Australian Alps Walking Track (SOBO – South Bound)

Section 10  (3 days):   Days 51 – 53 to Food Drop 10

22/5/2025 – 24/05/2025  Jamieson-Licola Road – Fiddlers Green 

Distance: 27.9km   Total Ascent: 1,473m   Total Descent: 1,817m  

Time: 12 hours   Moving Time: 7 hours 

Participants: Damien Aggio (Report), Stephen Davies (Report, Photos)

Day 51: Thursday 22/05/2025   Jamieson-Licola Road – AAWT – Jamieson-Licola Road – Skene Lookout – Jamieson-Licola Road – River Logging Road (intersection) – N25 Track – AAWT – Mt Shillinglaw 1305m – Black River – Champion Spur No. 1 Track – Black River Camp

                                                          State Forest, VICTORIA

                                                          Gunai/Kurnai Country

Download file: 20250522.gpx                         Track Info

 

Our next target was barely an option as it was the next location with water, Black River. 

We didn’t manage to escape “the comforts of home” until 10:30am. The day started easily enough with a couple of kilometres of walking along Jamieson-Licola Road. Then we had the choice of continuing along the road or hiking a section of the AAWT trail that runs roughly parallel to the road. Here we opted for the AAWT.

The first part of this section of the AAWT passed along an old road track. Somehow, we became so engrossed in what we were doing that we didn’t even notice Skene Lookout as we walked past it. About half an hour along the track, we encountered a kilometre or more section that had many fallen trees. At this point, we thought that if we had the choice again with what we now knew, we would take the road. Again, a terrible section and very slow. This became very tedious as we were repeatedly forced to climb over, walk around or crawl under wooden obstacles of all shapes and sizes.

As we approached the road again, the scenery changed dramatically. We were now walking through a beautiful, lush, ferny understorey of forest which sat under a canopy of tall, straight and narrow trees. There were three or four species of fern and a large variety of fungi. This was such a beautiful section of forest; it changed my mind. I decided it had been worth all that earlier tree-wrestling it took to get here after all.

From here, we rejoined the road for a few more kilometres and were able to make quick progress until the next turnoff.

Leaving the road again, we were back onto single-track walking. Initially, it appeared to have been well cleared, was a couple of metres wide and even looked like some mulching had been done. However, it wasn’t long before it reverted to a normal, narrow single track, again with an occasional fallen tree to negotiate and close encounters with regrowth. 

The track down the final descent to Black River was better than anticipated, as it had been described as being overgrown in Chapman’s guidebook, so some work had likely been done on that section since the 2022 edition.

Along the Black River, it was entirely different; here, the track became hard to follow but only for a short stretch. Before long, we sighted the wooden bridge across Black River. This is a large fallen tree, with access staircases cut into it on both sides of the river. Its surface is also cut as a series of flat steps and has a wire mesh covering to ensure secure traction when wet.

Once across the log bridge, we started the steep climb up the track towards the campsite. Very soon, we were confronted with several very large, recently fallen trees across the top of the track. I feared they might be over the campsite. 

After finding our way through that mess, we found we were now on the next 4WD track, called Spur Link Track, with the small campsite we were seeking squeezed between the track and those fallen trees.

We were again puzzled as to why the fireplace was positioned on the flattest area in the campsite! Now approaching darkness, it had us quickly get the tents up and head inside.

Around 8:00pm, something that sounded like material being ripped was heard. At the same time, I noticed my tent flapping about as if a breeze had briefly appeared. Damien surmised it was a possum who had come in close for an explore before quickly leaving. The next morning, I was unable to find any of my packed breakfast muesli; had it been stolen by a thief in the night? (I cannot imagine how, as everything was inside my sealed-up tent). The mystery remains unsolved.

Although there was relatively little climbing today, we did have 1,300m of descent. We saw no one along the track today.

 

Damien

A mild and dry night was had, and I managed to totally dry out the sleeping bag by hanging it up in a tree for the first hour of sunlight after dawn. But it didn’t last, and up here at 1,500m elevation, a misty cloud/fog rolled in and enveloped us. The temperature dropped markedly, and the wind picked up. It was uncomfortable outside.

We sorted all our items from the food drop and walked off at 10:30am. The first hour was fast along the road until we turned left onto the walking trail. What a mistake. The next hour was spent clambering over dozens of fallen trees. We should have stayed on the road. They both lead to the same spot anyway.

We had lunch on the side of the road before Mount Shillinglaw, where the trail was cleared and quite fast. We walked on down to the Black River and had the novelty of walking along a fallen log to get across the river. The log was well sculpted by a skilled person with steps on either side and chicken wire for increased traction on top.

In contrast, the campsite a couple of hundred metres further on was tiny and sloping. The premium section of ground for a tent space always seems to have the campfire located on it.

Water was only a hundred metres away, and after dinner we settled into bed and found the temperature quite mild at the low elevation of 600m.

Day 51 Photos

 

Day 52: Friday 23/05/2025   Black River – Black River Campsite – AAWT – Champion Spur No. 1 Track – Champion Spur – Champion Spur No. 3 Track (intersection) –  Champion Spur Track – Mt Singleton 1343m – Royal Standard Spur Track (intersection) – Mount Selma Road – AAWT – Sunflower Hill 1260m – Sambar Spur Track (intersection) – Fiddlers Green Road (intersection) – Fiddlers Green Campsite

                                                    State Forest, VICTORIA

                                                    Gunai/Kurnai Country

Download file: 20250523.gpx                         Track Info

 

The sound of rain on my tent woke me around 4:00am. It remained solid and steady for the next 4 hours. We were in no great hurry to get out of bed this morning!  

As it eased off after 9:00am, we decided we should try to get moving, and at 10:40am we were leaving camp, during a break in the rain. Earlier, we were really pleased with the day’s planned route when we noticed it was all road-based. That meant, hopefully, a few bits of wet vegetation to walk through. 

The first part of today’s walk involved a steep 600m climb up along the Champion Spur Link Track, a rough 4WD track. About halfway up, it started to rain again, and as there was no wind, I got my umbrella out. This worked extremely well, although it was just a little awkward to manage handheld as I hadn’t repaired my shoulder strap mounting system.

The main obstacles today were the numerous puddles of muddy water in the wheel ruts, sometimes fully across the road. One particularly long and deep one was almost fully enclosed on each side by thick shrubs, forcing an awkward sidestep along the sloping, muddy edge whilst pushing back against the shrubs with the backpack, whilst simultaneously using both trekking poles in the mud to oppose the pushback of the now compressed shrubs.

A couple more rain showers during the afternoon kept me moving, having left Damien behind earlier. At each turn, I indicated which way I had gone by scratching multiple arrows into the road surface, which acted as a prompt and backup for his navigation tools.

Nearing our destination, with the ground covered in puddles, I began checking out possible campsites but settled on our planned stop at Fiddlers Green. Here, despite all the rain were two campsites far better than many we had recently used. Two almost flat, grassy sites with no water pooling. As a big bonus, I was lucky enough to get fully set up between showers.

Damien rolled in about 90 minutes later. We were both pleased to retreat to the drier environment inside our tents. 

Of concern to both of us today was our communication, which led to confusion for both of us. Despite numerous text messages between us, the fact that our phones showed what time each message was received (and not when it was sent), together with poor reception, led to our messages being received in a different order than when they were sent. Far from ideal and very confusing.

 

Damien

During the night, a possum raided Stephen’s tent and stole his breakfast. It rained the whole night, and everywhere was wet and muddy.

We broke camp at 10:00am and started to warm up on an immediate 600m vertical ascent up Champion Spur Trail. Straight away, we ruled out walking upstream instead of along the walking trail, as we have previously found that when the bushes are wet and you brush alongside them, you instantly get soaked.

As the day progressed, the rain showers became more frequent, and by the time I reached Fiddlers Green, I was wet all through. However, 500m before Fiddlers Green, I turned left down a Four Wheel Drive track and found a tiny trickle of a stream to obtain my water for the evening. It was covered in Blackberry bushes and leeches. I would have expected a larger stream for all the rain we had today.

Day 52 Photos

 

Day 53: Saturday 24/05/2025   Mt Selma Road – Fiddlers Green

                                                         State Forest, VICTORIA

                                                         Gunai/Kurnai Country

A rude awakening. At 12:07am, we were both awoken by a 4WD. It had turned off Mt Selma Road, driven up close to our tents and stopped with its headlights aimed directly at us before we heard someone yelling aggressively out of an open window, “Why are you there?” amongst other things.  Another one of the joys of 4WD’s having access to so much of the AAWT route.

As daylight broke, the weather was still miserable. There had been plenty of overnight rain, and it was cold. A lot of gear was getting pretty wet or damp. As we still had 5km to go to our designated food drop meeting with my wife and friends, I reconsidered our options. Instead of us moving to a new site that we knew nothing about, we could stay put in this relatively sheltered site, on ground that was much less wet than it had any right to be.

After communicating our position to our support team, all we needed to do was wait for them to drive in from Eildon, where they had spent the night.

As there was plenty of very wet, windy gravel road for them to negotiate, we expected it could take a while. It sure did. Sue didn’t arrive with our campervan until mid-afternoon. Our two friends, supporting her, were nowhere to be seen and failed to arrive at all. They had fallen behind Sue, were not sure where they were going and turned around 1km short of our campsite in order to be able to drive back out before it got dark!

Sue had a terrible drive, experiencing very slow and very slippery road conditions. She had found John and Ian to be even slower, and upon not noticing them behind her at one point, pulled over and waited half an hour before deciding to continue alone.

I have never seen our van covered with so much mud. Anyway, the three of us had a repeat of the delicious chilli bean meal together, wondering what had happened to the others.

 

Damien

Due to it being a good campsite, we had a change of plans and made contact with our support vehicle to come here for the night to drop off our supplies.

It means that we have an extra 5km walk tomorrow, but that is okay.

There was a slight improvement in the weather, and we managed to dry out our gear before the next forecast onslaught of snow and bad weather in two days.

Day 53 Photos

Amongst other photographically recorded observations during this walk, we were able to confirm sightings of each of the following species: Eastern Grey Kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), Brumbies (feral horses), Possum (Pseudocheirus peregrinus)

Food Drop 10                 Expedition Log                      Equipment List

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Information on Parks signage along the way

A High Cost for a  Machinery Belt – Fiddlers Green 1865-1866

This is the site of the Fiddlers Green Restaurant which was assumed to have run from 1865. According to an A.B Ainsworth’s Map of the mining district it was abandoned by 1866.

Situated near the township of Fiddlers Green is the Maid of the Mountains Mine. The mine was named after a famous musical and was not overly rich in gold. It was owned by Alex Svenson and closed after his death in 1942.

On a beautiful winter’s day in 1953, Carl Lewis (local resident and Alex Sverson’s nephew) rode out alone to retrieve one of his uncle’s leather belts. The two had been close and the story goes Carl had wanted to use the belt on his circular saw bench. Unfortunately, the weather turned bad in the afternoon with torrential/rain and snow.

Lewis body was found by a friend, Alan Creighton, after a two-day search. The search was led by ploice contables Ron Kirk, Nevile Weston and expert bushman Les Lawson. Lewis had died just five kilometres from his home.

He was wearing only light clothes, ill-suited to protect him from the unpredictable weather conditions of the region. It appeared that, in his haste to return home, he had been thrown from his horse and dragged some distance. The leather belt he had set out to collect had remained wrapped around his body, despite his ordeal.

 

The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)

Landscape Features

The AAWT between Jamieson–Licola Road and Fiddlers Green traverses a remote and rugged portion of the Victorian Alps, primarily within State Forest and the Alpine National Park boundary zone. The terrain is characterised by steep, forested ridges, deep river valleys, and open grassy flats. Elevations typically range from approximately 800 m to over 1,400 m above sea level, with the track ascending and descending through a series of ridges and valleys.

The landscape is shaped by fluvial erosion, resulting in narrow gorges, broad alluvial terraces, and occasional granite outcrops. The route crosses several major watercourses, including the Barkly River and its tributaries, and passes through areas of dense eucalypt forest and open woodland. The region is sparsely populated, with limited access and a strong sense of wilderness.

Geology

The geology of this region is dominated by Palaeozoic granitic rocks of the Lachlan Fold Belt, with some areas featuring metasedimentary sequences. These rocks have been deeply weathered and eroded, creating a landscape of rounded hills, rocky ridges, and fertile river valleys. Alluvial deposits along the river valleys support rich soils and diverse vegetation. The presence of granite outcrops and boulder fields is a distinctive feature of the higher elevations.

Scenic Highlights

Scenic highlights along this section of the AAWT include:

• Forested Ridges and Valleys: Dense stands of tall eucalypts and mixed forests, providing habitat for a range of wildlife.

• Open Grassy Flats: Expansive meadows along the river valleys, offering panoramic views of the surrounding hills.

• River Crossings: Multiple crossings of clear, fast-flowing streams, including the Barkly River and its tributaries.

• Remote Wilderness: The sense of isolation and natural beauty is a defining feature of this section, with few signs of human activity.

• Fiddlers Green: A historic site and popular rest stop for walkers, located in a sheltered valley.

Local Flora

The vegetation is highly varied, reflecting changes in altitude and aspect:

• Tall Eucalypt Forests: Mountain ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) and alpine ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) dominate the higher slopes and sheltered valleys.

• Open Woodlands: Yellow box (Eucalyptus melliodora) and white box (Eucalyptus albens) woodlands are found on the lower slopes and river flats.

• Snow Gum Woodlands: Eucalyptus pauciflora is common on exposed ridges and higher elevations.

• Understorey and Groundcover: The understorey is rich in shrubs such as silver wattle (Acacia dealbata), and a variety of grasses and wildflowers. In sheltered gullies, montane rainforest remnants with myrtle beech (Nothofagus cunninghamii) and tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica) can be found.

Local Fauna

The region supports a rich and diverse fauna, adapted to both forested and open environments:

• Mammals: Eastern grey kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), swamp wallaby (Wallabia bicolor), wombat (Vombatus ursinus), and platypus (Ornithorhynchus anatinus) in the rivers and streams.

• Birds: Superb lyrebird (Menura novaehollandiae), gang-gang cockatoo (Callocephalon fimbriatum), wedge-tailed eagle (Aquila audax), and a variety of parrots and honeyeaters.

• Reptiles and Amphibians: Common skinks (Egernia spp.) and frogs such as the southern brown tree frog (Litoria ewingii) in wetlands and streams.

• Invertebrates: Diverse forest and grassland invertebrates, including endemic species adapted to cool, moist conditions.

Indigenous History

The traditional custodians of the land through which the AAWT passes in this region are the Gunai/Kurnai people. Gunai/Kurnai country encompasses much of the eastern Victorian Alps and the surrounding river valleys. The high country and river valleys were important seasonal gathering places for Indigenous peoples, who travelled to the area in summer to feast on Bogong moths (Agrotis infusa), a rich source of protein. The landscape holds deep spiritual and cultural significance, with evidence of occupation including artefact scatters, stone tools, and ceremonial sites. The Gunai/Kurnai people continue to maintain their cultural heritage and connection to country.

White History

European exploration and settlement of the area began in the mid-19th century, with pastoralists and graziers moving into the high country in search of summer grazing for cattle and sheep. The construction of huts and tracks reflects the pastoral heritage of the region. Fiddlers Green was historically used as a rest stop and gathering place for stockmen and travellers. The remoteness of the area limited large-scale settlement, and the landscape remains largely undisturbed. In the 20th century, the establishment of the Alpine National Park and the development of recreational infrastructure transformed the region into a major destination for bushwalking, fishing, and nature-based tourism.

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Contents

A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries and other content