22/04/1989 – 28/04/1989 Manatee Glacier – Polychrome Ridge – Obelia Peak – Wahoo Tower – Oluk Peak
Pacific Ranges (Coast Mountains)
BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA
Distance: 70km Total Ascent: 8000m Total Descent: 8000m
Participants: Stephen Campbell, Simon Coates, Peter Davies, Stephen Davies (Photos, Report), Sue Davies, Colin Evans, Rienhart Fabish, Simon Gabbot, Klaus Haring, Craig Hollinger, Mike Thompson (Report), Tim Webb, Christina Williams, Doug Williams
Aussie Contingent: Stephen Campbell, Peter Davies, Stephen Davies, Sue Davies
Climbers and Skiers: Colin Evans, Rienhart Fabish, Klaus Haring, Craig Hollinger, Christina Williams, Doug Williams
3-day tour of Lilloet and Dalgleish Mountains: Tim Webb, Simon Coates, Simon Gabot, Mike Thompson
The route taken each day of this trip were originally pencilled onto the topographic map at the end of each day. The entire topographic map is reproduced here, with the pencilled lines traced over in red to make them clear.
Note: Each GPS track below only shows the approximate outbound trip f
rom our basecamp to each day’s destination, all being converted to digital form based on the Manatee Glacier Map.
Day 1: Saturday 22/04/1989 Helicopter from Hydro “A” frame near Meager Creek – Campsite below Manatee Glacier (1700m)
Max elevation: 1690 m
Total climbing: 3 m
Total descent: 0 m
Average speed: nan km/h
We were able to join this Alpine Club of Canada Manatee Acc Spring ski camp following an introduction by our Canadian friend, Steven Threndyle. The club’s aim for this trip was to investigate the area as a site for a potential future hut.
In attempting to write this very belated trip report, I read a couple of other people’s trip reports. Additionally, as a result of some international cooperation with others on the trip, I have been able to put this report together 31 years after the event! Although most of the other reports were summer climbing trips, they made me very appreciative of the conditions we had for our trip. Some earlier reports described people falling into crevices whilst travelling on glaciers and showed photos of glaciers which had obviously retreated somewhat since 1989.
We spent most of each day glacier skiing, first picking a high point to summit before having lunch, then skiing back down to camp, only infrequently adjusting our course to avoid visible crevice fields. We were blessed with outstanding weather the whole week, and the avalanche danger, as assessed by the experts in our team, was judged to be minimal. It was indeed judged to be safe enough to allow us four Aussies to head off as a group without further supervision.
Black & White Photos – of the entire week
To get started, we had driven about 70km to the north-west of Pemberton along Upper Lillooet River Forest Service Road (which follows Lillooet River) to Hydro “A” frame near Meager Creek. Here we met our chartered helicopter for the 30-minute flight to a ridge top amongst a grove of trees below Manatee Glacier above the headwaters of Manatee Creek. Multiple helicopter flights were required and enabled luxuries like a toilet seat and a kitchen tent to be brought up to camp.
Judging from information in the trip report posted by Will Beattie on 27th August 2014 (Varsity Outdoor Club – University of British Columbia) our helicopter ride shaved a day and a half walk from our trip.
Our week’s adventures were all to occur in the area outside the eastern boundary of Toba Provincial Forest. From the tracks I had drawn on the topographic map we took on this trip that campsite was located at about 50.610215N, 123.6920904W.
Peter, Sue & Steve Campbell at our campsite – Manatee Glacier trip 22/4/1989 (50mm, f2.8, 1/125s)
Each day, our party broke off into smaller groups. Climbers climbed. Alpine skiers went off for their big runs. The Aussie team, on their lighter telemark gear, headed off to a daily mountain destination. Each day, a different mountain was picked, lunch on top with a view was enjoyed, and then we had a long, telemark descent back to camp with the occasional extra run.
One night the two of the climbers failed to return to camp until way after dark, which caused considerable concern for their safety. They had become “stuck” trying to climb an overhang and took a very long time to extricate themselves. The rest of us were very relieved to see them appear out of the darkness into camp.
The only other things I remember are the transceiver practice drills before heading out onto the snow and the snow pit that was used to test snow slip/avalanche risk. Peter 19/3/21
Simon and I drove to Pemberton Helicopters’ base in 2 ¼ hours from Burnaby. The whole group of 14 showed up shortly afterwards. Simon and I flew from Pemberton with all of our gear, and all of the club gear, gas, tents, tarps, etc. The rest of the group arrived in five more flights from the Hydro “A” frame near Meager Creek. Made camp at the proposed cabin site, a great spot. We made a deluxe campsite, plywood tent floor works great. All of the group skied up the ridge immediately behind camp in the afternoon. The snow was crusty on top, but OK lower down. The weather was overcast, but the sun was shining through. Some convective clouds around too. Clear and –5 C at night, camp altitude 1690m (5540’) Mike
Day 2: Sunday 23/04/1989 Campsite near Manatee Glacier – Polychrome Ridge 8221’ (2505m)
Max elevation: 2490 m
Total climbing: 1104 m
Total descent: -298 m
Average speed: nan km/h
Most of the group climbed up Polychrome Ridge on hard snow, very easy touring, crust would not break. Mad Dog and Colin Evans climbed Sirenia by way of the east coulour. Holington climbed Obelia. The ski down from Polychome Ridge was really good. At 1500 hrs., we started down, the sun had totally melted the crust. A truly great run. The weather was very clear with Q forming at around 1030 and building until around 1600. Temp +7C in shade. Some Q forming toward the north, but never came near us. Clear and cold at night –5C again. Mike
Sue skiing – Manatee Glacier trip 23/4/1989
Day 3: Monday 24/04/1989 Campsite near Manatee Glacier – Obelia Peak 8400’ (2560m)
Max elevation: 2722 m
Total climbing: 1409 m
Total descent: -407 m
Average speed: nan km/h
Steve & Sue, Obelia day trip
Day 1 of the Three-day tour of Lilloet and Dalgleish Mountains: Tim Webb, Simon Coates, Simon Gabot, Mike Thompson
Tim, Simon, Simon Gabot and I are leaving camp for the Lillooet and Dalgleish Mountains. We expect to return in three days. Helicopter pickup arranged for 1400 next Saturday. We left camp around 1015, dropping down to the toe of the Remora Glacier. The weather is clear and very hot. We crossed below the toe of the glacier and climbed up easy slopes to the lateral moraine below our summer climbing campsite. Travel to the col on the west side of Obelia was very straightforward. This took around 4 hours. The weather seemed to be coming in with large clouds to the east. We decided to make camp soon, and decided on a spot about 1km from the col. We opted for a half cave, half igloo. This was a real mistake, since over 2 ½ hours were required to complete the structure. After this Simon and I made an igloo, complete, in under 1 hour. During the night the sky was clear and cold. It became very windy during the night. Mike
Day 4: Tuesday 25/04/1989 Campsite near Manatee Glacier – Manatee Glacier 7840’ (2389m)
Max elevation: 2196 m
Total climbing: 729 m
Total descent: -221 m
Average speed: nan km/h
Late afternoon near camp
Day 2 of the Three-day tour of Lilloet and Dalgleish Mountains: Tim Webb, Simon Coates, Simon Gabot, Mike Thompson
Very windy day. We skied to pt 8305 on the ridge leading towards Lillooet Mountain. We stopped short of our destination due to the high winds. This ridge is easy, but requires lots of elevation gain and loss. We returned to our snow camp in the late afternoon. The wind dropped to almost nothing in the early morning. Mike
Day 5: Wednesday 26/04/1989 Campsite near Manatee Glacier – Wahoo Tower 9350’ (2850m)
Max elevation: 2824 m
Total climbing: 1246 m
Total descent: -141 m
Average speed: nan km/h
Practising emergency self-arrest using the ice axe and standing roped up on a controlled slab slide before heading up Wahoo Tower. Peter 19/3/21
Today, Peter and I climbed the absolutely awesome Wahoo Tower. We were literally dragged up, attached as we were by the climbing rope to Rienhart, an older, super-strong German climber.
During our descent, Peter thought it a good idea to try self-arresting, so he threw himself down for a slide, and fortunately confirmed the technique worked.
Downclimbing Wahoo Tower
Day 3 of the Three-day tour of Lilloet and Dalgleish Mountains: Tim Webb, Simon Coates, Simon Gabot, Mike Thompson
Got up late and brewed breakfast and some water. We started to return to camp in the mid-morning. The skies were high overcast and the temperature was very hot. Fairly good skiing brought us back to camp by mid-afternoon. We saw some ski doo tracks near the old summer climbing camp. They had travelled over the Pemberton Icecap from Callaghan Lake in one day. Some clouds forming, hard to tell what the weather is going to do. Mike
Day 6: Thursday 27/04/1989 Campsite near Manatee Glacier – Polychrome Ridge 6050’ (1844m)
Started snowing overnight. About 3” accumulated by 0900. No wind. The weather slowly improved throughout the morning. Rienhart, Colin, Tim, Simon and I decided to ski partway up Polychrome Ridge for a short ski. By the time we had reached the main shoulder, most of the clouds were gone. We had a great ski back to the valley bottom. After getting back to camp, Tim, Rienhart and I skied to the top of the ridge above camp. Had a great ski back down into camp. Mike
Day 7: Friday 28/04/1989 Campsite near Manatee Glacier – Oluk Peak 7900′ (2407m)
Max elevation: 2607 m
Total climbing: 1072 m
Total descent: -195 m
Average speed: nan km/h
Peter, Sue, Steve Campbell & Seve Davies near Wahoo Tower
The snow depth decreasing greatly during our stay, recalling it around the tips of some of the smaller trees when we arrived then about a metre lower when we left.
Stephen Campbell (13/2/21) recalled
The entire group skied to the top of Oluk Peak. Incredible skiing down the glacier below Oluk. Tim, Simon, Simon Gabot and I then skied to the top of the ridge above camp for some more turns. We had a really great day. Mike
Saturday 29/04/1987 Campsite – Helicopter Flight Out
Tim, Simon Gabot and I skied to the top of the Manatee Glacier. About 1 ½ hours from camp. We had a really good ski back to camp. Perfect turns in another perfect day. The flight home was uneventful except that we flew directly to Pemberton over part of the Pemberton ice cap. Mike
Our leather telemark boots were no match for the plastic alpine boots worn by the Canadians.
I may have treated you to the pasta/tinned soup/tuna slop for dinner, but possibly another trip. Peter 19/3/21
Really bad blisters Stephen Campbell (13/2/21) recalled
Rabbit tracks in the snow amongst the trees around camp
Stephen Campbell (13/2/21) recalled
Being very concerned about the presence of wolverine tracks
Stephen Campbell (13/2/21) recalled
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The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)
Landscape Features
This region is typified by steep, irregular mountains and deep valleys, heavily sculpted by glacial activity. Glaciers including the Manatee and several others persist in high cirques, feeding meltwater into valley systems below. Features such as moraines, eskers, kames, and drumlins are present throughout the area, with valley bottoms often mantled by a mix of glacial debris and forested alluvium.
Geology
The area belongs to the Pacific Ranges of the southern Coast Mountains, underlain primarily by volcanic and sedimentary rocks dating from the Jurassic and older. Volcanic rocks here are the result of both accreted ancient volcanic islands and more recent subduction-driven volcanism associated with the Garibaldi Volcanic Belt. The region includes major granitic intrusions (“Coast Intrusions”), created as magma cooled beneath the crust, later exposed through uplift and erosion. Pleistocene glaciation has been the dominant force in shaping topography, stripping layers and rounding the tops of ridges such as Polychrome Ridge, where diverse mineral content yields vibrant rock colouration.
Scenic Highlights
The landscape is marked by dramatic contrasts: jagged peaks and ridges rise above broad, glaciated valleys. The scenic highlights include the stark, multicoloured slopes of Polychrome Ridge, formed from volcanic and sedimentary materials, as well as the extensive ice fields of Manatee Glacier. Alpine meadows, old-growth forests, and clear glacial-fed streams add further scenic diversity, with broad vistas from summits such as Wahoo Tower and Obelia.
Local Flora
Alpine and subalpine zones support communities dominated by heathers (Ericaceae), sedges, and grasses, punctuated by patches of wildflowers during the brief summer. Below the treeline, forests largely comprise old-growth stands of mountain hemlock, western hemlock, yellow cedar, amabilis fir, Douglas fir, western red cedar, and a mix of deciduous species. Riparian and wetland habitats host cottonwood, willow, and thimbleberry, with some rare plant species such as smooth willowherb found locally.
Local Fauna
The alpine and subalpine realms support mountain goats, marmots, pikas, and ground squirrels, while avifauna such as the white-tailed ptarmigan nest in high meadows. Lower elevations are home to larger mammals including grizzly bears, black bears, moose, wolves, black-tailed deer, and wolverines. Bird diversity increases in the forested valleys and wetland margins.
Indigenous History
This region lies within the traditional lands of the Líl̓wat Nation (Interior Salish people), whose territory encompasses the river valleys and high country of the area. The Líl̓wat have maintained a strong connection to these mountains for thousands of years, relying on fishing, hunting, and foraging, and developing wood carving, weaving, and other cultural practices. This Indigenous country reflects millennia of traditional ecological knowledge, adaptation, and spiritual significance tied closely to the landscape. The area is sometimes referred to as Líl̓wat7ul.
White History
Non-Indigenous exploration began in the late nineteenth century, with the first recorded survey in 1893 as part of a search for missing surveyors. The region remained remote and little developed until the twentieth century, when logging roads and recreation routes reached the fringes. Protected as Upper Lillooet Provincial Park in 1997, the area is valued for its old-growth forest and wilderness character. Historical remnants, such as stone huts and abandoned horse trails, can be found, but the area is otherwise largely unmodified by white settlement. The park’s primary significance remains in its conservation status and difficulty of access, offering wilderness experiences for only the most experienced adventurers.
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Hey Stephen,
Was reading the post you dropped on telemarks Australia. I thought – I bet Simon was on that mission. I struggling to remember his last name after some 35 years.
Simon Coates – did he used to manage. Paddy pallin in Katoomba.
Anyway – I’ll finish reading your article.
Rohan syer – telemark skier.
Hi Rohan, as far as I know the Simon Coates who was on that trip was Canadian. I haven’t been in contact with him since that 1989 trip and have no idea if he ever came to Australia, Sorry I couldn’t be more useful.