Australian Alps Walking Track (SOBO – South Bound)
Section 9 (9 days): Days 42 – 50 to Food Drop 9
13/5/2025 – 21/05/2025 Selwyn Creek Road – Rumpff Saddle
Distance: 114.2km Total Ascent: 7,981m Total Descent: 7,623m
Time: 63 hours Moving Time: 32 hours
Participants: Damien Aggio (Report), Stephen Davies (Report, Photos)
Day 42: Tuesday 13/05/2025 Selwyn Creek Road “Campsite” – AAWT – Montana Track – Great Dividing Range Track – Montana Track (intersection) – Selwyn Creek Road (intersection) – Dingo Creek Track (intersection) – Mount Selwyn 1424m – Mount Selwyn Road (intersection) – South Selwyn 1398m – South Selwyn Campsite – South Selwyn Water tank – Selwyn Track – Canyon Road (intersection) – Selwyn Track – Whites Track (intersection) – W Humffray Road (intersection) – Whites Spur Track – East Buffalo Road (intersection) – East Riley Road (intersection) – East Riley Road Water Tank – East Buffalo Road Camp
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1429 m
Total climbing: 966 m
Total descent: -921 m
Average speed: 2.99 km/h
Total time: 06:54:30
Our morning preps were briefly interrupted by a 4WD descending towards our camp via the track we had walked yesterday. It was a National Parks Ranger on his way to a meeting, so our conversation was brief. He was a little puzzled as to why we would camp on a road junction, but understood once he knew we were at a food drop.
Overnight, we had both copped the most condensation of the trip on our now very wet tents. However, with inside-outside microfibre cloth wipe downs and a little sun, mine was dry by our 10:00am departure.
Straight out of camp, we had a steep climb of 200m to warm us up. The day itself involved a roller coaster style of ridge walking, a seemingly never-ending series of rolling high points. The surface varied repeatedly, but more often than not, it was rough and uneven underfoot. Steep sections of 4WD track with lots of rocks and stones, bush track with massive amounts of leaf litter and sticks. Multiple sections were overgrown, and many thorny tentacles of blackberry bushes had to be negotiated. The scenery was again one of forest-covered hillsides with deep river valleys far below.
Views from Mount Selwyn
Today, the sections of the AAWT track provided the best walking and wilderness experience. As we found later, the 4WD tracks are used, with two vehicles in convoy passing by twice and stopping for a short chat. They pointed out all the blackberry bush scratches along the side of their car, as well as checking if we needed a water top-up.
The day dragged on longer than our references had led us to believe, and the 14km we logged as 17km. Due to constant steep rocky climbs and descents and numerous other impediments, we took a couple of hours longer than expected to complete our day, putting up our tents at sunset. We walked past our first choice campsite on East Riley Road as it was literally on the verge of the road, and uncomfortably uneven to boot. We walked up past East Riley Road Water Tank to the top of the hill and camped on a couple of small “camp sites”. Before becoming too settled, we needed to remove some rocks and sticks from beneath our tent footprints.
We were surprised at the very mild temperature after dark and the stillness of the starry evening after watching the full moon rise above a distant ridge through the trees.
Forest along Selwyn Track
Damien
It was a very damp night inside the tents, and although we tried until 10:00am we still couldn’t fully dry the tents and sleeping bags. There was a small pool of water in my tent on the floor in the lowest section. Not sure why, as there was no rain and the clouds didn’t seem to be too intense. At this campsite, there was phone reception on Optus and Telstra networks, so we made calls home.
On the trail, the going was a little bit tougher than the map indicated. It was a consistent steep uphill followed by a steep downhill. Also, the surface of the fire trail was loose rubble that made for quite an insecure footing, and a generated a couple of slips.
By the time we reached the water tank, we had had enough. But the campsite near the tank was substandard, literally just on the side of the road. So we decided, even though it was almost dark, to continue upwards 500m (110m vertically) to the top of the hill where the next campground was shown. It was pretty squishy, but we managed to get both tents down, albeit across the middle of the foot track.
Day 43: Wednesday 14/05/2025 East Buffalo Road Hilltop Camp – Selwyn Track – Van Damme’s Track (intersection) – Harry Shepherds Track (intersection) – Selwyn Track – West Buffalo Track – Barry Saddle – Barry Saddle Water Tank – Barry Saddle Campsite
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1180 m
Total climbing: 516 m
Total descent: -701 m
Average speed: 2.80 km/h
Total time: 05:11:52
It turned out to be a very pleasant, mild and calm night out under the trees and stars on the top of the hill above the water tank. Although we had a short 10km day to Barry Saddle planned, we got away by 9:15am, just in case we decided to go further.
The walking environment today was way better than yesterday. We were walking through a beautiful forest along easy-to-follow tracks. Underneath our feet was often grass with fewer sticks and virtually no rocks, very unlike yesterday.
After intersecting with and following a very short section of road, we were off again onto foot-track, still through wonderful forest, but for periods now along tracks following an old, overgrown logging road.
As we paused on a grassy patch for an early lunch, two male hikers approached from the south. They were out for a few days and kindly filled us in on the location of all the water sources they had used and of the ones that were dry. They also informed us of their slow, 1km/h progress on some sections between The Viking and Mount Speculation, more invaluable information for planning.
After lunch, we continued to Barry Saddle with its spacious, grassy campsite and decided to stay, with an early 2:30pm finish. There was still plenty to do, including filtering enough water for our 5L each water carry to cover us for the next 24 hours or more. Our first fire for weeks was a pleasure, but the large bull ants were not; they got me twice, once on a finger and then on the ankle through two pairs of socks!
Barry Saddle Watertank
The Barry Saddle Water Tank is just south of the grassy campsite, and near it is a logbook box. There were actually two logbooks inside, the first with entries dating back to 1997! By far the most comprehensive record of people who have walked through here on the AAWT that we have seen to date.
Damien
Water tanks have recently dominated our choices for campsites. Keeping rucksack weight down is paramount, so we avoid carrying serious amounts of water.
The night was nearly perfectly dry regarding condensation, so this sped up our packing chores, and we left camp at 9:00am.
It was an easier day than yesterday, both in distance (10km) and surface, which was quite good. A very pleasant walk was had in perfect weather and temperatures.
At lunch, we were met by two northbound hikers. They gave us good information on our upcoming route and showed us where we would next come across water. Things were going to get hard.
We arrived at Barry Saddle at 2:30pm and decided to set up camp. We filtered water all evening, preparing for the next day and a half without water. We treated 12L for the next day and night. Mount Speculation would be our next water point.
We had a campfire that night in perfect conditions.
Barry Saddle Logbook 17/3/1997 – 14/5/2025
Day 44: Thursday 15/05/2025 Barry Saddle Campsite – Barry Saddle Water Tank – West Buffalo Track – AAWT – The Viking 1508m – Viking Saddle – Viking Saddle Campsite
Alpine National Park (Razor–Viking Wilderness Zone), VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1526 m
Total climbing: 816 m
Total descent: -627 m
Average speed: 2.00 km/h
Total time: 06:38:46
We had great expectations today, hoping to get to Mount Despair, instead the despair would be ours alone.
Water is known to be a real issue for most of the next week. Its availability is limited, so you need to carry plenty or camp at a reliable water source. Today we knew we would not reach the next water supply, so we each carried 5-6L to cover one night and two days. This much added weight is not really what you want for such a tough section of the hike.
We departed camp at 9:00am. The first couple of kilometres were done at a reasonable pace. We then started the 600m climb of The Viking. It is steep and slow, with lots of things to slow you down, and at times it is very difficult to follow the mostly unmarked track. We ended up off track for short stretches a couple of times, further slowing our progress. There are two very steep pitches, each of about 50m, through rocky sections. Above the second one, the walking becomes easier and begins to reveal the views.
As we reached the summit area, we were treated to those fantastic views, both of The Viking itself and views all around. We briefly walked out onto some of the cliff edges from where the best views of The Viking cliff-line could be seen.
View from The Viking
After a brief stop on the summit, our descent began. After only a couple of hundred metres, the main track heads off towards “The Chimney”. As Damien had no desire to tackle this, we headed off down the supposedly much easier alternative gully route. Initially, there was a faint track and a couple of yellow markers to follow, but these soon disappeared as we got further down into the gully. Soon, we found ourselves making our own path. It was already slow going, but now it became much slower as we tried to get back on the track, calculated to be a couple of hundred metres across the steep, untracked, scree slope covered in thick vegetation. My watch reported a 64-minute kilometre through here.
Once back on track, it became increasingly easier walking, bar the need to go slowly as the track was lined with a slippery layer of leaves and coarse sand-sized rocks, so gaining a trusted footing was near impossible for a while. We rolled into The Viking Saddle Campsite after 3:00pm, with progress in this area so slow, we decided to stop for the night.
Another clear, calm, starry night amongst the trees on a grassy campsite. Although no water is often found nearby, it is a very good campsite. Tonight we were fortunate enough to have a visitor, a rather large possum who didn’t seem to mind us getting close to get a good look, and a photo. Wildlife viewing, apart from birds, has been incredibly sparse for weeks, so we enjoyed the encounter.
We also enjoyed the warmth of our second outside campfire in Victoria, but unfortunately, under the calm conditions, we were often haunted by smoke.
We saw no one else today.
Viking Saddle Campsite
Damien
This has been the hardest day of the whole trip.
We left camp at 9:00am with an extra 6kg of water in our packs for the dry camp tonight. The first hour went well enough. However, thereafter, the incline got very steep and loose. I got quite fatigued and found the going very slow. The views near the top were spectacular, and we took plenty of photos.
We avoided the chimney on the descent down the western cliffs by walking further south and descending the next gully. It was an easy descent, but then the track petered out, and we had to bush bash to get back onto the main track.
Viking Saddle is a beautiful open site with plenty of room. It took us 6.5 hours to complete today’s route.
Day 45: Friday 16/05/2025 Viking Saddle – Viking Saddle Campsite – AAWT – The Razor 1404m – Mount Despair Campsite – Mount Despair 1464m – Catherine Saddle – Catherine Saddle Campsite – Speculation Road – AAWT (intersection) – Camp Creek Campsite – Camp Creek
Alpine National Park (Razor–Viking Wilderness Zone), VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1501 m
Total climbing: 872 m
Total descent: -502 m
Average speed: 2.60 km/h
Total time: 07:24:08
Our packs were noticeably lighter this morning, down by 3kg in water alone, although we both still have 2L to get us through today. Predawn, I caught the sound of a kookaburra beginning its wake-up call; however, it was perhaps more likely a lyrebird as the song did not progress.
Our morning started with a hillclimb out of Viking Saddle, through forest which appeared to have been hit by an extremely fierce, local windstorm, as there were many, many trees down. This made the walking very difficult and very slow with constant detours, climbing, crawling, log walking and some weird stretching manoeuvres required to proceed. This also often entailed searching for the track again beyond the fallen debris field. As we neared the top of the hill, there were far fewer obstacles.
Fallen trees past Viking Saddle Campsite
Once at the saddle leading to The Razor ridge, the views were magnificent and only got better as we climbed onto the first knoll of the ridge. Here, the views were amongst the best of the whole trip, and although we were extremely tempted to walk out to The Razor itself, we declined, believing it would leave us too short of time to reach Camp Creek before nightfall.
With this decision made, we were off on another challenging section, known for its large rock slabs, gullies and heavy vegetation challenges as well as navigation intricacies. We took our time and constantly checked our position, only getting off track a couple of times and only by a short distance. We did note more new-looking, yellow track markers than expected and suspect they are new additions, making it easier to negotiate this labyrinth.
Once onto Mount Despair, the walking became easier, and we made faster progress. Near the top, we met and chatted with a party of three out for four days before continuing on our way.
Past the campsite at Catherine Saddle, we climbed up about 50m to get onto the old, very overgrown and in parts badly eroded Speculation Road, an old logging road, I suspect. This was now followed all the way round to Camp Creek. The first thing we saw past a locked gate was a 4WD vehicle and a bunch of water containers. Part of a school hiking group, our friends from earlier in the day had informed us about what we suspected.
The campsite sits about 50m away from the road and has two excavated, flat tent sites, which we took advantage of. There is also a fire pit with some ironwork for supporting billies. The water is found in Camp Creek by following some reflective markers straight down from the campsite. During our visit, Camp Creek was flowing at less than 1L/min, but there were plenty of pools of water along the creek-bed.
At dusk, a large possum took plenty of interest in us, first eyeing us off from a nearby tree and later sitting on the grass within 10m of my tent.
Camp Creek Campsite
Damien
Straight away, the trail was blocked by formidable obstacles. The first kilometre was littered with massive logs criss-crossing the track. It really slowed our pace as we clambered and climbed over towers of logs.
Further along, the trail became tedious as it went up and around rock outcrops.
There were fantastic views every half hour along this section. Also, plenty of places with good phone reception on all networks.
We got to our campsite a half hour before sunset. There was water only 300m away (a small trickle)
Day 46: Saturday 17/05/2025 Camp Creek Campsite – AAWT – Mount Speculation Campsite – Speculation Track (intersection) – Mount Speculation 1666m – Horrible Gap – Mount Buggery 1608m – The Terrible Hollow – Horrible Gap – Crosscut Saw 1708m – Stanleys Name Spur Walking Track (intersection) – Mount Howitt Walking Track – Macalister River – Vallejo Gantner Hut – Macalister Springs
Alpine National Park (Razor–Viking Wilderness Zone), VICTORIA
Waywurru and Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1696 m
Total climbing: 920 m
Total descent: -800 m
Average speed: 3.52 km/h
Total time: 07:32:10
There were three people in the carpark just above our campsite as we walked through this morning. One had spent the night on Mount Speculation and was keen on some info about the AAWT, as he has plans to start it in October, before he turns 50. The other two were planning to do a circuit incorporating The Viking.
The walk up Mount Speculation was much easier than the last couple of days, with an obvious track across fairly open terrain. The views from the top are awesome in all directions and had extra special appeal to us looking back towards The Viking, Viking Saddle and The Razors from where we had come. The track down the other side was much steeper than our ascent and involved a little clambering over rocky outcrops.
AAWT from past Mount Speculation
Not too much later, we were on the Crosscut Saw, watching the weather start to come in with a few distant showers heading our way. Traversing the ridge-line of the Crosscut Saw involves being close to a few steep drop-offs, regular, repeated ups and downs and many awesome views off into the distance.
With conflicting information about the water supply at Vallejo Gantner Hut (from hikers along the track), we were in two minds as to whether to collect water from the Mount Howitt source first. Fortunately, Damien’s instinct was right, and there was a very small trickle near the hut.
In the final hour to the hut, it had turned very cold, there was light rain, and the clouds had closed in and enveloped us. We were very pleased to arrive at the hut.
There were already about eleven people in several groups there, all keeping warm by the fireplace. I think a couple of people sympathised with our long journey and ended up moving out of the hut and setting up tents nearby, or could it have been something to do with us looking so unkept and, dare I say, smelly, after all, it has been a while since the last shower!
Vallejo Ganther Hut
Damien
A frosty morning, but good weather and sun allowed me to fully dry out my sleeping bag on a tree.
The trail condition was good and clear, with many rocky outcrops to clamber over. This is probably one of the most spectacular spots on the AAWT.
Plenty of photo opportunities were taken before arriving at the architecturally designed Vallejo Gantner Hut. Perhaps the most impressive hut inside and out. Even the toilet block 100m away is cavernous with a flair for design.
Water is reliably available only 150m before arriving at the hut on the side of the track. It is Macalister Springs, the start of the Macalister River. It’s just a tiny trickle that takes 5 minutes to get just 1L, but it’s the only water for miles.
This evening, it started snowing and didn’t stop. It made for great morning photos as the four separate parties of walkers departed the hut.
Vallejo Gantner Hut 20/11/2024 – 18/5/2025
Day 47: Sunday 18/05/2025 Vallejo Gantner Hut – Macalister Springs – Mount Howitt Walking Track – AAWT – Mount Howitt 1742 m – Big Hill Creek Creek – Hellfire Creek Campsite Creek – Mount Howitt Campsite Creek – Howitt Spur – Howqua Feeder Track (intersection) – Mt Magdala Campsite/Hellfire Creek Campsite – AAWT – Bluff Track – Mount Magdala – Bluff Track – Brocks Road (intersection) – King Billy Track (intersection) – Mt Clear track – Brocks Road Campsite – Chesters Yard
Alpine National Park (Wonnangatta–Moroka Unit), VICTORIA
Gunai/Kurnai Country
Max elevation: 1761 m
Total climbing: 663 m
Total descent: -790 m
Average speed: 3.26 km/h
Total time: 07:22:15
Eleven people slept in or in tents around the hut last night; these were mostly people out for the weekend. Damien and I were kept busy all night as everyone wanted to know about our trip, especially Catherine, who was planning to do it in October. It was also very nice to have someone light the fire for the morning, as it had snowed overnight and there were still snow flurries about.
We were last to leave before heading off through winter’s first snowy wonderland. This morning, there were plenty of low clouds around, as there were late yesterday, still hiding all distant views but enhancing the wonderland effect.
Damien on Mount Howitt walking track near Vallejo Ganther Hut
As the day progressed, it failed to get any warmer, with a reported 0°C maximum for the day. Between variable cloud cover, the occasional stiff breeze on exposed sections, snow showers, ascents and sheltered forest areas, it was hard to get the body temperature regulation right. Unusually, I spent all day in my Goretex jacket and most of the day in Goretex overpants just to keep warm. My strategy to avoid overheating was to climb the hills really slowly, whilst opening the vents on the jacket as much as possible.
As we walked through sections of overgrown tracks, our boots and overpants became covered in a slurry of melting snow. With non-waterproof boots, I was now relying on my waterproof socks to stay dry. Come lunchtime, we found a sheltered spot on the slopes of Mount Magdala where we both had our boots and socks off. We also wrung water out of and warmed our bare feet in the little sunlight warmth there was at the 0°C air temperature.
We had been recommended the track around the side of Mount Magdala by two local hunters who had camped nearby. It was a spectacular 1km stretch across its very steep slope of multiple tilted rock outcrops. Brilliant views and with clouds covering the higher slopes, it was an inspired choice for the day.
Views from near Hells Window
After lunch, we walked an hour or so with much drier and warmer feet, but subsequently re-entered the track overgrown with snow-covered undergrowth and got thoroughly wet and cold feet again. This was how we arrived at Chester’s Yard Camp shortly before dark and with it snowing again.
With the forecast of a -6°C overnight minimum, it looks like frozen boots to put on again in the morning. Needless to say, we both got our tents set up quickly before retreating for the night.
Damien
It snowed on and off the whole day.
The camera had plenty of use all day long.
Phone reception was good along the way, so we informed family back home of the snowy weather and the maximum temperature of zero degrees for the day, and a low of -6°C.
As the day progressed, the walking got easier, along roads with little incline.
Chesters Yard is not a particularly good campsite, and the water course 20m away is just a trickle (2L per minute), but our feet were soaking wet and frozen. So with only 15 minutes till sunset, we quickly cleared away a square of snow and put up tents as more snow was coming down on us.
Promptly installed inside, the first chore was to get out of our wet socks and shoes and into the sleeping bags to warm up. Only after all that did we cook dinner and go to bed.
As it was going to be well below freezing overnight, I had to take the water filter to bed (freezing a wet filter membrane destroys it) and ensure that all filled water bottles had ample spare space inside to allow for the expansion of water to ice without destroying the container.
Day 48: Monday 19/05/2025 Chesters Yard – Mount Clear Track – AAWT – Mount Clear 1695m – Macalister Saddle- Macalister Spur – Square Top 1587m – Grimme Creek Track (intersection) – High Cone 1448m
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Gunai/Kurnai Country
Max elevation: 2156 m
Total climbing: 518 m
Total descent: -1324 m
Average speed: 3.58 km/h
Total time: 05:55:53
With a -6°C forecast and snow flurries, I wore all my clothing to bed, including down and Goretex jackets and overpants. At least it kept me comfortable; there was a heavy frost on the inside of the tent in the morning and snow on the outside. My boots, wet from yesterday, were frozen solid by morning.
The only solution to get the boots on was to heat them (very carefully) over my gas stove. A good twenty minutes later, they were soft enough to put on, but only after I’d modified a plastic bag to use as an outer sock. Damien did the same with his frozen boots. It worked, so I could finally get outside to collect water from the slow trickle next to the campsite and get breakfast started.
Chesters Yard Campsite
It took until after 10:20am to get underway, as we had a cloudless morning, and we had waited for the sun to defrost our tents and simultaneously solar-charged some batteries.
By the time we left camp, most of the snow exposed to sunlight had sublimated away. With no certain water supplies ahead today, I carried 3L, whilst Damien just had the day’s drinking water. He planned to find water nearer the camp at the end of the day, hoping the snowmelt had left water somewhere.
The plastic bags stayed on the feet for the first hour or so, as all areas yet to receive sunlight remained repositories of wet snow, which adhered very well to our boots and clothing with a slush puppy consistency, just as it had yesterday.
Throughout the day, as we passed along south-facing slopes, we repeatedly got wet. Whilst all other aspects had dry or almost dry vegetation. The descents on the snowy sections required extra vigilance, but regardless, a couple of slips were had.
Spoilt with spectacular views the last few days, today was still great, but not top tier. However, today was amazingly clear and we caught views back to Mount Feathertop and Mount Bogong, which we had passed by, what seemed ages ago.
Today’s tracks were relatively easy to follow, so much so that I walked straight past the AAWT turnoff to Mount Clear, following the continuation of the old vehicular track a couple of hundred metres past the turn before realising. I my defence, the AAWT marker was well concealed behind vegetation, but maybe I should have paid more attention to the odd ornament at the turn, two old concrete blocks with a “floral” arrangement of sticks. I had seen it and thought it a pretty odd placement for an artwork at the time!
The tracks were, in parts again, overgrown and only recognisable by the underlying brown of trampled earth barely visible through the gaps. There were many fallen trees today, the crossing of which was made more interesting by the deposits of snow that required straddling or, a couple of times, sitting on.
Views from between Square Top and High Cone
Just before High Cone, on the saddle leading to it, we pulled up for the night as Damien needed to collect enough snow to provide for his water needs. Returning to camp about an hour later, after sunset, with his garbage bag of snow, he now needed to set up camp, melt the snow and reduce the quantity of leaf and wooden bits from his collection.
I was more than happy I had carried my water, for the seemingly slightly greater effort of carrying two extra litres of water for the day, I avoided over an hour of extra work!
Damien
The worst morning of the trip. Although a bluebird day, the temperature was -6C. Snow on top of the tent, frost inside the tent and boots that were soaked yesterday are frozen solid now.
We started the stove and held the boots, socks, and pants over it. Basically, everything that was wet had to be unfrozen so it could be put on. However, this led to another problem – I would run out of gas before my next food drop.
We got going at 10:30am. This gave the sun time to hit the tents and remove some of the frost. During lunch, we laid the tents out and fully dried them on this glorious weather day.
In the shadows, some snow lay on the ground all day. We didn’t come across any water all day as the AAWT followed the ridge tops.
At the end of the day, we had a dry camp, and I had no water left. I managed to walk to an area nearby that still had some snow on logs, and I scraped it into a garbage bag. After melting it, I had to filter it too, as it had a lot of leaf litter in it, but this allowed me to have water for the night.
Day 49: Tuesday 20/05/2025 High Cone 1448m – Cone Camp – Nobs Track – The Nobs 1495 m – The Nobs Campsite – Nobs Track – AAWT – Barkley River East Branch – Campsite – Mount Macdonald Walking Track (intersection) – Mount McDonald 1620m – AAWT – STATE FOREST – Mount Sunday Road – Low Saddle Road – Low Saddle – Low Saddle Campsite
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Gunai/Kurnai Country
Max elevation: 1633 m
Total climbing: 958 m
Total descent: -1385 m
Average speed: 2.99 km/h
Total time: 09:12:39
With almost no gas left, Damien struggled a bit with the snow melting, but managed to get breakfast done. With a long 20km day ahead, we needed to get a good start, but could still only manage a 9:00am getaway.
The morning proceeded at a good, steady pace, the first climb warming us up. We found there was still snow on the southern aspects and later on the rocky backbones of the ridges of Mount MacDonald. Here, there was ice accumulated across the rock slabs over which much of the track passed. Where possible, I found alternatives on the dry, north-facing side, usually succeeding without too much effort.
I order to save time, for much of the day, if one of us stopped for a break or clothing adjustment, the other would continue walking. Today, this resulted in us walking solo a large majority of the way. I paused and waited 50 minutes for Damien at a crucial turn before Mount MacDonald. He had stopped for lunch, which I also had whilst waiting.
View from AAWT approaching Mount Macdonald
With it obvious that it was unlikely we would reach Low Saddle before dark, Damien suggested I go ahead again as he was feeling a bit sluggish. I continued apace, really enjoying the walk along the very interesting broken rocky spine of Mount Macdonald with its great views. Here, you need to keep your eyes peeled for clues about which way the track goes as it makes numerous deviations from one side of the ridge to the other. With the southern parts splattered with snow and ice, I continued to look for and find any dry, non-slippery alternatives.
As the afternoon wore on and the light faded, the sunnies came off, and the headlamp was turned on. I almost made it, as the headlamp was only required for the last kilometre. I found the campsite by the side of the road in complete darkness; the grass was already very thick with dew. My priority was to get the tent set up. Next, with the very last of my water, I made a cup of hot soup and then planned to head off to find more water.
Since I had only carried 3L of water from Chesters Yard yesterday morning, the 3L had to provide for two days of walking, two lunches, one breakfast and one dinner. Damien arrived just as I was about to start the water search, so I waited before we headed off into the darkness together. According to John Chapman’s guidebook, water could usually be found about 800m along the road in a small creek.
We found the bend in the road, a creek bed and no water. We were becoming concerned just as I picked up the reflection of a road marker at the next bend, so we headed there. Here, out of sight below the road, was the much-coveted water, although barely a trickle below the undergrowth. With great care and some effort, I got into the creek and collected 4L of glorious water. Damien did the same on the lower side of the road; it sounded like a better option for access.
Back at camp, dinner was finally prepared but not finished until after 9:00pm. Soon after, there were two very happy campers snuggling into their sleeping bags for the night.
Views from past Mount Macdonald
Damien
A difficult day of terrain was had after our dry camp, and we had to carry water for the full day again. I had the bag of snow that I collected the evening before; however, I ran out of gas to melt it. It became a problem as I found that my body heat was not enough to make any of it water. It was only when I strapped a couple of bags and bottles of snow to the top of my rucksack as I walked and exposed it to the sun for the whole day that it managed to melt.
I had to walk for an hour and a half in the dark with my torch to arrive at camp at 7:00pm. Then we had to walk north downhill on Low Saddle Road till we reached a culvert with a small creek flowing, where we could get our water for tonight and tomorrow. This water spot was described in John Chapman’s book on the AAWT.
It has really become the trend to have to carry water a lot along this southerly part of the AAWT.
Day 50: Wednesday 21/05/2025 Low Saddle – Low Saddle Campsite – Mount Sunday Road (intersection) – AAWT – Mount Sunday Campsite – Mount Sunday 1408 m – Mount McKinty Road – Mount McKinty 1350m – Peters Gorge (intersection) – Middle Ridge Road – Bicentennial National Trail – Middle Ridge Road Camp – Barkly River Logging Road (intersection) – Rumpff Saddle – Rumpff Saddle Campsite – Barkly River Jeep Track – Jamieson-Licola Road
State Forest / Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Gunai/Kurnai Country
Max elevation: 1552 m
Total climbing: 1430 m
Total descent: -829 m
Average speed: 3.56 km/h
Total time: 07:00:48
From Low Saddle, we headed off at 9:30am. We had a long day ahead of us in order to meet my wife, Sue, at Jamieson-Licola Road as planned, with her company and our next food supply on offer.
Today’s route followed the road briefly before the AAWT headed off to the left. The first part of the track, which looked like another old logging road, was overgrown with lots of large, beautiful ferns that we walked under and through. Further on, there was an uncleared section of fallen forest with many, many large trees to clamber over, under, through or around. This, of course, was very time-consuming, and progress was slow. Beyond the fallen forest was a long hill climb.
AAWT near Mount Sunday Road
Approaching Mount McKinty, there are a couple of dry campsites with views. On the summit, there is a very large open grassy area adjacent to a 4WD track, also suitable for camping but exposed to possible visits by vehicles.
At this point, Damien had suggested he wouldn’t get to our target until about 7:00pm. As I was really keen for a cold shower before it got too cold, we decided to proceed at our own paces.
From here, the rest of the day was spent walking along 4WD tracks, many sections of which would be incredibly challenging for any vehicle. Tyre tracks indicated recent use, which would have been very interesting to observe. One steep section had vertical earthen sides higher than a tall vehicle; other sections were very steep on rough bedrock with vertical sections around a metre in height. Walking these highly eroded, steep slopes, frequently covered with loose gravel, stones and rocks, was more than challenging enough!
Along depressions in flatter sections, there were many churned-up muddy puddles, often tens of metres in length, which every hiker needed to find a way around through the bush.
AAWT further south of Mount Sunday helipad
Despite all our recent walking, I was feeling strong today and walked fast all afternoon, skipped my lunch break, instead nibbling as I walked, aiming to get to the campervan in time for a shower before it got too cold in the late afternoon.
After hours of non-stop walking, I found myself at Rumpff Saddle campsite, a nice, grassy campsite situated at a track junction. My route from there was the 200m vertical climb along the very rough Barkly River Jeep Track to Jamieson-Licola Road, where Sue was waiting with our campervan.
After weeks deprived of an easy water supply and unwashed in the bush, on my 4:30pm arrival, it was great to see Sue and the van. Still, a shower was essential, so despite the temperature being about 5°C and the sun being obscured by a couple of trees, I got wet, cold and gloriously clean. It felt so refreshing and was a fitting finish to a 21km day with 1,400m of climbing.
Damien arrived well after dark at around his targeted 7:00pm. It was great for all of us to be able to sit down on cushioned seats with backrests and enjoy a delicious, chilly bean dish in the van, leaving the very cold air outside.
With no time to waste, we were then onto drying damp tents and sleeping bags, recharging electronics and fashioning a few repairs before a very comfortable inside night’s sleep.
Sunset from Fiddlers Green
Damien
We hit the trail at 9:00am, however, this still wouldn’t be early enough to cover the 17km to our food drop. There is a 1,400m elevation climb accumulated over the whole day. Luckily, I had spare batteries for my head torch that allowed me to walk for a further hour after sunset to reach our campsite/food drop.
After sunset, the temperature plummeted, and I really had to put on several layers of clothing and two sets of gloves as I trudged up the last 200m of vertical ascent.
Amongst other photographically recorded observations during this walk, we were able to confirm sightings of each of the following species: Eastern Grey Kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), Brumbies (feral horses), Kookaburra (Dacelo novaeguineae), Ring-tailed Possum (Pseudocheirus peregrinus), Lyrebird (Menura novaehollandiae)
Food Drop 9 Expedition Log Equipment List
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Information on Parks signage along the way
WILDERNESS ENTRY
The Australian Alps Walking Track is about to enter the Razor-Viking Wilderness.
The are no signs or directional markers to indicate the Australian Alps Walking Track for a distance of 20km. The route follows the Mt Howitt Barry Saddle Walking Track. Please be prepared for remote area navigation.
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)
Landscape Features
The AAWT between Selwyn Creek Road and Rumpff Saddle traverses a transition zone from the alpine and subalpine environments of the Victorian High Country to the lower, forested foothills and river valleys of the eastern Victorian Alps. The terrain descends from elevations of approximately 1,400 m near Selwyn Creek Road to around 1,000 m at Rumpff Saddle, moving through a mosaic of open grassy plains, snow gum woodlands, and dense eucalypt forests.
The landscape is shaped by fluvial and glacial processes, resulting in broad valleys, steep-sided gullies, and occasional granite outcrops. The track crosses several clear mountain streams, including tributaries of the Kiewa and Mitta Mitta Rivers, and passes through remote, sparsely populated areas with limited human infrastructure. The region is characterised by a sense of wilderness and natural beauty, with panoramic views from ridgelines and sheltered valleys.
Geology
The geology of this region is dominated by Palaeozoic granitic rocks of the Lachlan Fold Belt, with some areas featuring metasedimentary sequences. The high plains and upper slopes have been shaped by repeated glaciation during the Pleistocene, while the lower valleys and foothills are the result of fluvial erosion and deposition. Alluvial deposits and fertile soils are found in the valleys, supporting rich vegetation. The presence of granite outcrops and boulder fields is a distinctive feature of the higher elevations.
Scenic Highlights
Scenic highlights along this section of the AAWT include:
• Open High Plains and Snow Gum Woodlands: Expansive grassy plains and scattered snow gum woodlands, offering unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains.
• Forested Ridges and Valleys: Dense stands of tall eucalypts and mixed forests, providing habitat for a range of wildlife.
• Mountain Streams and River Crossings: Clear, fast-flowing streams and river crossings add to the scenic diversity of the landscape.
• Remote Wilderness: The sense of isolation and natural beauty is a defining feature of this section, with few signs of human activity.
• Rumpff Saddle: A significant topographic feature and historic route, marking the transition between the high country and the lower foothills.
Local Flora
The vegetation is highly varied, reflecting changes in altitude and aspect:
• Snow Gum Woodlands: Eucalyptus pauciflora dominates the subalpine zone, often with a dense understorey of shrubs and grasses.
• Alpine Grasslands: Snowgrass (Poa spp.) and wildflowers such as alpine daisies (Celmisia spp.) and everlasting daisies (Xerochrysum spp.) are common on the high plains.
• Montane Forests: At lower elevations, mountain ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) and alpine ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) forests are found in sheltered valleys.
• Heathlands and Shrublands: In exposed areas, heath species and low-growing shrubs are prevalent.
Local Fauna
The region supports a rich and diverse fauna, adapted to both alpine and forested environments:
• Mammals: Eastern grey kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), swamp wallaby (Wallabia bicolor), wombat (Vombatus ursinus), and the endangered mountain pygmy possum (Burramys parvus) in rock screes.
• Birds: Wedge-tailed eagle (Aquila audax), gang-gang cockatoo (Callocephalon fimbriatum), superb lyrebird (Menura novaehollandiae), and a variety of honeyeaters and parrots.
• Reptiles and Amphibians: Alpine water skink (Eulamprus kosciuskoi) and the endangered corroboree frog (Pseudophryne pengilleyi) in wetlands and bogs.
• Invertebrates: Diverse alpine and forest invertebrates, including endemic species adapted to cold, moist conditions.
Indigenous History
The traditional custodians of the land through which the AAWT passes in this region are the Gunai/Kurnai people. Gunai/Kurnai country encompasses much of the eastern Victorian Alps and the surrounding river valleys. The high country and river valleys were important seasonal gathering places for Indigenous peoples, who travelled to the area in summer to feast on Bogong moths (Agrotis infusa), a rich source of protein. The landscape holds deep spiritual and cultural significance, with evidence of occupation including artefact scatters, stone tools, and ceremonial sites. The Gunai/Kurnai people continue to maintain their cultural heritage and connection to country.
White History
European exploration and settlement of the area began in the mid-19th century, with pastoralists and graziers moving into the high country in search of summer grazing for cattle and sheep. The construction of huts and tracks reflects the pastoral heritage of the region. Rumpff Saddle was historically used as a route for mustering and droving stock between the high plains and the lower valleys. The remoteness of the area limited large-scale settlement, and the landscape remains largely undisturbed. In the 20th century, the establishment of the Alpine National Park transformed the region into a major destination for bushwalking, fishing, and nature-based tourism.
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These write ups and photo albums are so wonderful, full of detail and so much time has gone into it all, thank you.