Thursday 2/03/2023 North Gardens Campground – Walhalla – Australian Alps Walking Track – Mormon Town Track – Britannia Spur Track – Main Road
Walhalla Historic Area, VICTORIA
Gunaikurnai Country
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos, Report), Sue Davies
Wahalla is the starting point for the 680km Australian Alps Walking track which finishes at Tharwa, just outside of Canberra. Maybe we will do it one day but on this trip, we are just sampling eastern Victoria. Walhalla became a boom town in after the discovery of gold in 1862 and today has retained its heritage exceptionally well. Almost all the buildings are historical and there is a great opportunity to gain an understanding of Victoria’s most productive gold mining towns of the time by walking around town and reading the many Parks Victoria historical signs.
Max elevation: 668 m
Total climbing: 2097 m
Total descent: -2091 m
Average speed: 5.27 km/h
Total time: 05:10:41
Today we departed from our free campsite at North Gardens Campground to walk into Wahalla and up onto the Tramway Track. From here there are great views over parts of the historic township, which is nestled in the narrow valley of Stringers Creek. The surrounding hillsides are heavily forested and along the early stages of The Australian Alps Walking Track, there are plenty of ferns on the understory. Although the track is quite wide, at the moment there is a section where the understory has overgrown most of the track.
Walhalla
The 7km of Australian Alps Walking Track that we followed today follows the contours around the hillside, so they’re almost level over that distance. Today as we reached the Mormon Town Track junction just before the Thomson River we were greeted with a track closure sign, as the footbridge upstream has been deemed dangerous and is closed, walkers are required to walk down Mormon Town Track to the road and cross the Thomson River at the road bridge.
Our choice today was to return to Wahalla up and along the ridge following Mormon Town Track. The first section involves a fairly steep climb of 240m before it undulates over several bumps along the ridge. As you climb the vegetation changes, the drier ridgetops having grass trees (Xanthorrhoea australis) noticeable amongst the understory and sections of spectacular and tall Mountain Ash.
Mountain Grey Gum (Eucalyptus cypellocarpa)forest beside along Mormon Town Track
I was interested in this track from a non-walking perspective today as well. Our new AT Campervan is supposed to be a capable off-road vehicle (limited somewhat by its long wheelbase and 220mm ground clearance). The Newtracs iPhone app claims it is capable of managing its blue-rated tracks (using the skiing green, blue, and black grading system). As this Mormon Town Track was rated blue I got the chance to see what I thought. After completing the walk I was very glad the thought of driving hadn’t entered my mind. There were several water drainage humps I doubt very much I would have succeeded in getting over, a section of bushes that would have down a lot of duco scratching and a fallen tree at the Stringers Creek crossing that may have been just a little too low to drive under.
Needless to say, I was very glad to be walking it. Earlier, Sue and I parted company as she had already completed a 7km run before the walk. She descended via the Telecom Track which was a quite steep descent with a very noticeable change in vegetation along the way, with plenty of beautiful ferns lower down.
From that point, I continued north along the Mormon Town Track before heading back to the road along the Britannia Track. I also had a steep descent back down to Stringers Creek and saw the same transition of vegetation. A steep ascent out of the creek took me back to Main Road which I followed back to North Gardens Campground – the road passed by the Chinese Gardens campsite. Back in the mining days a lot of Chinese people set up market gardens to provide fresh produce to be sold in Walhalla.
Information on NSW National Parks signage along the way
Ancient and unique
Taking in the nation’s highest peaks, the Australian Alps national parks protect unique alpine habitats, spectacular landscapes, vital water catchments and rich human heritage.
Most people visit the Australian Alps to experience nature and to enjoy their leisure time. Along the way, the track passes through the spectacular country: tranquil snow gum woodlands; fields of alpine flowers, towering eucalypt forests and remote grassy plains.
The Australian Alps Walking Track ..
650 kilometres of mountainous and often remote walking. Along the way, the track passes through grassy high plains, towering mountain forests, tranquil snow gum woodlands and rugged alpine summits.
Thousands of years ago Aboriginal ancestors formed intricate pathways across this whole region. Their journeys were to find food and conduct spiritual, cultural and important intertribal business.
Early settlers are known to have followed these routes or were guided into the high country. by Aboriginal people. Today the Australian Alps Walking Track overlies many of these ancient pathways – a shared significance that links people, places, times and events.
Take a short walk along the Australian Alps Walking Track
As you walk to Thomson Bridge (an easy 8km or 3 hours return) you will follow an old timber tramway as it twists through ferny gullies high above Stringers Creek. It is hard to believe that these hills were once stripped completely bare as every stick of timber was harvested for use by the mines. Imagine the wood being hauled by horses along this tramway.
By 1899, the mines around Walhalla were using an incredible 34 000 tonnes of timber each year to fuel the boilers and to support the mine shafts.
You can leave the Australian Alps Walking Track at Mormontown 4WD Track by following it down 600 metres to Thomson Bridge, or you can continue on the walking track to the Old Steel Bridge (16km or 7 hours return). This bridge was constructed in 1900 to access the vast forests on the slopes of Mt. Erica.
The bridge cost $1500 to build or about six times more than a miner could hope to earn in a year.
The Australian Alps Walking Track crosses the Thomson River at the Old Steel Bridge and begins its longest single climb to the Baw Baw Plateau, and eventually on to Canberra.
The local flora, fauna, geology, history and some other walks (ChatGPT)
Walhalla, a once thriving gold mining town nestled deep in the lush forests of Victoria, that was once home to a rich and diverse array of flora and fauna.
The flora of Walhalla was a mix of towering eucalyptus trees, ferns, and shrubs, all of which had adapted to the unique environment of the region. The undergrowth was thick and lush, providing a perfect habitat for a wide range of wildlife.
Speaking of wildlife, Walhalla was home to a variety of unique and interesting creatures. Kangaroos, wallabies, and echidnas could be seen hopping and shuffling through the undergrowth, while birdwatchers could delight in the sight of cockatoos, rosellas, and parrots flitting through the trees. The nearby rivers and streams were home to a variety of fish, including trout and native species such as the Murray Cod.
The geology of Walhalla was shaped by the gold rush that brought settlers to the area in the 1860s. The town itself was built on the slopes of a steep valley, surrounded by towering cliffs and rocky outcrops. The rivers and creeks that flowed through the valley were rich in gold, leading to a rush of prospectors and miners who hoped to strike it rich.
The history of Walhalla is steeped in the story of the gold rush that brought settlers to the area. The town grew quickly as miners flooded into the area, building homes, businesses, and infrastructure to support the booming industry. The gold rush eventually declined, leaving Walhalla as a sleepy and isolated town that eventually became a popular destination for tourists seeking a glimpse into the region’s rich history.
Today, visitors to Walhalla can explore a variety of different walks and trails that showcase the natural beauty and cultural history of the town and its surroundings. The Walhalla Goldfields Railway is a popular attraction that takes visitors on a scenic journey through the stunning landscape of the region.
Other walks, such as the Stringers Creek Trail, take visitors through the lush and diverse woodland areas of the town, where they can see a variety of plant and animal life up close.
Overall, Walhalla is a truly remarkable place, offering a glimpse into the natural and cultural history of this part of Victoria. While the gold rush may be a thing of the past, the beauty and wonder of the landscape and the wildlife that call it home remain as awe-inspiring as ever.
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Sue on the Australian Alps Walking Track near Wahalla
