous icy scenery again, and the boat was headed to Damoy Point, a historical stop that was part of the British base and included an airstrip on the glacier.

 

13/12/2025 8:55am – 12:02pm Seaventure – Dorian Bay – Tombstone Hill – Dorian Bay Viewpoint – Wiencke Island – Dorian Bay Viewpoint – Damoy Point

                                                        Zodiac Landing – Hike

                                                        THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 8.64 km
Max elevation: 40 m
Total climbing: 89 m
Total descent: -95 m
Average speed: 10.35 km/h
Total time: 03:06:59
Download file: 20251213.gpx                         Track Info

 

Antarctica Map 11

We were allocated to the Zodiac cruise first up, followed by a landing and walk. We were lucky to be on Bex’s Zodiac, who provided us with excellent commentary and sightings. First, she pointed out The Seven Sisters, seven stunning peaks all in a row. She said they don’t always reveal themselves, so we were lucky today. There were lots of icebergs in the water, so there was plenty to see. We stopped beside a Gentoo Penguin colony, and the curious animals came down to look. We saw a single Chinstrap Penguin and a Weddel Seal, as well as a variety of birds. Many of the penguins in the colony were nesting on eggs. An Antarctic Shag joined the party. After enjoying penguin antics and the varieties of icebergs for a while, we headed to the start of the land-based walk.

Chinstrap Penguin (Pygoscelis antarcticus)

We went on a directed walk, first stopping at the remnants of the old settlement before heading along the flagged route, which passed the penguin colony. It’s hilarious to watch the penguins; they are quite awkward on land but so adept in the water! Steve and I were advised that we needed to quickly finish the walking route in order to make the boat. So we pushed on, and it was good to have a brisk walk. We arrived back before the allocated time. Once there were enough people for a Zodiac, we headed back to the boat. We arrived back just in time for lunch.

We were advised when we started passing through the various channels for which more decks were opened for viewing. Particularly impressive was transiting through the Lemaire Channel. This narrow steep steep-walled passage was just what you imagined Antarctica to be, icebergs everywhere, towering icy peaks, glaciers, penguins and whales, it was incredible!

Day 5 Photos – Damoy Point

Day 5 Panoramas – Damoy Point

 

13/12/2025 6:01 – 6:56pm   Groussac Refuge – Eisenfriedhof – Petermann Island

                                                  Zodiac Landing – Hike

                                                  THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 2.13 km
Max elevation: 26 m
Total climbing: 23 m
Total descent: -42 m
Average speed: 5.82 km/h
Total time: 00:55:45
Download file: 20251213p.gpx                         Track Info

 

Antarctica Map 12

We continued on to Petermann Island in the afternoon for our final activity. We had a landing starting at 5:00pm. The weather was perfect, warm and sunny. The location was spectacular with glaciers, icebergs and mountains in every direction. Then there were the penguins. There were large colonies of Gentoo and also one colony of Adelie penguins in this “Adelie Gap”, where they are not usually found.

Petermann Island

We were entertained with penguin antics as they slipped and faceplanted in the soft snow. There was one penguin with a chick and one nesting on an egg. This was considered early, but the weather is very warm. We walked through the soft snow past the colonies, always giving way to penguins, of course. Sometimes it appeared that they thought our walking tracks were their penguin highways.

Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua)

Our trail led us to stunning views back towards the Drake Passage, with views of seemingly endless ocean filled with icebergs of all different sizes and shapes.

We finally got back to the boat at 7:00pm, we had a delayed dinner and reflected on what had been a remarkable day!

Day 5 Photo – Petermann Island

Sue’s Facebook Post for 12/12/25 – 13/12/25

Sue’s Facebook Post – Penguin March

Sue’s Facebook Post for 13/12/25

 

Day 6: Sunday 14/12/2025   Danco Island – Neko Glacier – Cuverville Island at Kerr Point

                                                    THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

“Every morning, you have two choices: continue to sleep with your dreams or wake up and chase them.”  Arnold Schwarzenegger

Ship’s Log: 14th Dec

                     Danco Island ZC, BL, K, SS 08:30-12:00 64°44’S / 062°37’W

                     Neko Harbor SC, ZC, BL 14:15 – 17:45 64°50’S / 062°33’W

                     Kerr Point Camping! 21:30-05:30 64°42’S / 062°38 W

Antarctica Map 13

Antarctica Map 14

Schedule:

0830 This morning, we are planning an excursion at Danco Island.

Campers! Please listen for announcements as you will be called at some point today to pick up your camping kits!

1430 This afternoon, we hope to explore Neko Harbour.

1900 Dinner for campers will be served at 1900.

1915 Dinner for all other passengers will be served at 1915.

After dinner, it will be time for camping! Listen up for announcements!

After dinner, join Randy for live music in the Seabreeze Lounge!

 

14/12/2025 8:56 – 11:40am   Seaventure – Danko Island

                                                     Zodiac Landing – Hike

                                                     THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 10.65 km
Max elevation: 162 m
Total climbing: 193 m
Total descent: -189 m
Average speed: 11.68 km/h
Total time: 02:44:38
Download file: 20251214.gpx                         Track Info

 

Today we had another jam-packed schedule. After breakfast, we cruised to the stunning Danco Island, where we were the first group on a hike up to a lower penguin colony and then a higher one at the top of the peak. The penguins must build their nests on rock, so while it seems that the nests are so far from the water where they need to forage for food, the higher areas are those that lose the snow first. We saw them carefully moving rocks with other penguins displaying distress when their rocks were stolen!

Several times, we needed to give way to penguins on their highway and to be careful to step over their thoroughfares.

Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua)

It was quite hot walking up, and after some initial ice, it was slushy. In deeper snow sections, we were sinking through the snow up to our knees. We climbed up for panoramic 360-degree views and the upper penguin colony. The weather was perfect!

We descended as quickly as we could, subject to penguin crossings, as we still had a zodiac cruise to do. When we reached the shore, we were the only ones ready for a cruise, so we were allocated to a zodiac by ourselves with Zeke for a private tour! He went anywhere we wanted and stopped to look at the Weddell seals on an iceberg, and we did a circumnavigation of Danco Island through the icy waters. Lucky us, it was amazing!

Day 6 Photos – Danko Island

Day 6 Panoramas – Danko Island

 

14/12/2025 3:15 – 4:49pm   Seaventure – Neko Harbour – Neko Glacier – Skua Nest Viewpoint

                                                  Zodiac Landing – Hike

                                                 ANTARCTICA

Total distance: 6.71 km
Max elevation: 55 m
Total climbing: 55 m
Total descent: -61 m
Average speed: 13.91 km/h
Total time: 01:44:10
Download file: 20251214p.gpx                         Track Info

 

Our activity for Neko Harbour was finally kayaking. Unfortunately, due to the wind and high temperatures (potential for glacial carving), the kayaking was postponed. Instead, we were transferred to shore near the Neko Glacier for a walk and observation of the wildlife. Here we were walking on the continent of Antarctica, which was really something! Previously, we had landed on islands. There was a Weddell seal very close to where we landed, with a giant Petrel nearby. We could smell the Gentoo penguin colony before we saw it. It was about 9 degrees this afternoon, so it felt very warm. We saw the penguins nesting on eggs; one was managing two eggs delicately.

Nesting Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua) with two exposed eggs

The Neko Glacier is huge and apparently very active. We could hear it popping and creaking. After the walk, Shay took us on a zodiac cruise where we saw penguins diving and a young humpback whale at a distance.

Southern giant petrel (Macronectes giganteus)

 

14/12/2025  ~9:00pm   Seaventure – Kerr Point – Isla de Ronge

                                          Zodiac Landing – Overnight Bivouac

                                          THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Antarctica Map 15

We returned to the boat about 5:00pm to get ready for camping tonight. We sat with Ellen and Brett in the bar. She is an older lady and is a great friend of Brett, who is several decades younger. They booked 11 months ago, as we did, and they agreed before the trip that she wouldn’t die and he wouldn’t get married. She said there was about an equal chance of both those things happening.

We were the last floor to be called for boarding to disembark, and we ended up being on the last zodiac to reach the camp on the east side of Cuverville Island at Kerr Point around 10:00pm. This was already past our bedtime, but the excitement of reaching the much-anticipated camp kept us going for a while. The light was beautiful and the evening was very mild. We settled into our bivvy bags by around 11:00pm. These were not that comfortable, but they did the job.

Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua)

I woke up around 2:00am, which was meant to be “sunrise”. Although the sun did set, it was throughout the “night” just barely below the horizon. The light was stunning, and the scenery was bathed in a pink glow. I slept a bit afterwards, but in between the snoring and the creaking and groaning of the glaciers, it was a little noisy. There were some occasionally really loud crashes, which made me sit up and look around.

 

 

 

Day 6 Photos – Neko Harbour

Day 6 Panoramas – Neko Harbour

Sue’s Facebook Post for 14/12/25

 

Day 7: Monday 15/12/2025   Isla de Ronge at Kerr Point – Seaventure – Cuverville Island

                                                     THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Ship’s Log: 15th Dec

                     Cuverville Island ZC, K, BL, SS 13:15 – 17:00 64º41’S / 062°38’W

Antarctica Map 16

Schedule:

0530 Campers will be picked up after their night on the snow!

Later this morning, we are planning a ship’s cruise and will be on the look out for wildlife! Listen for announcements and join us on deck!

TBA This afternoon, we are planning a Zodiac Cruise and a landing at Cuverville Island. Listen for announcements.

1830 Please join Maria and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for a Recap and Briefing.

1900 BBQ night! Please join us on Deck 5 in the Seabreeze Lounge for an amazing Antarctic BBQ night!

After dinner, join Randy in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for live music.

 

Overnight Bivouac – Isla de Ronge at Kerr Point – Seaventure

We were roused at 4:30am to pack up our camp. The sea fog had rolled in, and the stunning colours had dissipated. There was a Weddell seal close to camp and a few curious penguins. While we were lined up, there was a huge crash as a large avalanche exploded down a nearby cliff. Soon after, the glacier carved a large section adjacent to the zodiac landing area. It was time to leave!

Queeing for the Zodiac back to Seaventure

We were efficiently loaded onto zodiacs to transfer us back to the boat for decontamination and hanging out our damp camping gear. It was back to bed for me for a nap before our usual 8:00am breakfast. There were no activities planned for this morning, all the campers were quite weary, I’m sure.

We were cruising around looking for wildlife. Hannah, one of the guides, was excited to see a beak-nosed whale, one of the uncommon ones. We saw humpback whales in numbers, lots of penguins, of course. After lunch, we donned our dry suits for kayaking; they were a bit tight to get on!

Day 7 Photos – Kerr Point

 

15/12/2025 1:25 – 3:21pm   Seaventure – Cuverville Island

                                                  Kayaking

                                                  THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 4.85 km
Max elevation: 14 m
Total climbing: 19 m
Total descent: -19 m
Average speed: 5.75 km/h
Total time: 01:55:19
Download file: 20251215p.gpx                         Track Info

Kayak Party

Kayak Party (Photo: Sé Quirke, our kayak guide)

We were in the zodiac, which towed our kayaks and then in calm waters, we were helped to transfer into the double kayaks. It was a bit breezy, but the sun peeked through the mist. We paddled around the largest Gentoo colony in the world; they were just everywhere! 45,000 nesting pairs live here! They were diving underneath and beside our kayaks. We also saw arctic terns that were nesting around the rocky shore. These incredible birds have the longest migration of any animal. They travel from the Arctic in the northern hemisphere to Antarctica for the summer before travelling back for the northern summer.

Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua)

Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua)

We saw a large iceberg break up and turn over. It was loud and dramatic, and I was expecting big waves as a result, but they were quite small. A humpback breached quite close, and we waited to see where it would resurface. Of course, they can be dangerous and could easily flip us over, but there were no problems today.

Minke whale (Balaenoptera bonaerensis).

Seaventure

We then transferred back to the zodiac for a short ride back to the ship in time for afternoon tea.

The much-anticipated wedding between Irish couple Aiden and Audrey happened on Antarctic land (ice) in the afternoon. There was much excitement when they returned by zodiac, and we all went outside to cheer them. Audrey wore her wedding dress under her life vest, and there was a “Just Married” sign on the back of the zodiac. Afterwards, they cued up for the BBQ buffet like the rest of us.

Day 7 Photos – Cuverville Island

Sue’s Facebook Post for 14/12/25 to 15/12/25

 

Day 8: Tuesday 16/12/2025   Mikkelsen Harbour – Cieva Cove

                                                      THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

“Antarctica has this mythic weight. It resides in the collective unconscious of so many people, and it makes this huge impact, just like outer space. It’s like going to the moon”.  Jon Krakauer

Ship’s Log: 16th Dec

                      Mikkelsen Harbor ZC, K, BL 08:30 – 11:00 63°54’S / 060°47’W

                      Cierva Cove ZC 15:00 – 17:15 64°09’S / 060°53’W

Antarctica Map 17

Antarctica Map 18

Schedule:

0830 This morning, we are planning an excursion at Mikkelsen Harbour.

1430 This afternoon, we are planning a Zodiac cruise in the beautiful Cierva Cove.

1830 Please join Maria and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge for a Farewell Toast to Antarctica!

CREW SHOW!

After dinner: Join us in the Seabreeze Lounge for The Crew Show, where our ship’s crew will show us their many talents!

 

16/12/2025 9:12 – 10:52am   Seaventure – Mikkelsen Harbour – Armanda de Chile

                                                    Zodiac Cruise – Hike

                                                    THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 6.14 km
Max elevation: 1 m
Total climbing: 16 m
Total descent: -14 m
Average speed: 7.09 km/h
Total time: 01:39:10
Download file: 20251216p.gpx                         Track Info

Sadly, this was our final day in Antarctica. Our morning landing was at Mikkelsen Harbour. Here we had a short walk with more Gentoo Penguin colonies, an Argentinian research station and a Chilean marker. Shay told us at the shoreline that there were small shrimp-like creatures. I took the GoPro down to try to get some footage. They sure were tiny! Some were only a few millimetres long, others were almost a centimetre, and they were swimming in the shallow, clear pools near our disembarkation spot.

Nesting Gentoo Penguin Gentoo Penguins (Pygoscelis papua)

When we finished our walk, we had a zodiac cruise with Laura. She took us whale watching, and we got quite close to a humpback whale and saw lots of tail flukes.

Day 8 Photos – Mikkelsen Harbour

Day 8 Panoramas – Mikkelsen Harbour

 

16/12/2025 3:14 – 4:52pm   Seaventure – Orleans Strait – Trinity Island – Cierva Cove

                                                  Zodiac Cruise

                                                  THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

Total distance: 6.14 km
Max elevation: 1 m
Total climbing: 16 m
Total descent: -14 m
Average speed: 7.09 km/h
Total time: 01:39:10
Download file: 20251216p.gpx                         Track Info

 

Our afternoon excursion was a zodiac cruise around Cieva Cove. We were lucky to have Maria, the expedition leader, as our guide. We cruised to the shore and saw colonies of Chin Strap Penguins with the occasional Gentoo. It appeared that a solo Gentoo pushed a chin strap into the water! The Chin Straps seemed like they were going to jump off the rocks into the water, but they were again frozen by indecision! We saw a single Adelie penguin on an iceberg.

Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)

We saw a few seals resting on icebergs, and then the whale show began. There were lots of humpback whales, some in groups, and they seemed to have us surrounded! One of the zodiacs was very close to a whale, but maybe not as close as it appeared from a distance. This was our last excursion, which is a little sad. Tonight, we make our way towards the Drake Passage.

Day 8 Photos – Cierva Cove

 

Day 9: Wednesday 17/12/2025   Drake Passage

                                                            ARGENTINA – SOUTHERN OCEAN

Ship’s Log: 09th

                     Dec Drake Passage

Antarctica Map 19

Cape Petrel (Daptioh capense)

Schedule:

0930 Citizen Science! Please join Lisa and the team outside on Deck 5 aft where we will conduct a Seabird Survey.

1030 Please join Hannah L in the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 for her talk, “Marine Mammals of Antarctica”.

1130 Citizen Science! Please join Tracy and the team outside on Deck 7 for Cloud Observation Data

Collection.

1400 Please join Hannah J in the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 for her talk, “The Discovery of Antarctica”.

1500 OPEN BRIDGE Please note the following:

-Please sign up at reception (10 people per group max.) -10 minutes per group -You may only enter through the bridge wings.

-Please meet at Reception.

1615 Please join Tracy in the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 for his presentation, “Climate Change in

Antarctica”.

1800 Please join Krista in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for a very important Disembarkation Briefing.

Immediately following, please join Maria and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for our Final Recap and Briefing!

 

I felt like I had a bit of a cold when I woke up. For the next 6 days, we don’t have much more to do than travel the long distance home via boat, bus, plane and train.

The swell was greater than on the way over. The captain said up to 3 metres but it was coming in the right direction. I started the day with ginger tablets and my wrist bands, which seemed to do the trick. We went to a lecture on marine mammals but nearly fell asleep. Kerrie was feeling nauseous unfortunately, and missed lunch. The rest of us were feeling sleepy, which Leo said was due to the forward/back rocking motion.

After lunch, we attended a lecture by Hannah on “Discovering Antarctica – its human history”. It was interesting and entertaining.

Day 9 Photos – Drake Passage

 

Day 10: Thursday 18/12/2025   Drake Passage – Ushuaia

                                                          SOUTHERN OCEAN – ARGENTINA

Ship’s Log:  19th Dec

                       Ushuaia 54°48’5 / 068°18 W

Antarctica Map 20

Schedule:

0915 Join fellow passenger Scott in the Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 to hear about some of his Adventures in Antarctica.

1015 OPEN BRIDGE Please note the following:

-Please sign up at reception (10 people per group max.)

-10 minutes per group -You may only enter through the bridge wings.

-Please meet at Reception.

1115 Join Kelly in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for an interactive discussion about “Antarctic Ambassadorship”.

1345 Join Hannah J, Santi, and Zeke in The Expedition Lounge on Deck 7 for a Q&A Panel to learn more about their experiences living and working on bases in Antarctica.

1445 Citizen Science! Please join Lisa and the team outside on Deck 5 aft where we will conduct a Seabird Survey.

1530 Please join Vegar and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 to vote on the winners of the Photo Contest!

Immediately following, please join us in the Seabreeze Lounge (Deck 5) for a fun filled Charity Auction to raise funds for Better Blue, Happy Whale, and our Crew’s Fund!

1830 Please join Captain Arsen and the crew in the Seabreeze Lounge for the Captain’s Farewell Cocktail!

Immediately following, please join Maria and the team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for the Expedition Team’s Farewell.

After dinner, join The Expedition Team in the Seabreeze Lounge on Deck 5 for our Voyage Slideshow! Afterwards, join Randy for live music!

 

The swell was apparently up to 4 metres, and many people are feeling the effects. We attended Scott’s lecture on Antarctica expeditions which was very interesting. He has scaled all the highest peaks on the seven continents and is an Antarctic and Polar guide, one of only 35 in the world. He said it may sound impressive, but the demand isn’t high.

Afterwards, we visited the bridge where they answered any questions we had on the operations. Luckily for me, I experienced no signs of nausea despite the swell. We all just felt very sleepy, but that is much better than feeling sick.

We were occupied during the day with Citizen Science activities and other lectures on the crew’s Antarctic experiences. Our once in a lifetime experience was sadly coming to an end.

We arrived back in Ushuaia the following morning, and we bid farewell to the crew and other passengers. We will be forever grateful for this amazing experience, and it’s going to be tough to improve on this trip!

Day 10 Photos –  Drake Passage – Ushuaia

Day 10 Panorama – Drake Passage – Ushuaia

 

Day 11: Thursday 19/12/2025   Ushuaia

“Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.”  Dr. Seuss

Ship’s Log: 19th Dec

                      Ushuaia 54°48’5 / 068°18 W

Schedule:

0630 Wake up call. Please have your checked luggage outside your door before 0630.

This morning, please visit reception to finalize your onboard account if necessary.

0800 Disembarkation. Please listen for announcements as we will call you to depart based on your final destination.

Ushuaia

Sue’s Facebook Post for 15/12/25 – 19/12/25

 

Collectively observed during this trip were each of the following species:

Penguins

Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua), Adelie Penguin (Pygoscelis adeliae), Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus), Chinstrap Penguin (Pygoscelis antarcticus)

Albatross

Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris), Grey-headed Albatross (Thalassarche chrysostoma), Light-mantled Albatross (Phoebetria palpebrata)

Petrels and Shearwaters

Northern Giant Petrel (Macronectes halli), Southern Giant Petrel (Macronectes giganteus), Southern Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialoides), Antarctic Petrel (Thalassoica antarctica), Cape/Pintado Petrel (Daption capense), Blue Petrel (Halobaena caerulea, Antarctic Prion (Pachyptila desolata), White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis), Wilson’s Storm-Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus), Slender-billed prion (Pachiptila belcheri)

Shags

Rock Shag/Magellanic Cormorant (Leucocarbo magellanicus)

Gulls and Terns

Dolphin Gull (Leucophaeus scoresbii), Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus), Antarctic Tern (Sterna vittata), South American Tern (Sterna hirundinacea)

Sheathbills

Snowy sheathbill (Chionis albus)

Seals

South American Sea Lion (Otaria flavescens), Leopard Seal (Hydrurga leptonyx), Crabeater Seal (Lobodon carcinophagus), Southern Elephant (Seal Mirounga leonina), Weddell Seal (Leptonychotes weddellii)

Whales and Dolphins

Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae), Fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus), Antarctic Minke Whale (Balaeonptera bonaerensis), Orca (Orcinus orca), Dusky Dolphin (Aethalodelphis obscurus)

 

Map View

Clickable icons on this world map will open the related trip report

Contents

A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries and other content

The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)

Danco Island, Neko Harbour and Kerr Point near Cuverville Island – lie within a highly glaciated fjord landscape on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula, centred on the Gerlache Strait and the adjoining Errera Channel and coastal embayments.

Landscape features and scenic highlights

The immediate landscape is dominated by steep, ice‑clad peninsulas and islands rising abruptly from sea level to peaks often exceeding 1 000 metres, with Danco Island itself forming a small, roughly 1.6 kilometre long dome whose snow slopes descend to narrow cobble and snow beaches.  Neko Harbour presents a contrast between a short beach and rocky outcrop and a backdrop of heavily crevassed glaciers that regularly calve into the enclosed bay, while Kerr Point on Cuverville Island lies at the interface between a largely ice‑covered island and the iceberg‑filled waters of the Errera Channel.

Scenic highlights in this near‑vicinity include panoramic views from the summit slopes of Danco Island across the Errera Channel to surrounding mountain ranges, close‑range observation of active tidewater glacier fronts such as Neko Glacier, and the spectacle of drifting and sometimes rolling icebergs ranging in size from small growlers to multi‑storey tabular forms.  In calm conditions, the sheltered bays and channels provide mirror‑like reflections of peaks and ice cliffs, while in dynamic weather they become arenas for katabatic winds, blowing snow and sudden shifts in visibility that underscore the environmental volatility of the region.

Geology and glaciology

Geologically, the surrounding Danco Coast of Graham Land is underlain by a suite of Mesozoic sedimentary and volcanic rocks intruded by igneous bodies, which have been deformed and metamorphosed as part of the Antarctic Peninsula orogenic belt.  During successive Quaternary glaciations, outlet glaciers from the peninsula ice sheet carved deep, U‑shaped troughs now occupied by the Gerlache Strait, Errera Channel and associated fjords, while smaller cirque glaciers sculpted basins and over‑steepened slopes on islands such as Danco and Cuverville.

The contemporary cryospheric setting is characterised by tidewater glaciers that discharge ice directly into the sea, generating a persistent flux of icebergs and brash ice and producing the creaking, popping and calving events noted by visitors at sites like Neko Harbour.  Oceanographically, the near‑surface waters of the Gerlache Strait and adjacent bays are nutrient‑rich and support high primary productivity, forming part of a larger regional frontal system that structures phytoplankton communities and, in turn, the food web that sustains krill, fish, seabirds and marine mammals.

Local flora

Terrestrial plant life in this near‑vicinity is extremely sparse due to low temperatures, ice cover and strong winds, with vegetation limited to ice‑free rocky outcrops, sheltered slopes and ornithogenic soils enriched by penguin guano.  Typical flora include Antarctic hair grass (Deschampsia antarctica) and Antarctic pearlwort (Colobanthus quitensis), alongside a diverse assemblage of lichens, mosses and algal films that colonise rock faces, boulder fields and soil patches adjacent to penguin colonies and seal haul‑out sites.

In the marine realm, phytoplankton – particularly diatoms and dinoflagellates – form dense summer blooms within the upper mixed layer of the Gerlache Strait and nearby nearshore zones, serving as the base of the productive pelagic ecosystem that makes these waters a focal point for whales and other higher trophic levels.  Sea ice algae and benthic microalgae also contribute to local primary production, especially in areas subject to seasonal ice cover and iceberg scouring.

Local fauna

The most conspicuous fauna in the immediate area are seabirds and marine mammals adapted to the Southern Ocean environment. Gentoo penguins (Pygoscelis papua) maintain substantial breeding colonies on Danco Island, Cuverville Island and at Neko Harbour, often nesting on snow‑free rocky slopes well above the shoreline and commuting along “penguin highways” to feeding grounds in the surrounding channels.  These colonies are accompanied by scavenging and predatory birds, including south polar skuas, kelp gulls and southern giant petrels, which patrol nesting sites and carcasses.

Marine mammal assemblages in this sector of the Antarctic Peninsula are notably rich: humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) aggregate in the Gerlache Strait and adjacent bays to exploit dense swarms of Antarctic krill (Euphausia superba), leading to frequent sightings of feeding and travelling pods from ships and small craft.  Other regularly observed species in the near‑vicinity include minke whales, Weddell seals, crabeater seals and, less commonly, leopard seals (Hydrurga leptonyx), which may be encountered resting on ice floes but are apex predators in the local food web.

Indigenous history and Country

Unlike regions such as Patagonia or Aotearoa New Zealand, the Antarctic Peninsula and its offshore islands show no evidence of pre‑modern human settlement or Indigenous societies originating in situ; there are no known Indigenous peoples whose Country traditionally encompasses Danco Island, Neko Harbour or Cuverville Island.

White history and contemporary activity

The “white” history of this near‑vicinity is embedded in the broader narrative of European exploration, exploitation and scientific investigation of the Southern Ocean. Early twentieth‑century whaling vessels used sheltered coves such as Neko Harbour as occasional anchorages and processing sites, and an Argentine refuge hut was established there in 1949, remaining intermittently occupied until its destruction in a storm in 2009.  Danco Island itself was the site of a British research station, Base O, operated by the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey between 1956 and 1959 before being abandoned; remnants of this activity persist as historical artefacts within the contemporary protected‑area management regime.

In the later twentieth and early twenty‑first centuries, the region has become a key node in Antarctic expedition cruising, with vessels operating under the Antarctic Treaty’s Environmental Protocol and the guidelines of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators.  Landings at Danco Island, Neko Harbour and nearby sites such as Cuverville Island are now tightly regulated, with limits on visitor numbers, biosecurity procedures to reduce the transfer of organisms, minimum approach distances to wildlife and spatial zoning to protect nesting areas, exemplifying a shift from extractive to ostensibly conservation‑oriented forms of engagement that nonetheless raise ongoing questions about cumulative impacts on a highly sensitive polar environment.

Map View

Clickable icons on this world map will open the related trip report

Contents

A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries and other content

Loading

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.