Monday 27/10/2025 Yappa (Mulgowan) Aboriginal Art Site
Gundabooka National Park and State Conservation Area, NSW
Ngemba and Paakantji Country (Ngemba and Paakantji people)
Participants: Stephen Davies (Photos, Report), Sue Davies
The track to the Yappa (Mulgowan) Aboriginal Art Site begins at the signed carpark within Gundabooka National Park. It follows a well-marked trail of firm red earth and occasional stony patches, gently winding through open woodland before reaching the art site.
Max elevation: 187 m
Total climbing: 40 m
Total descent: -40 m
Average speed: 2.73 km/h
Total time: 00:46:42
Weather records for 27 October 2025 confirm a warm, dry day with no rainfall and a maximum temperature reaching 34 °C. The air was still and clear, with only a scattering of small clouds high in the sky and a gentle westerly breeze averaging around 15 km/h throughout the day. The conditions delivered a brilliant contrast between sky and land, with the ochre soils and weathered sandstone of the escarpment standing out starkly under the sunlight.
Dry creek bed along Mulgowan Art Walking Track
The track remains relatively level as it crosses a mix of sandy flats and cobbled creek beds. Progress is easy, with a wide, even surface and just a handful of short, rocky rises where care is needed. Near the end, the path climbs modestly to the shelter of the sandstone overhang where the art is located.
National Parks were in the process of upgrading the site when we visited. They are installing new fencing to protect the rock artworks and a viewing platform that extends the length of the overhang where the art is located.
The site itself is set against a shaded wall, protected by high ledges and fencing, and features impressive Aboriginal artworks in red, white, and yellow ochre. Interpretive signage shares the cultural significance of this place, reinforcing its status as a site of enduring spiritual and historical meaning.
The return journey follows the same track, offering fresh views across the surrounding tablelands. The atmosphere remains wide open, still, and dry, with the sun high and warmth radiating from both earth and rock.
Amongst other photographically recorded observations during this walk, we were able to confirm sightings of each of the following species: Eastern Grey Kangaroo (Macropus giganteus), Central Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)
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A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries
Information on Parks signage along the way
Gundabooka National Park and State Conservation Area
The Gundabooka area Ngemba ‘stone country people from the Cobar Peneplain, and the people who lived along the Darling River, Large ceremonial gatherings took place in certain areas of the Gunderbooka Range and groups travelled from as far away as the area that is now Broken Hill for these gatherings. Gundabooka is stil important to Aboriginal people, particularly people in Bourke and Brewarrina, and the art sites still have great cultural significance today.
This track will take you to Mulareenya Creek, which only flows after rain. Beside the creek, protected under rocky ledges are paintings of human figures, emus, hand and tool stencils, as well as paintings of the Brewarrina fish traps – one of the oldest human-made structures in the world.
The Gunderbooka Range is part of Balame’s travelling track across the land, which resulted in shaping landscape features. Balame is a Ngemba ancestral being who features in stories to the south east and north eastern lands around Gundabooka. Balame was instrumental in the creation of the Brewarrina fish traps, the Byrock Rock Holes the Barwon River and many other places in the area. Traditional owners recognise that Balame made these areas especially for the people.
There are many Aboriginal sites that have been recorded in Gundabooka National Park, including stone quarries scarred trees and areas of spiritual and ceremonial importance. The art sites on Mulareenya Creek are listed on the Register of the National Estate, recognising the great importance of this area to Aboriginal people.
Please respect the wishes of the traditional owners by protecting their cultural heritage sites.
See and Do in Gundabooka
Activities available to visitors in Gundabooka, including bushwalking, bird watching, cycling, photography and camping
Dry Tank Campground and Little Mountain Walk
Just past the Dry Tan ping area is the start a the Little Mountain Walk, which takes visitors through the mulga woodlands to the top of Little Mountain, revealing an awe-inspiring view of the entire northern escarpment of the Gunderbooka Range. The walk is 24 kilometres (4.8 kilometres return) and takes around 2 – 3 hours return.
Dry Tank Campground offers camping among the mulga and provides picnic toilet facilities
Yanda Campground
Is located just off the Bourke-Louth Road next to the Darling River in Gundabooka State Conservation Area. The campground is surrounded by tall River Red Gums and has barbecues, sheltered picnic tables and toilets.
Bennett’s Gorge and the Valley of the Eagle Walk (Ngana Malyan)
From the Bennet’s Gorge car park, visitors can walk to the base of Gunderbooka Range – an easy track one kilometre each way. More experienced trekkers can take the Valley of the Eagle (Ngana Maliyan) walking track, which is a rocky 2.8 kilometre climb to the top of the mountain, ascending 350 metres and providing incredible views of the vast outback landscape.
Bennett’s Gorge provides a picnic area, barbecue and toilets
Gundabooka National Park Natural Heritage
Gundabooka is located approximately 50 kilometres south-west of Bourke and 110 km north of Cobar. Made up of a National Park and the Darling River in the north to the Gunderbooka Range in the south and covers an area of 89,103 hectares.
Gundabooka protects culturally-significant Aboriginal and European heritage, threatened plant and animal species and landscapes
The Gunderbooka Range is the centrepiece of Gundabooka National Park, as it rises dramatically 350 metres above the surrounding plains to a height of 495 metres above sea level.
Geologically, the range is a 385 million year old eroded syncline (fold in rock layers) of quartzite sandstones that forms a horseshoe shape. Mulareenya Creek drains the eastern portion of the Gunderbooka Range.
Within the park, there is a diverse landscape ranging from the rocky gorges of the Gunderbooka Range to shady creek beds, ephemeral water holes and scrub-covered slopes and plains. Vegetation in Gundabooka changes with the landscape – twenty-one different plant communities have been identified within the park. Giant River Red Gums (Eucalyptus comaldulensis) follow the banks of the Darling River, giving way to woodland plains of Bimble Box (Eucalyptus populneal, Red Ba (Eucalyptus polyanthemos), Leopardwood (Flindersia maculosa) and Mulga (Acacia aneural away from the river. Stands of Belah (Casuarina cristatal and ironwood occur on plains, whilst thick stands of White Cypress Pine (Calitris columelloris) and Grey Mallee can be found on hills and slopes. More than 180 native animal species have been recorded throughout Gundabooka NP and SCA.
Over 130 bird species occur within the park including Australia’s largest bird of prey, the majestic Wedge-Tailed Eagle (Aquila audaxl, and spectacular Pink Cockatoos (Lophochroa leadbeateri). There is a great diversity of reptiles and amphibians at Gundabooka and visitors may come across Lace Monitors (Maranus varius) and Shingleback Lizards (Tiliqua rugosa) foraging through the grasslands and Crucifix Frogs (Notaden bennetti) after rain.
Visitors are likely to see Emus, Red Kangaroos and Eastern Grey and Western Grey Kangaroos throughout the area. Small marsupials have been observed but are more elusive, such as the endangered Kultarr (Antechinomys loniger), a mouse-sized marsupial that nests in cracks in the soil.
Pastoral History
European movement into the Bourke area began with exploration by Charles Sturt in 1829. Pastoral properties were developed initially along the frontages of the Darling River from the 1860s. The properties Ben Lomond, Belah, and Mulgowan’ that make up Gundabooka NP and Yanda’ that comprises Gundabooka SCA are representatives of the type of pastoral properties that existed in north western New South Wales in the mid-twentieth century. Grazing of sheep and cattle was the main land use of these properties.
The park holds physical reminders of this pastoral period through homesteads. shearing sheds and sheep yards as well as features of the landscape in mulga post fences, tanks and telegraph lines. Visitors car stay at the Belah Shearer’s Quarters, built in the mid-twentieth century for shearers when the property was a sheep station.
Buildings and infrastructure retained on park testify to the struggle many families had maintaining economic viability in a difficult environment. There are many people living in the Bourke area today who have personal connections with these properties from its pastoral period.
Park Use
Remote Area Warning
You are now in a remote area and are reminded to always carry extra food, fuel and water in case you become stranded
Outback NSW can be very hot in summer, and you must be prepared for extreme conditions. Always ensure that you carry plenty of water with you and be aware of the dangers of walling. long distances in extreme heat.
If you become stranded, you are advised to remain with your vehicle as you will have a better chance of being located. It is a good idea to let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return.
Venomous snakes can be deadly – keep an eye out, especially during warmer months and wear covered shoes.
The local landscape features, geology, scenic highlights, flora, fauna, Indigenous history, white history and other nearby walks in the area (Perplexity AI Model)
Landscape Features
The site lies within the Gunderbooka Range, in proximity to Mulareenya Creek, and features a classic outback terrain characterised by red sandy soils, gentle woodland platforms, dry creek beds, and a dramatic rock overhang. The walking track to the site is 1.4 kilometres return with approximately 40 metres elevation gain. Vegetation includes parched yellow grasses and stands of mature gum trees, with outcropping boulders leading to the art shelter.
Geology
Gunderbooka Range is composed of sedimentary rocks, including ancient sandstone overhangs hosting the rock art, with features shaped by erosion and weathering processes. The area’s red soils are indicative of weathered iron oxides common in arid mainland Australia. Geologically, the overhangs and creek beds reflect episodic water flow and sediment deposition, while rugged ridges such as Mount Gunderbooka rise up to 500 metres above the surrounding floodplain.
Scenic Highlights
Notable scenic attributes include the vast, open woodlands, prominent rocky platforms, and the imposing overhang adorned with Aboriginal art. The remote ambience, uninterrupted views of bushland, sightings of kangaroos, emus, and birdlife, and the immersive outback atmosphere create a distinctive visual experience. The lookout offers views of animal motifs, hand stencils, dancers, and ceremonial figures in the art shelter.
Local Flora
The vegetation comprises river red gums along creek lines, bimble box and western red box woodlands, as well as mulga, belah, ironwood, white cypress pine, and grey mallee. These species are adapted to semi-arid conditions and play a role in stabilising soil and providing habitat. Their presence reflects both floodplain and upland woodland community structures.
Local Fauna
The area supports iconic Australian fauna, notably red kangaroos, western grey kangaroos, wallaroos, emus, and prolific birdlife, including hooded robins and pink cockatoos. Feral goats are common along access roads. These species utilise woodland, grassland, and creekline habitats in the park’s mosaic landscape.
Indigenous History
Gundabooka National Park is the country of the Ngemba and Paakandji (also spelled Baakandji) peoples, with strong ceremonial and spiritual associations. The art site is attributed to these communities, incorporating Dreaming stories including ancestral creator Baiame and the Rainbow Serpent, with motifs of animals important in creation narratives. Ceremonial events, art shelters, campsites, stone quarries, and scarred trees highlight ongoing cultural practices and connections.
White History
European history in the near vicinity began in the early-to-mid 19th century, with explorers such as Charles Sturt noting the Gunderbooka Range in 1829. Pastoral use commenced in the late 1800s, with the range integrated into sheep stations such as Ben Lomond, Belah, and Mulgowan, which now form part of the national park. Structures, including homesteads, shearing sheds, tanks, and stockyards, remain as reminders of grazing and agricultural endeavours that shaped the landscape following colonisation and the displacement of Aboriginal people.
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A detailed, searchable trip list with links to reports, photo galleries
