2/12/2025 – 5/12/2025 Huemel Circuit
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Los Glaciares National Park)
Area Lago Viedma
Santa Cruz Province, ARGENTINA
Distance: 75.8km Time: 34 hours
Total Ascent: 2695m Total Descent: 2803m
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos), Sue Davies (Report), Pedro Navarro (Guide), Patrizia Schäffnerl, Valentina Sobol (Porter)
The Huemul Circuit is not a casual stroll but a full immersion into the raw weather, vast ice and big skies of southern Patagonia. From the moment our small team left El Chaltén and Monte Fitz Roy faded behind us, daily life was replaced by a rhythm of boggy lenga forest, wind‑buffeted passes, creek crossings and evenings spent drying gear beside lakes.
Guided by Pedro, with our porter, Valentina, carrying a very heavy pack and an endless supply of good humour, we circled Cerro Huemul above Lago Viedma, twice crossed the Río Túnel by Tyrolean traverses, and crunched over glacial ice while storms and sun took turns sweeping the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. This report aims to capture an experience that tested creaky knees and comfort zones, but rewarded us with a guanaco on a perfect backdrop, rare orchids, and the quiet satisfaction of finishing one of South America’s toughest and most beautiful treks.
Day 1: Wednesday 2/12/2025 El Chalten – Rio Fitz Roy – Centro de Visitantes Guardaparque – Portal Los Cóndore – Vuelta al Huemul – Vuelta al Hielo – Arroyo Piedritas – Rio Túnel – Arroyo Oxidado – Laguna Túnel Superior and Glaciar Rio Tunel Superior o de Quervain – Laguna Toro Campground
Patricia “Challenge Accepted” Steve “Into the Wild”
Sue “Spectacular scenery and soggy feet”
Valentina “Rain and sun” Pedro “New flowers”
Max elevation: 1055 m
Total climbing: 799 m
Total descent: -573 m
Average speed: 3.59 km/h
Total time: 07:59:52
We met at the Los Glacieres National Park Office at 10:00am. The morning was sunny and a little windy. We set off climbing gradually on a formed trail. The views of Monte Fitz Roy, also known as Chalten (smoky mountain) in the indigenous language, were outstanding. The native people thought it was a volcano.
We then entered a lenga forest with some boggy sections. This was the theme of the day, stepping on wobbly logs over streams and boggy areas.
We stopped for lunch in the forest before the pass in a grassy patch amongst orchids.
We reached the top and walked along an open field strewn with wildflowers. The views were unbelievable! We were surrounded by towering peaks and stunning meadows.
Fitz Roy from small pond along Vuelta al Hielo (Trail)
We started to descend with fantastic views down the valley where we were headed. The wind picked up and buffeted us. There was more boggy terrain and a creek crossing requiring us to take off our shoes before we reached camp. The wind was quite gusty, and we had some light rain as we walked along the valley.
On arrival at camp, Valentina, our porter, already had our tent set up. As the conditions were quite cold, we changed our clothes. We had our first meal of the trip, polenta and dehydrated vegetables.
Sue crossing small creek along Vuelta al Huemul
The camp is quite sheltered relatively, and there were wooden barriers constructed from tree branches between the sites to help reduce the wind. Pedro gave us the rundown on a tough day tomorrow. There was a fine, gritty dust over everything in the tent.
The weather changed overnight, with the wind howling up the valley and light rain. We found out that Pedro was actually a trained Physics teacher like Steve, but he preferred his current role as he loved being outdoors.
Day 2: Thursday 3/12/2025 Laguna Toro Campground – Vuelta al Huemul – Río Túnel – Tyrolean traverse – Laguna Túnel Toro – Paso Del Viento – Campamento Paso del Viento – Refugio Paso del Viento
Pedro “After the rain” Patricia “Iceage”
Valentina “Immensity” Sue “A wild ride” Steve “TT1”
Max elevation: 1436 m
Total climbing: 1025 m
Total descent: -751 m
Average speed: 2.47 km/h
Total time: 09:34:19
The peaks were obscured by fog in the morning, the wind had increased, and the rain persisted. Our wake-up time was 6:30am, but around that time, Pedro came to our tent to tell us breakfast was delayed for an hour as the weather was predicted to improve later. As the weather seemed so poor in the morning, I was thinking we would be heading back to El Chalten, but I had faith in Pedro to make the right call.
We finally set off at 10:00am. It was very cold, windy and raining as we walked along the shores of the Lago Terro. We then climbed up a rocky slope and eventually arrived at the spot to do our Tyrolean traverse (zip line) across Rio Túnel. There was a group ahead of us, and Pedro helped them so it would be quicker for us. Steve was first and managed well. Next was Patricia, and then it was my turn. Valentina clipped me in and gave me confidence that I could do it. Luckily, you are facing the sky, so I couldn’t see the raging river and gorge below. It was a heart starter! (Steve – I was trying to look down whilst crossing and was very disappointed that I couldn’t twist around far enough to see the view below!). Pedro helped me to upclip and climb across the steep edge.
Sue on Tyrolean traverse over Río Túnel
Our next challenge for the day was walking across the glacier. We first had to negotiate the steep slopes of glacial moraine before reaching the Tunel (named after the tunnel caused by the river running underneath it) glacier itself. Surprisingly, it wasn’t that slippery. Although, of course, I managed to fall over a few times.
We walked over and around the glacier with some glimpses of blue ice. From here, it was a 20-minute climb up to our sheltered lunch spot. Then we commenced a long, rocky ascent up to the Pass of Wind (Paso del Viento), which took about 2 hours. We walked through snow for a while as we ascended closer to the pass. As we walked higher, the clouds lifted, and we had incredible views of the Tunel glacier, the lake and the surrounding peaks.
Pedro, Patrizia and Sue brouching the toe of Glaciar Rio Túnel Inferior
There was virtually no wind at the Windy Pass, so it really did not live up to its name, not that we were complaining! If the wind is too strong, it is not possible to complete this section safely, so we were fortunate!
Southern Patagonian Icefield from Paso del Viento
Soon, we came to the Viedma Glacier and saw the extent of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. It was massive! In places, it is 50km wide, and it seems to be an endless sea of snow and ice. There is an island in the middle of the glacier, which was incredible. It was awe-inspiring! We descended on fine scree, and then it was a gentle few kilometres down the valley, and we then followed a stream to the campsite by the lake. The small Refugio Paso del Viento also sits by the lake. We arrived soon after 7:00pm. It was a beautiful spot, and we felt like we had had an epic day. We finally had dinner at 9:30pm, and we were in bed after 10:00pm!
Day 3: Friday 4/12/2025 Campamento Paso del Viento – Paso Huemul – Bosque de Lengas (Lenga Forest) – Campamento Bahía de los Témpanos (Iceberg Bay) – Viedma Lake (“Iceberg Lake”)
Patricia “Third Day” Pedro “From inside the hood”
Valentina “Empowered forest (bigger flowers)”
Sue “It’s a long way down” Steve “Glacial Retreat”
Max elevation: 1026 m
Total climbing: 685 m
Total descent: -1313 m
Average speed: 2.75 km/h
Total time: 08:59:02
It was a windy and cold night. We awoke to light snow in the morning, which made the challenge of climbing up the rocky hill behind the camp to go to the toilet even greater. We had breakfast in the shelter, which was most welcome as it was cold!
We followed a creek, and the trail was amongst glacial moraine as we walked close to the Viedma Glacier. Thankfully, the strong wind was to our backs! The glacier is about 40 km long, and we walked 12 of those kilometres. Although it was misty with rain and snow, it was incredible to have views of this monster of ice and rock.
Viedma Glacier from track above Glaciar Viedma below Paso Huemul
We then headed upwards for our pass of the day. I managed to fall into the river while crossing it when a gust of wind set me off balance just as I was stepping across. The views improved as we climbed, and after a few hours we reached the rocky pass of Paso Huemul. After a short descent, we stopped for lunch even as the showers continued.
Pedro, Patrizia and Sue at Paso Huemul (1012m)
We then commenced the long-anticipated descent. There were lovely wildflowers at the side of the trail. It wasn’t too steep initially, but it was muddy and slippery in sections. Pedro told us that the trail condition was actually better with a little rain on it, as it’s usually dry and dusty. He set up a rope for us on the trickier parts, which helped. We descended 800m in 2km, so it was steep! The views as we descended towards “Iceberg Lake” were incredible!
Steep descent towards Bahía de los Témpanos (Bay of Icebergs)
Before we knew it, we had reached camp on the shores of Iceberg Lake. It was our reward after another long 9-hour day.
The lake is 900m deep and the fifth deepest lake in the world. It was quite surreal to be camped beside a lake shrouded by mountains with icebergs floating around just in front of us.
Bahía de los Témpanos (Bay of Icebergs) from Campamento Bahía de los Témpanos
Bahía de los Témpanos (Bay of Icebergs)
Bahía de los Témpanos (Bay of Icebergs)
Bahía de los Témpanos (Bay of Icebergs)
We felt quite good at the end of day 3, despite it being our second 9-hour day in a row. We were also thankful that we had arrived at camp safely.
Day 4: Saturday 5/12/2025 Campamento Bahía de los Témpanos – Bahía de los Témpanos (Bay of Icebergs) – Bahía Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn Bay) – Viedma Lake – Balia Tünel – Río Túnel – Tyrolean traverse – Puerto Bahía Túnel – Aventura Viedma
Patricia “Indescribable” Pedro “Not a drop”
Sue “Awesome mountain scenery, a glacier, lakes and a Guanaco”
Valentina “Summer days” Steve “A sad departure”
Max elevation: 515 m
Total climbing: 501 m
Total descent: -486 m
Average speed: 3.76 km/h
Total time: 07:10:12
The weather had cleared, and it was a beautiful morning as we admired our incredible views from the campground. It was a bit sad to leave this unique place. We were on the trail by 9:00am.
For the final day, I was expecting a straightforward walk out but the Huemul Trail did not disappoint us on the final day. The views were phenomenal! With clear weather, we could see where we had hiked yesterday, and Mount Huemul revealed itself in all its majesty.
We walked along the shores of the lake, and we were lucky enough to see a Guanaco (a member of the camel family) running along the lake shore and rolling in the dirt. It had positioned itself perfectly with the mountains in the background for us to get great photos.
Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) at Bahía Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn Bay)
As we continued, we left the shores of the lake to enjoy views of the terminus of the Viedma Glacier. We had done an ice climbing trip there in 2017, so it brought back fond memories.
Valentina spotted the less common porcelain orchid, which was stunning! Soon we were walking along the shores of Lago Viedma, which had a few icebergs floating in it.
Shoreline of Bahía Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn Bay)
Then it was time for our final Tyrolean Traverse. This one was quite different as it was longer, but we were not as high as the previous one. We Tyrolian traversed (zip-lined) up to the middle and then needed to propel ourselves by hand to the other side. We were all experts by this time, so we crossed over fairly easily!
Patrizia on Tyrolean traverse across Río Túnel
From here, it was just a few kilometres to complete our trek, and we arrived at the Bahia Tunel around 3:30pm. A shuttle was organized to take us back to El Chalten. We felt happy to have completed the trek safely, but a bit sad that our awesome experience was over. This walk had tested us physically and mentally, and we were very thankful that we had organised a guide and Porter to make it easier for ourselves. It also enhanced our experience by gaining local knowledge and meeting other like-minded people. Pedro told us we were the oldest people he had guided, so we felt chuffed that we could still do such a challenging hike and enjoy it.
Amongst other photographically recorded observations during this walk, we were able to confirm sightings of each of the following species: Balsam-Bog (Bolax gummifera), Oxalis laciniata, Darwin’s Slipper (Calceolaria uniflora), Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe (Attagis gayi), Fuegian Saxifrage (Saxifraga magellanica), Oreopolus glacialis, Tribe Eudemeae, Oreopolus glacialis, Southern Beeches (Genus Nothofagus), Lenga Beech (Nothofagus pumilio), Common Evening Primrose (Oenothera stricta), Western Giant Puffball (Calvatia booniana), Peeling Puffball (Lycoperdon marginatum), Upland Goose (Chloephaga picta), Guanaco (Lama guanicoe), Mosaic Puffball (Lycoperdon utriforme), Porcelain Orchid (Chloraea magellanica), Mother-in-law Cushion (Azorella prolifera), Cat’s-Ears (Hypochaeris radicata), Adesmia boronioides, Sweet-Brier (Rosa rubiginosa)
Our final thoughts on this 4-day trip:
Sue “An epic adventure” Pedro “The most beautiful trail”
Steve “Endless epic scenery and miraculous survival of creeky knees” Patricia “Pura Vida” Valentina “A very heavy backpack”
The Huemul has been described as one of the toughest walks in South America for its remoteness and dangerous terrain. This was the main reason we decided to do a guided walk. We felt it was much safer to have the guidance in unfamiliar terrain. I wanted assistance with the Tyrolian Traverses, as we haven’t done that before, and we felt safe knowing we were guided by experts. Thank you to Pedro for his excellent guiding and to Valentina for carrying our gear and setting up the tent at night. She is also a guide and was very supportive and knowledgeable. Thanks to Patricia for your company and for changing dates to accommodate us.
The Huemul Circuit, wow!
Wild Adventures Facebook Posts
Fire Threatens Rare Forests in Argentina, NASA – 8/1/2026
Fire Reports as of 12/1/2026
The Huemul Circuit near Río Túnel is currently closed due to a major forest fire, with several hundred hectares burned in the area and key sections of the trek off-limits.
Current fire status
•The fire started in the first days of January 2026 in the area near the Vuelta al Huemul (Huemul Circuit) in Los Glaciares National Park, close to the Río Túnel and Bahía de los Témpanos.
•The fire was reported as uncontrolled as of the latest detailed field update, with authorities using ground brigades and a water‑bomber aircraft to contain it.
Area burned
•A situation report relayed via park updates and satellite data estimated that around 340 hectares had burned in the Huemul/Río Túnel sector alone.
•Broader reports on Patagonia fires note many thousands of hectares affected region‑wide, but for this specific incident near the Huemul Circuit, the figure cited for burned area is in the low hundreds of hectares.
Track and area closures
•The entire Huemul Circuit / Vuelta al Cerro Huemul is closed until further notice, as announced by National Parks and reiterated by local guides and park staff.
•Access to associated routes and sites in the affected sector is also closed, including:
•Huemul Circuit main loop
•Approaches around Bahía de los Témpanos, Refugio Paso del Viento, and Campamento Laguna Toro (used to reach Paso del Viento from Laguna Toro)
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The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)
The Huemul Circuit traverses high Andean valleys, glacial passes and the shore of Lago Viedma on the eastern margin of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, within the southern sector of Los Glaciares National Park.
Landscape and scenic highlights
The circuit ascends from El Chaltén’s steppe–forest ecotone through the Río Fitz Roy and Río Túnel valleys into a classic U‑shaped glacial landscape, with lateral moraines, hanging valleys and broad outwash plains.
Key scenic highlights include Laguna Toro beneath Cerro Huemul, the crossing of Glaciar Túnel, the high vantage of Paso del Viento over the South Patagonian Ice Field, and the subsequent traverse above the Viedma Glacier to Paso Huemul and Bahía de los Témpanos on Lago Viedma, where stranded icebergs accumulate in a narrow bay.
Geology and glaciology
The region lies in the Andean Patagonian Cordillera, where resistant granitic and metamorphic rocks have been sculpted by repeated Pleistocene and Holocene glaciations into sharp ridges, arêtes and horn peaks around Monte Fitz Roy and Cerro Huemul.
Along the Huemul Circuit the track repeatedly crosses unconsolidated till and glacial moraines, skirts the debris‑covered lower tongue of Glaciar Túnel, and then parallels the heavily crevassed Viedma Glacier, which drains part of the ice field before calving into the over‑deepened, approximately 900 m deep Lago Viedma basin.
Local flora
In the lower valleys near El Chaltén and the early sections towards Laguna Toro, the dominant forest is subantarctic Nothofagus woodland, particularly lenga beech (Nothofagus pumilio), with ñire (Nothofagus antarctica) and guindo or coihue (Nothofagus betuloides) in moister sites.
With altitude, the forest gives way to krummholz, shrubland and alpine meadows with cushion plants and herbfields; common wildflowers in summer include orchids, composite daisies and various Patagonian endemics adapted to windy, nutrient‑poor, glacially derived soils.
Local fauna
Los Glaciares supports a characteristic assemblage of Patagonian Andean fauna: large mammals include guanaco (Lama guanicoe), puma (Puma concolor) and the highly threatened huemul deer (Hippocamelus bisulcus) after which the circuit is named.
The avifauna along the route is rich, with Andean condor, black‑chested buzzard‑eagle, torrent duck on glacial rivers and a variety of passerines and ground birds such as Darwin’s rhea (choique) in more open steppe sectors near the park boundary and Lago Viedma.
Indigenous history and Country
The broader Lago Viedma–El Chaltén area lies within the traditional territories of the Tehuelche or Aónikenk people, mobile hunter‑gatherers who occupied eastern Patagonia and used the Andean valleys seasonally for guanaco and ñandú hunting and plant gathering.
The Aónikenk recognised the smoking banner clouds above Monte Fitz Roy and neighbouring peaks, naming the mountain Chaltén (“smoking mountain”) and incorporating it into a cultural landscape structured around movement along rivers such as the Río Santa Cruz and Lago Viedma shorelines.
White history and park establishment
European incursions into this part of Patagonia intensified in the nineteenth century with exploratory journeys along the Río Santa Cruz and subsequent sheep‑ranching expansion, which displaced and decimated Tehuelche communities through disease, violence and loss of access to game.
Los Glaciares National Park was created in 1937 and later inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional glacial systems and dramatic Andean scenery; the founding of El Chaltén in the 1980s consolidated the area as a trekking hub, with the Huemul Circuit emerging as a challenging secondary route that now illustrates ongoing tensions between conservation, adventure tourism and the recovery of Indigenous presence in park narratives.
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