Australian Alps Walking Track (SOBO – South Bound)
Section 5 (4 days): Days 28 – 31 to Food Drop 5
29/04/2025 – 2/05/2025 Limestone Creek Campground – Benambra-Corryong Road
Distance: 67.2km Total Ascent: 2,826m Total Descent: 3,114m
Time: 28 hours Moving Time: 17 hours
Participants: Damien Aggio (Report), Stephen Davies (Report, Photos)
Day 28: Tuesday 29/04/2025 Limestone Creek Campground – Limestone Creek – Limestone Creek Track – Stony Creek – AAWT (intersection) – Claire Creek – Limestone Creek – AAWT – Smoke Oh Creek – Dead Horse Creek – Macs Creek Road (intersection) – Mount Misery Trail – AAWT – Davies Plain Ridge – Buckwong Track – Buckwong Creek – Buckwong Hut
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1637 m
Total climbing: 1047 m
Total descent: -886 m
Average speed: 3.43 km/h
Total time: 08:58:29
We awoke to a cool, heavily overcast day with no chance of solar charging; luckily, our 4WD friend Steve had fully charged our battery last night. This morning, he mentioned they had seen a pack of wild dogs on the hillside behind their camp last night.
This morning, as we walked along Limestone Creek, we saw many kangaroos and a couple more brumbies.
Past the creek, after just cresting a steep incline on Limestone Creek Track, we had two motorcyclists ride past.
Later, after crossing Dead Horse Creek, we had a long, steep climb through Alpine Ash forest where lots of recent clearing work had been done, consisting of the chainsawing of fallen trees and cutting off of bushes growing on and over the track. We noted that there were already newly fallen trees. The track was well marked, in sections, with pink tape.
Beyond the steep hill, we had a short, easier stretch walking along the fire trail on Davies Plain Ridge. From the fire trail, the AAWT descent along Misery Trail is steep, the track being covered with loose rocks requiring slowing down to avoid rolling an ankle or falling.
Damien on AAWT past Misery Trail
At the bottom of the hill, the track seemed to cease to exist. Even the occasionally spotted AAWT track marker was far from convincing; even when followed, they seemed to have us off track. This was not aided by failing light. As the sunset and darkness set in, our headlamps were our only source of illumination. Now, making our route up as we went, we eventually reached a campsite about an hour after dark, just as a light shower began. We were both very pleased to get our tents set up and retreat inside for a good feed. The last couple of hours had been over very rough, uneven terrain along an indistinct, partially trackless route.
Now, along the flats of Buckwong Creek, we observed lots of horse droppings, as well as what appeared to be two cow pats. The horse variety commonly makes an excellent home for a variety of fungi species.
Damien
On the trail at 9:20am, initially, the walking was easy on a fire trail. The morning walk was undulating with regular water crossings, but the afternoon had no running water, so we had to carry it. The weather also deteriorated with black clouds threatening us, but no serious rain was encountered.
But after we summited the high point of the Misery Trail at 1628m elevation, the walking track peeled off to the left after 2km. It was here that the trail became very rough and steep underfoot. Soon, the trail petered out so that we couldn’t follow it easily, and it really slowed our progress. Unexpectedly, soon it was nightfall, and we were nowhere near camp or water. By torchlight, we proceeded to push through scrub, sometimes falling over on difficult-to-see logs and on inclines. Finally, we made it to camp at 7:00pm. It had taken us two hours to do the last 3km. Misty rain was occasionally falling; however, inside the tents was surprisingly dry throughout the night with no condensation present.
Day 29: Wednesday 30/04/2025 Buckwong Creek – Buckwong Track – Mount Murphy Track (intersection) – Greggs Track (intersection) – Cocky Creek – Mount Hope Road – Yellow Dog Track (intersection) – AAWT – Buenba Road (intersection) – Buenba Flat Track – Buenba Creek – Buenba Creek Campsite (South #1)
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1359 m
Total climbing: 431 m
Total descent: -691 m
Average speed: 4.30 km/h
Total time: 06:11:21
In the darkness of our arrival last night, we had blundered onto a descent campsite. Grassy, beside some trees and Buckwong Creek. Feeling more relaxed this morning, we didn’t set off around 9:30am. This started by walking along the fairly open creek flats and over a rocky outcrop before reaching Mount Murphy Track.
Just after crossing Buckwong Creek, there is a private hut surrounded by a grassy area. On inspection, we found someone had forced the door open by damaging the locks to gain entry.
A short time later, a young couple passing in a 4WD stopped and had a chat before we both headed off I opposite directions. Later in the day, a party of 3 4WDs passed by and a bit later again, a different group of 5 4WDs passed.
Buckwong Track nearing Mt Hope Road
We had an embarrassing moment along Mount Hope Road. After stopping roadside for lunch, hoping for a break in the very persistent cloud cover, we continued down the road. As a heavy cloud appeared overhead, the temperature took a tumble, and it started to rain. Damien put on his rain jacket, and I put up my umbrella before we continued. Twenty minutes later, knowing we had a turnoff to take, I stopped to check the map. We had walked past the AAWT turnoff 1,200m back!
Returning to the spot, we noted an AAWT track sign on a tree 10m off the road and a small roadside rock cairn. We had both not noticed either. I think we were both distracted by the weather, and I by my umbrella, likely hiding my view of the sign. Anyway, the Buenba Gap Track we followed from here was in great condition; it looked like someone had driven a ride-on lawn mower most of the way down.
Coming out of the forest after a couple of kilometres of gradual descent, we were met with a kangaroo grass-covered flat along Buenba Creek. After crossing the flat to Buenba Creek, we were at our campsite.
A cool breeze persisted until dusk before it became calm. It was very pleasant cooking and eating dinner under a clearing sky. The stars brightened as the sky darkened, and we watched a very bright satellite pass just to our south, likely the International Space Station.
We did not see another hiker all day.
Damien
We broke camp at 9:30am and found the first two hours easy walking on the fire trail.
Soon, the AAWT route diverted off the fire trail; however, we decided to ignore that and stick to the fire trail as we did not want a repeat of yesterday’s bush bash.
The fire trail ended up at the same point eventually, so there was no downside to this decision.
Unfortunately, after lunch, we missed a turnoff along the road we were on. This cost us almost an extra hour to backtrack to the turnoff. We must have been distracted by a sudden downpour that occurred, and we had to get into our rain gear, which also hampered our peripheral vision. By 4:00pm, we made it to camp on Buenba Creek. A most pleasant location with more wildlife than we had seen for two weeks.
Day 30: Thursday 1/05/2025 Buenba Creek Campsite (South #1) – Buenba Flaty Track – Buenba Creek – AAWT – Corner Creek Campsite – Corner Creek – AAWT – Johnnies Top (1566m) – Johnnies Top Water Tank
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1583 m
Total climbing: 834 m
Total descent: -115 m
Average speed: 3.73 km/h
Total time: 05:59:12
Buenba Creek Campsite is situated between a Kangaroo Grass plain and a lightly forested creek. It has good views of the surrounding slopes, and there were inquisitive kangaroos amongst the grasses.
With breakfast done, we were off downstream along Buenba Creek, first walking a vehicle track before entering the poorly tracked but well-marked route (pink tape) through the trees. The multitude of animal tracks through here made this potentially confusing.
As the valley narrows, the track becomes well defined and meanders along the valley slope before it opens up again on the approach to Corner Creek. Crossing Corner Creek through a dead tree and a log placed as a bridge to said tree. The track now followed the creek a little further downstream before turning left at the bottom of a ridge.
Buenba Creek crossing
The ridge soon becomes very steep and climbs steeply a couple of hundred metres before becoming a little less steep. In places during the ascent, you need to keep your eyes wide open to find the path the track takes. There were a few handy markers along the way.
We stopped about 500m up the ridge in a small sunlight spot for lunch, but had to move a couple of times to stay in the sun.
The track became less steep and easier to follow as the ascent progressed, so we now made better time in getting to Johnnies Top.
Climbing out of Buenba Creek
Having battled for days trying to get a clear sight of some blue sky for solar charging, I was pleased to get on the positive side of the energy budget, if only just, whilst chasing the solar collection today.
For the last two full days, I had been unable to get weather updates on my Garmin Messenger device. The Perplexity (LLM AI app) gave me the hint I needed to solve the issue. The terrestrial weather forecast update button was not showing on the app. The device would only look for marine weather (and I had not even subscribed to that service!). Why? Well, the default weather option to get a forecast for “My Location” was telling the device I was located over water? A GPS device that thinks its location is not where it actually is? Anyway, manually defining a nearby location solved the problem. Why it had happily been giving me updated weather forecasts for the previous 30 days, when set to “My Location” remains a mystery!!
Probably our coldest night of the trip to date, we retreated to our tents and put all our warm layers on. As our tents were about 100m apart, we both had a quiet night.
We did not see another person all day.
Damien
A cloudy start to the day greeted us as we got out of our tents. But soon this became a sunny but cold day. We used the first sunshine in a week to charge our electronics via Stephen’s solar panels placed outside his rucksack.
The trail was clear and easy to follow the whole day, even though John Chapman’s book warned that the trail was indistinct nearing the summit of Johnnie’s Top.
The water tank at the top was full, and we camped next to it. The temperature was very cold, and we retired to our beds as soon as the sun went down.
Day 31: Friday 2/05/2025 Johnnies Top (1566m) – Johnnies Top Water Tank – Johnnies Track – State Forest – Beloka Range Track – Wrap Track (intersection) – Turnback Creek Track – Deep Creek Track (intersection) – AAWT – Benambra-Corryong Road (intersection) – Benambra-Corryong Road “Campsite”
Alpine National Park, VICTORIA
Dhudhuroa Country
Max elevation: 1568 m
Total climbing: 246 m
Total descent: -1140 m
Average speed: 3.71 km/h
Total time: 06:43:29
We had a decent frost overnight, including over our tents. With the first cloud-free day in weeks forecast, we planned a late departure from camp, giving us some time to collect some solar charge and dry some gear.
Damien on Beloka Range Track
The morning sun didn’t disappoint, so we only started walking at 10:30am. The first part of the day was on fire trails, and after only 8km, we stopped in a sunny spot to catch more solar.
After lunch, the road continued for several more kilometres, including one steep, rocky section needing extra care with our footing. Further along, the AAWT departs from the fire trail at a small rock cairn. At first, the trail looks disused and sketchy, but improves a little a couple of hundred metres in. After the first part, the trail follows what appears to be an old logging road. This contours around the hillside and, apart from all the fallen trees and branches, provides an obvious and relatively easy route. Beyond the old road, the track moves onto a ridge, which is followed down to Benambra-Corryong Road. There are the occasional official track markers, of at least three different designs, and a string of rock cairns across a rock outcrop, indicating the route further down. In some places, the track was easily lost, but following the highest point of the ridge always helped re-find it.
Once down to Benambra-Corryong Road, we were pleased to find our next food drop and also find a small spot away from the road to set up camp for the night.
Another day of not seeing another person.
Damien on AAWT approaching Benambra – Corryong Road
Damien
It was our first frost in two weeks. It was a clear night and a morning with no wind. Great for recharging batteries with the solar panels, so we didn’t pack up camp till 10:30am to get the most out of the sun, as the forecast was for a cloudy afternoon. We also hung our down sleeping bags in the sun, as any small amount of moisture in them greatly reduces their efficiency. An hour is all it takes to puff up the sleeping bags to their maximum.
After that, we both took 2L of water from the tank as this whole day would be dry until the food drop in the evening.
Things went well during the day with mostly downhill fire trails to walk along. However, soon after lunch, the AAWT trail teed off to the left down an overgrown footpad with many logs across the trail. This greatly slowed our progress and made navigation more tricky. Consequently, we did not make camp until 4:30pm.
We found a secluded spot 100m from the road and set up our tents. I had to do a lot of clearing work on my hands and knees, as many small plants and twigs were protruding out of the ground that were quite spiky and could have punctured my air mattress.
The evening was very mild in temperature and calm, so we managed to stay outside until 8:00pm – one of our latest nights of the trip.
Food Drop 5 Expedition Log Equipment List
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The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)
Landscape Features
The AAWT section between Limestone Creek Campground and the Benambra–Corryong Road traverses the northern foothills and valleys of the Cobberas–Tingaringy unit within the Alpine National Park, Victoria. The terrain is characterised by rolling hills, forested ridges, and broad river valleys, with elevations generally ranging from 900 m to 1,500 m above sea level. The track follows watercourses such as Limestone Creek and the upper reaches of the Murray River tributaries, passing through deep gullies and open grassy flats. The landscape is shaped by fluvial erosion, resulting in steep-sided valleys, alluvial terraces, and occasional granite outcrops. The area is remote and largely undisturbed, with limited access and a sense of wilderness.
Geology
The geology of this region is dominated by Palaeozoic granites and metasedimentary rocks of the Lachlan Fold Belt. These rocks have been deeply weathered and eroded over millions of years, creating a landscape of rounded hills, rocky ridges, and fertile river valleys. Limestone outcrops are present in some areas, contributing to the formation of karst features such as caves and sinkholes. Alluvial deposits along the river valleys support rich soils and diverse vegetation.
Scenic Highlights
The AAWT through this section offers a series of scenic highlights, including:
• Limestone Creek Campground: A tranquil forested setting beside a clear mountain stream.
• Forested Ridges: Dense stands of tall eucalypts and mixed forests, providing shelter and habitat for a range of wildlife.
• Open Grassy Flats: Expansive meadows along the river valleys, offering panoramic views of the surrounding hills.
• River Crossings: Multiple crossings of clear, fast-flowing streams, including Limestone Creek and tributaries of the Murray River.
• Remote Wilderness: The sense of isolation and natural beauty is a defining feature of this section, with few signs of human activity.
Local Flora
The vegetation along this section of the AAWT is diverse, reflecting the varied topography and soil types. Tall mountain ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) and alpine ash (Eucalyptus delegatensis) forests dominate the higher slopes, while river flats and lower valleys support open grassy woodlands of yellow box (Eucalyptus melliodora) and white box (Eucalyptus albens). The understorey is rich in shrubs such as silver wattle (Acacia dealbata), and a variety of grasses and wildflowers. In sheltered gullies, montane rainforest remnants with myrtle beech (Nothofagus cunninghamii) and tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica) can be found.
Local Fauna
The region supports a rich array of wildlife, adapted to both forested and open environments. Notable species include:
• Mammals: Eastern grey kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), swamp wallaby (Wallabia bicolor), wombat (Vombatus ursinus), and platypus (Ornithorhynchus anatinus) in the rivers and streams.
• Birds: Superb lyrebird (Menura novaehollandiae), gang-gang cockatoo (Callocephalon fimbriatum), wedge-tailed eagle (Aquila audax), and a variety of parrots and honeyeaters.
• Reptiles and Amphibians: Common skinks (Egernia spp.) and frogs such as the southern brown tree frog (Litoria ewingii) in wetlands and streams.
• Invertebrates: Diverse forest and grassland invertebrates, including endemic species adapted to cool, moist conditions.
Indigenous History
The traditional custodians of the land through which the AAWT passes between Limestone Creek Campground and the Benambra–Corryong Road are the Gunai/Kurnai people. Gunai/Kurnai country encompasses much of the eastern Victorian Alps and the surrounding river valleys. The Gunai/Kurnai have a deep spiritual and cultural connection to the land, which provided seasonal resources for food, medicine, and tools. The high country and river valleys were used for summer gatherings, ceremonies, and trade with neighbouring groups. Evidence of Indigenous occupation, such as artefact scatters and stone tools, has been found throughout the region. The Gunai/Kurnai people continue to maintain their cultural heritage and connection to country.
White History
European exploration and settlement of the area began in the mid-19th century, following the expansion of pastoralism from the Monaro plains and the Omeo district. The river valleys and grassy flats were used for grazing cattle and sheep, with stockmen establishing huts and tracks for mustering and droving. The remoteness of the area limited large-scale settlement, and the landscape remains largely undisturbed. In the 20th century, the region became valued for its natural beauty and recreational opportunities, leading to the establishment of the Alpine National Park. Today, the area is a major destination for bushwalking, fishing, and nature appreciation.
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