18/12/1985 – 4/1/1986 Annapurna “Circuit”
NEPAL
Participants: Peter Davies, Stephen Davies (Report, Photos), Ram Hari Kndel (Porter), Ram Karki (Guide), John Meehan (1 day)
Steve and Pete’s tale of their 1985 trek from Dumre to Manang on which they encountered an overnight snowfall of about 1 metre at Hongde. We had arrived at Hongde where we encountered a very significant snowfall which forced us to abandon our plan to complete the Annapurna Circuit. As the weather improved and after some retreating parties set tracks in the snow we managed to get a little way up past Manang to check the scenery before turning back.
The trekking map below indicates our route. It should be noted that the spelling of place names often varied both between different maps and signs around the trek. I have tried to stick to the names used on the maps displayed for each day.
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Day 1: Wednesday 18/12/1985 Kathmandu – Dumre – Bhote Odar
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
We were up at 5:30am walking through the morning mist of Kathmandu to the trekking agency where we were to meet our guide. Here we waited and waited until l one of our porters arrived an hour later. Another hour later our guide Ram Karki arrived.
From here we walked to the bus stop. This was pretty comfortable but of Nepalese person width. On departing Kathmandu our bus wound down around the mountain side into the valley below. We passed several vehicles exchanging tyres. Beautiful mist rolling into the valley after pouring out from the Katmandu Valley above. After several stops later we arrived at Dumre.
Here we tried the local donuts, rice, curry and spinach for lunch and waited a while whilst Ram did some delicate negotiating on our behalf for a seat in the jeep to Bhote Odar. He eventually succeeded. This involved removing all passengers who had jumped on already by offering a higher price of 5Rs each (we thought was very steep at the time) and guaranteeing a limit of 10 passengers. We then sat by waiting in jeep while negotiations continued at the nearby office desk and whilst waiting for a tyre to be fixed.
Meanwhile the driver was filling a plastic fuel tank with cigarette in hand. We eventually got moving for a very rough ride to Bhote Odar. Along the way we got bogged and at one point had 18 people on board for parts of the three hour trip.
We stayed overnight at the Hotel Marsyandi and were somewhat surprised they had toilets and cold showers. Had the greasiest pancake ever for dinner, washed down with lemon tea and a nip of Cointreau.
Day 2: Thursday 19/12/1985 Bhote Odar
Electricity supply was via a noisy 5kW 32V generator. This made getting to sleep difficult but a series of early morning horn lasts from the local bus service had us up early, after earlier being woken by a barking dog.
Porridge and lemon tea for breakfast. Thereafter we sorted our gear for the porters to carry and then left about 8:30m. From Bhote Odar we wandered through some wonderful countryside, with lots of variety in the design of dwellings and plenty of people out and about on the roads going about their business.
Peter and John starting out with our guide and porter from Bhote Odar
We stopped about 10:30am after John Meehan passed some blood whilst urinating and quickly decided he shouldn’t continue. So we all turned around and discussed the options. We got John a ride back to Dumre in the 4WD and quickly walked back ourselves. Rams organised transport out and went with John to Dumre to get him on a bus back to Katmandu, with us hoping the problem wasn’t serious. It appeared a plastic tube inserted to prevent adhesions after a recent surgery may have been pushed too firmly against his flesh, possibly from his pack’s hip belt.
We therefore started off glumly to continue our trek. It wasn’t too long until our mood picked up with numerous delightful encounters with the locals. We played volleyball, gave away one balloon, walked up to water tap accosted by local kids “What country you come?” We had a look at a couple of their school textbooks and were quite surprised (by our ignorance). They were being taught English as a second language along with some pretty tough grammatical stuff. One 18 year old provided some written notes of what he knew.
Notes offered by 18 year old student at Bhote Odar 19/12/1985
Their education appears much better than I might have guessed.
We stayed off all the local food after breakfast, mainly because Peter was complaining of slight diarrhoea and lethargy and also to give us both more time to acclimatise to the local bugs.
We went for a late afternoon walk to capture some photos and were stunned by the interest of the locals in my camera gear, especially the 6cmx6cm Yashica medium format twin lens reflex camera. I showed many of them the view through the viewfinder, getting many laughs and giggles at the inverted reversed view. The tripod appears to have most of them mystified.
Headed to bed after a very light meal of biscuits and tea. After playing rummy with our Porters and talking for a while with serval Scandinavian trekkers and a Boston based astrophysicist.
Day 3: Friday 20/12/1985 Bhote Odar – Khundi
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Awoke not knowing if Ram was back so rolled over and went back to sleep. Ram arrived somewhat later at 9:45pm after safely getting John onto a bus back to Kathmandu.
Got our gear together and packed before having porridge, iodine soaked oranges and milo for breakfast.
We started out at 8:50am and walked through some really varied scenery up along the way.
By 10:30am we had already passed through several small villages and our porters were already hungry, so we stopped early for lunch, boy do they like their rice! (and yet don’t get tempted by many other things).
Our guide Ram at Besishhahar 20/12/1985 (24mm, f2.8)
Further on we passed a few residents of Manang heading down to spend the winter in Kathmandu. Are we too late?
Both Peter and are I now feeling much better, with much more settled digestive systems, after spending a day off the local food.
Settled for biscuits and lemon tea for lunch, passed through a large village called Besisahar. Saw one poor crippled guy walking around on his knees.
Arrived at Khundi (consisting of about 10-20 houses) just on dark, about 6 hours walk from Bhote Odar. Crossed our first suspension bridges. I was swamped every time the camera came out, with all the locals very keen to examine the camera viewfinder.
Loads being carried by the local porters included 10 sheets of roofing iron, grass bundles, tins, etc.
Had a local tea, rice, dahl, vegetables and tea with slightly warm spring water.
There was no electricity supply in this village, so our lighting was provided by a few small wick based kero lights and candles. The really small, neat kitchen formed the focal point of the house.
Today’s notes written up under the light of a half moon.
Signs on our accommodation. “Well-come to you O.K.” and “Only the wearer knows where the pinches”
Weather consistent to date with morning mists / smog clearing about midday to clear skies. It was then pretty warm until the sun dropped below the hilltops, after which the temperature dropped very quickly. Rams Karki appears totally impervious to these temperature variations, walking all day wearing both his jumper and coat apparently without overheating whilst Peter and I wearing just shirts quickly became wet from perspiration during the day.
Day 4: Saturday 21/12/1985 Khundi – Bahundanda Hotel
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Peter lost his watch washing last night and it remains missing this morning.
We reorganised our gear again, as now we have a better feel for what we might need on hand during the day, this meaning we didn’t get away until 9:00am. Bed, breakfast and dinner cost us 51Rs.
We had a top view up the river towards the mountains. It looked like it might be a very stop-start day for a while but then the villages disappeared after the one at the footbridge, at least until our 1:00am lunch break at Ngatti. Here we had Nabisco Malt Glucose biscuits and lemon tea.
Our guide and porters also like their cigarettes, coughing being common amongst them in the morning. Spitting and nose blowing in public places being common and fully accepted.
Lunch at Himalaya Restaurant and Lodge, Lamjung Ngatti (Nayan Gaun) for 54Rs
After lunch the track steepened, gaining 500m by Bahundanda. We passed through what appeared closer to natural vegetation, then back into steeply terraced rice paddies.
Ramsi keeping up very well. I showed Ram Karhi how the Yashica camera works, he should be able to take photos with it very soon.
Arrived at Bahundanda Hotel about 4:00pm wanting a wash but with the nearest suitable water a 15min walk away so we did without. The hotel had a very steep narrow staircase leading upstairs to our room, so we hoped we wouldn’t need a quick toilet visit during the night!
Met some of the locals the usual way, with the camera out and taking photos. I was taken down to the local secondary school which covered years 1 through 10, taking photos of some of my new local friends against their school. I don’t know how up to date the school’s English textbooks were but they indicated the average annual income in Nepal was 1000Rs, India 1200Rs and China 1900Rs.
Shree Chandradaya Secondary School, Bahundanda 21/12/1985 (24mm, f2.8, 1/15s Tripod)
Today we had a short four hours of walking with a good hour off for lunch, we could easily get used to this pace! Peter spent most of the afternoon upstairs in his room boiling water and reading a novel (trying to avoid the locals?)
Here the sun had disappeared behind the mountains by 4:00pm.
Day 5: Sunday 22/12/1985 Bahundanda Hotel – Chamje
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Awoke in the cool (12C) dark dingy attic at sunrise with a settled stomach. Started on lemon tea as the sun rose over the ridge behind us. Looks like I will try out my boots today as something feels little out of place in my right ankle.
Breakfast saw three chickens wandering around our feet in the dining room. The usual early morning sounds abound – coughing and spitting but fortunately no horns out here.
We were away by 9:00am descending down a steep hill before stopping to photograph a donkey train. “Laying” in wait to “ambush” the action as it went past, it turned off before us to go via a concealed (from our position) alternate route 30m below! We passed through some very steep terraces in our first half-hour before passing into native scrub.
Lunch at Syange, a bridge crossing point, still less than half way to our planned destination of Manang (3350m).
Our guide Ram with Steve (50mm, f4, 1/60s, Pol)
Very interesting that only white rice was available. Meals all rice, potato curry, dahl with some vegetables – correctly eaten with the right hand pointing downwards.
After lunch we entered a narrower section of the valley with some very steep surrounding terraces.
Met a young Danish girl again at lunch – full of laughs, also a Canadian, travelling with two Thais, who said he knew where we could get some good hash up the valley.
We gained about 100m in the afternoon.
Had a break at Jagat, taking some portraits. Beat our guide and porters into Chamje by 10 minutes. Beautiful spot with a nearby waterfall overlooking the Marsyangdi River.
We had the company of four Dutch people and two others tonight – they were on their way out after only reaching Pisang before getting sick.
Particularly noteworthy so far has been the dust-dry landscape and prolific litter – lots and lots of biscuit wrappers.
We gathered around the kitchen fire as it got colder before getting into a huge serve and seconds of rice dahl and curried vegetables, lemon tea, Tibetan Bread and jam – an acquired taste, which I have come to really like.
We taught the boys how to play 500. They caught on really quickly and we all had a lot of fun.
The bedroom and hotel much cleaner and more civilised than yesterday’s. It even has running water – in and out. A two-tone roof, half of corrugated iron and the other half of slates.
Day 6: Monday 23/12/1985 Chamje – Bagarchhap
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Awoke for sunrise again but watched from bed. We’re into the valley proper now so will probably only catch a little sun around midday. The head of the house last night ate with his left hand, used a handkerchief and licked his plate clean!
Crossed a bridge soon after starting the day and passed an old disused one about 50m upstream. Walked along the river side bank climbing gradually up towards Tal (1707m). Below Tal the narrow quickly falling river valley contained a fast river which widened considerably near Tal. This section provided top views of Tal itself and a waterfall and rocky mountain further up the valley.
We had lunch on tables left behind by a party that had climbed Annapurna 3 – one packet of biscuits and some lemon tea.
Took some more photos and collected the usual crowd fairly quickly, especially with the 500mm mirror lens in use.
We pushed on after lunch doing some more climbing and crossed a rather fresh rockslide. Across this our porters showed considerable respect by walking at double their usual pace.
From here we walked through Dharapani (1943m) and arrived at Bagarchhap (2163m) at about 4:00pm, where we would spend the night.
Check out the toilet – natural plumbing.
“Flushing” toilet, Bagarchhap 23/12/1985
Pre-dinnered on some Cointreau, even felt a little tipsy. Another classic small kitchen with 10” high stove and chimney. There was lots of meat hanging from the roof drying and the usual collection of stainless steel plates and cups in the typical dark dingy room. Ram didn’t recommend the rice and dhal on offer here, he said they didn’t know how to make it so we had noodles with vegetables and two serves of lemon tea instead.
Played a couple of hands of 500 at the boys insistence. Overnight it got down to 2C.
Day 7: Tuesday 24/12/1985 Bagarchhap – Neu Bra Tang Maya Hotel, Bhratang
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Got up early with the temperature about 5C. Packed and wandered downstairs for breakfast. Lemon tea with a new form of “porridge” consisting of toasted ground grain the consistency of pancake batter.
We left at 7:50am in woollen pants, thermal underwear and shirt. Small puddles were frozen. Peter had awoken with a cold and had been feeling its effects during the morning’s walk, so we stopped for lemon tea at Lasha Hotel in Latermarang (Ratamron) with Peter checking his medical kit for some drugs by 9:30am.
Observed a cat skin hanging from balcony roof this morning. Progressing upwards, we gained about 500m today but passed the hot springs without trying them.
Today we walked through some different scenery with lots of pine trees. It was turning very cold as we had our thermal underwear on all day. We passed numerous frozen puddles and found icicles in the creek at Chame (2713m). Decidedly colder now having added a fibrefill jacket and woollen trousers. Chame looks like a really nice spot with some sort of mining or waterworks on the hillside above. We can see a cloud covered Annapurna II.
24/12/1985
We were very hungry at lunchtime having lots of rice and dahl.
Thereafter we continued uphill for almost 3 hours, passing no settlements of any note but lots of pine forest and quite a few areas that had been devastated by rockslides / landslides. Very cold at lunchtime but the slight breeze eased off in the afternoon so we were able to take the thermopile jacket off and remain comfortable walking without it.
My head felt much the same all day, feeling slightly lightheaded and on a couple occasions a little faint. Breathing possibly a little more laboured climbing the hills but no other altitude induced effects as yet.
After a little navigational confusion we found ourselves at the Neu Bra Tang Maya Hotel, or at least out the back under the pine trees, as it was already full. Just over the river was a rather large frozen waterfall that looked spectacular – although didn’t have copious quantities of ice.
Characteristic of a lot of the places we have seen up here was the extensive firewood piles that form fences near or next to the buildings. Passed a few shrines along the track today but was also starting to slow down compared to Ram. The cold has reduced the desire to stop and take photos, especially using the tripod.
There was the now usual throng of animals through and in the kitchen during dinner preparations – a dog, a couple of chickens and one cow in the courtyard. Pete reckons we must be getting used to some of the local bugs by now – certainly hope so. We used the “toilets” at lunchtime today. Why not, seeing how few and far apart they are.
Bagarchhap 24/12/1985 (80mm, f2.8, 1/500s)
Don’t think we’ll be able to ring home tomorrow for Christmas somehow and we will really be pushing hard to get as far as Manang.
Sighted some massive mountains this afternoon, possibly Annapurna II. Lunch of rice and dahl was very welcome today but we must start increasing the fluid intake.
Rooms at this hotel contained about six beds each. Overtaken by some New Zealanders who wanted to get to Manang tonight and had only taken three days to get this far from Kathmandu. Another party of three we met a couple of days ago as well.
A top evening was enjoyed, we dined well on fried rice and vegetables which was a nice change and very tasty. A massive bowl of rice and vegetables was needed for the 18 people around the fire tonight – it was very cold outside.
A real Christmas atmosphere pervaded in the place despite it not being on the local calendar. Lots of laughter (with some hungry kids crying in the background) and some especially happy faces as a bowl of biscuit, crushed walnut and chocolate dish was passed around to share.
Day 8: Wednesday 25/12/1985 Bhratang – Hongde
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
A very cold night at -2C and with a cold wind.
Two scrambled eggs and a small slice of Christmas cake for Christmas breakfast. I handed out some balloons to the local children which seemed much appreciated. This morning we packed and left walking in our down filled duvet and it still felt cold in the shade with the wind.
The valley ahead started out very narrow with really big walls on both sides. Phenomenal landslides leaving pine trees perched 100’s of feet above the river below with course pebbles left behind on the bare ground.
We started warming up as the wind eased, ending up in shorts and thermal tops. Further up the valley widened significantly and we began to catch ever more dramatic views of Annapurna II, Pisang, and the other surrounding peaks. With scenery like this there was frequent stopping and starting today for photos.
Lunch at Little Pisang 25/12/1985 (24mm, f5.6, 1/20s, Tripod)
Most of today was spent walking amongst extensive pine forests, devoid of villages. I was feeling much better today with no lightheadedness, just puffing a little at times up the hills. Ram mentioned he had done some climbing to 26,000’ without oxygen.
Later in the day we climbed up a steep hill with great views both up and back down the Marsyangdi River valley. On top of a small pass it was very cold with a slight breeze but we stopped anyway and took photos in both directions.
We arrived at Hongde (3322m) about 4:00pm after a quick section along a much flatter and wider valley, the afternoon was very cold at 1C.
Our arrival a the fairly large hotel with about 12 rooms resulted in some confusion as all but two of the rooms were locked for the winter. The hotel owner, like many other locals had already left to spend the winter in Kathmandu. The caretaker was not being terribly helpful room wise. Our New Zealander friends had arrived in the late morning. We were able to arrange to share rooms with them, with Ram and our porters to sleep in the kitchen.
Our Christmas dinner consisted of a goodly serving of rice, mustard leaf and potato curry with three cups of lemon tea.
The other four staying here were planning on some ice climbing and trying to sneak in a summiting of Chulu Peak. We eventually got into a longer game of 500 with the boys. Pete went to bed with a headache. I heard a few bursts of noisy, rapid breathing from him during the night.
I noticed it had begun to snow around late evening.
Day 9: Thursday 26/12/1985 Hongde
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
A sleep in day. Snow had been falling throughout the night and there is about 6cm on the ground. It was very still and around 0C.
We took some time getting up. Pete made some porridge and milo as I tidied up some gear and watched a cow clean one of the eating plates,. The three dogs, a couple of goats and two cows have full run of this place.
The other four eventually wandered off to try some ice climbing.
The kitchen as usual was very dark and dingy (as have been most of the kitchens and rooms we have stayed in). This is probably just as well as we can’t properly see how dirty these places really are.
Last night’s plans for today have been squashed by the new snowfall, so we may just try for Manang after lunch. Ram presently introducing some of the locals to 500.
Boys issued with freezer bags for their feet and gloves in the form of spare woollen socks, as they didn’t bring suitable gear. A couple of slices of Christmas pudding this morning was a nice treat. Light, fine grained snow was still falling through the middle of the day.
Apparently two Italians were wiped out and killed about a month ago in one of the landslides we had crossed yesterday. There was also a Dutch couple disappear near Thorong La around the same time.
Unless the snow stops falling soon we may not be able to complete the circuit as planned. We now know why the locals keep such large wood piles.
Snow continued to fall all afternoon. It remained very still and below zero all day, the snow depth reaching about 12” by nightfall. I entertained myself by taking numerous photos out of the upstairs barn doors.
A couple of other groups wandered in during the afternoon looking for accommodation. With most rooms here still locked they were forced to try their luck elsewhere.
Potato curry for lunch and noodle soup of dinner – we added several packets of biscuits as well.
We got into a long game of cards with numerous changes in participants and multiple variations of the rules of 500 during the evening.
Day 10: Friday 27/12/1985 Hongde
We had 2’ (70cm) of snow on the ground by morning with thick deposits on roofs and everywhere else. It wasn’t finished yet, the heavy falls were still in progress.
Slowly we got organised, having three chapatis for breakfast as they have run out of eggs, dahl and lemons.
Two parties decided to exit this morning. I wouldn’t like to be crossing the landslide slopes, too dangerous for my liking, or walk the tracks with this much snow fallen, very hard work setting new tracks in fresh snow that deep. Suppose the avalanche danger must increase with time if anything. It’s still bucketing down but we now have occasional wind gusts which may be a sign of a change.
The climbing group plan to deplete their remaining food supplies today and then head out tomorrow if there is no change in the weather. As for us, who knows, as our guide and porters are not properly equipped for snow travel so we may be stuck here for some time yet.
The courtyard resembled a circus this morning as Peter posed for a couple of photos in the snow.
Hotel Hongde 26/12/1985
Kitchen observations – smoke rising to the roof before slowly drifting out the top of the doors (so that’s why they sit on the floor!). Snow and cold air drifting in through the window causing a sharp inversion layer of smoke. All the interior roofs covered by an interesting silvery black layer of soot from the lack of chimneys. Lighting very poor everywhere, wicked kerosene lamps, which were just fractionally better than nothing I suppose.
Two other parties suffered diarrhoea, seems to be a 24 hours bug.
Had a bit of a play in the snow during the afternoon, beautiful and light very dry. This included a 100m race, with tackling allowed, we were still puffing 2 minutes after we’d finished. Talk about hard work. Tried a somersault and almost suffocated, wouldn’t like to be in an avalanche.
The snow continued dumping all day, with a good 80cm on the ground by the evening.
A group of nine people wandered in late in the afternoon, they all looked totally exhausted from their efforts. Nine hours of walking and setting tracks through thigh deep snow from Manang. They left again early the next morning not wanting to have to do it again.
Invited out for dinner and gratefully accepted. Rice, vegetables (onion, garlic and ginger) and tuna casserole like dish. Banana cake and chapatis rolled on wooden bed with dirty hands (at least they finished cleaner!)
We tried Dave, Kathy and Michael’s home made Baileys but were not overly impressed, so retreated to Cointreau with fresh snow – that was great.
We noted some parting of the clouds during the evening but were in bed by about 7:30pm after playing yet more cards then some Bartok. Again shared a room with Dave and Nina.
Two kids here have taken great delight in a couple of our bits of rubbish. Kodak film packages, lolly containers and labels which seemed to remain their prized possessions for a few days.
Total bill for three nights and days at Hongde 385Rs
Day 11: Saturday 28/12/1985 Hongde – Manang
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
We were up just before dawn to clear skies with lots of stars and a nearly full moon. My stomach was a little unsettled from last nights offerings but no big deal. We climbed up onto the roof soon after sunrise for some photos, which were made difficult by particularly cold fingers and snow being shovelled off the roof with home made, wooden shovels. Everyone was very relieved with the improvement in the weather. It felt very pleasant as the first rays of sunlight reached and warmed us.
We stuffed around for a little while before making porridge and milo for breakfast. Our stomachs settling down nicely after some food. Pete seems to have a dose of cabin fever, with his head being stuck in his book. Pete and I alone left for Manang (3350m) at 11:30am. Despite that large group setting tracks along this route yesterday it was still pretty hard work for the first hour until we were passed by another group heading back down, who, having further compacted the snow, improved the ease of walking for us no end.
Along this section we caught some superb views and took numerous hand held photos (as the tripod wasn’t going to get much support in this deep soft snow!). We sighted one avalanche high above us on the far side of the valley wall and also heard a report of an avalanche unroofing a school in Pisang.
Peter near Manang 28/12/1985
Still short of Manang we were starting to tire badly, with Pete complaining that we should turn around and start heading back. He was after all still suffering a bit from the cold he had had for almost a week. Regardless, we pushed on as the sun dropped behind Annapurna II, after which it quickly became much colder, and we finally reached Manang (3350m) at 3:38pm, 4 hours after leaving Hongde (3322m). This was way quicker than the 9 hours the retreating group took breaking the track through fresh snow on their way out yesterday.
With all the snow about we ended up a little wet in spots towards the end and were glad to have placed freezer bags over our socks at the start of the day.
On arriving in Manang I got the camera and tripod out and took a series of 14 6x6cm photos, in panorama format and five 35mm photos.
The only hotel left open in Manang was the Manang Hotel and Restaurant. This, however, looked pretty locked up when we arrived. We were, however, very lucky that the owner had noticed our arrival and returned from further up the track to open just for us.
He was really welcoming. We spent plenty of time sitting around the fire drying out and warming up. There were some nice colours in the sky at sunset but it was too contrasty for any decent photos.
Our room was characterised by being much better lit than all the others we had stayed in so far – thanks to a kerosene tilly lamp. On the other hand, the animal droppings all over the floor reflected the relative importance of balancing a westerner guest’s needs with that of keeping the farm animals healthy.
We both very much looked forward to rice and dahl for dinner as we had only eaten small snacks during the day.
Thurong La Pass appears to be definitely out for the rest of winter, with an estimated seven feet of fresh snow now on it. It would also be at least a week before the avalanche risk became acceptable before even contemplating it. Even then we would have to wait long enough for someone else to be silly enough to set fresh tracks through it.
The evening outlook saw high clouds, some wind with snow still possible tomorrow or the next day.
Our plan now is to have another look around here tomorrow morning before heading back down to Hongde.
Our dinner, bed and breakfast at Manang Hotel and Restaurant cost us 141Rs.
Day 12: Sunday 29/12/1985 Manang – Hongde
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
After having some of our own porridge and a two egg omelet for breakfast we headed out for an early morning walk. The weather was still fine, thank goodness.
After sending our Porters the other way, we headed up towards Manang and beyond. There was no track past Manang to Pedri. Along the way we got shovelled on and saw lots of people, children to old women, out clearing roofs.
Manang 29/12/1985
We took a few photos and were struck by the illusion that the surrounding mountains didn’t look as big as there actually were, the peaks still being another 13,000’ above us.
What a bitch of a day’s walk. It probably took a little longer than yesterday – rest days work wonders. The sun felt really hot and the snow didn’t always support our weight. Very very hard work for what was supposed to be a two hour hike.
We ended up feeling dehydrated – needless to say our water bottles not being full hadn’t helped.
There was surprisingly little evidence of avalanches and we hoped that didn’t change tomorrow.
Got a couple more rooftop photos when we returned to Himali Hotel.
We noted a few clouds blowing over during the late afternoon and saw no other foreigners today, the climbing group from here having departed this morning.
Amazing that we haven’t got really sick yet – I couldn’t finish off tonights rice and curry. The plate was put straight on the floor and the leftovers were promptly finished off by the dog, with a goat finishing off another.
Day 13: Monday 30/12/1985 Hongde – Neu Bhratang
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Departed at 8:46am for Ongri (3322m). Arrived at Lower Pisang at 11:30am for a lunch of Tibetan bread and noodles. Lunchtime entertainment was provided by a six year old chasing a goat around the kitchen with a stick.
We had pretty good going to start with across the flats towards the hill, reaching Pisang in two and a half hours. Here we caught up with Nina, Mike and Dave who were heading off to climb Pisang. We devoured some Tibetan bread and noodles for lunch.
We got very tired during the afternoon as Neu Bhratang seemed to fail to get any closer, it eventually taking us five hours of really hard work, resulting in calf soreness. We crossed one smallish avalanche late in the afternoon.
The party that made the track though the fresh snow from Pisang to Neu Bratang had taken three days, pushing through what they could before returning to Pisang each evening!
Kitchen Roof – Lower Pisang 30/12/1985 (24mm, T20 auto)
With a little rearranging we managed to secure beds with six other people.
Day 14: Tuesday 31/12/1985 Neu Bhratang – Latermarang
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
We awoke very early to clear skies. The resident children were awake before sunrise making lots of noise. Porridge and two chapatis for breakfast. 91Rs
Off about 8:30am with the snow still firm underfoot making it a lot easier than yesterday. Finally we were not breaking through as much but encountered a lot of slipping as we approached Chamje.
Forrest near Neu Bratang 31/12/1985
Watched one very noisy icefall across the valley from our accommodation late in the day.
Day 15: Wednesday 1/1/1986 Latermarang – Chamje
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
The morning produced difficult slippery icy conditions. Fortunately the snow disappeared as we rounded the corner near Bagarachap. The rest of the day was spent walking on solid ground – luxury!
Lunch at Dharapani – Dal Bhat.
Sighted a large white faced monkey as it crashed out of some trees early on.
Spent the whole day walking with a headache, sore neck and lower back pain.
Day 16: Thursday 2/1/1986 Chamje – Bhulbhule
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Awoken early to begin the march out, enjoying porridge with Tibetan bread and jam for breakfast before leaving Chamje at 7:50am.
2/1/1986
We arrived at Bahundanda about 12:00pm for lunch, having sent Ram ahead to order lunch (Dal Bhat). Saw a really cute looking, bushy tailed, green coloured squirrel early this morning. Weather still cool and overcast, but out of the coats and into joggers today.
Day 17: Friday 3/1/1986 Bhulbhule
Awoke to the sounds of Peter vomiting out the bedroom window.
We had planned to complete the trip today, Peter said he felt better. So we had breakfast, packed, paid the bill and were ready to leave before Peter decided he couldn’t – so we didn’t.
Peter spent most of the day curled up in bed before being sick again in the early evening.
I felt OK but restricted my food intake, sat around and read until late.
Day 18: Saturday 4/1/1986 Bhulbhule – Bhote Odar – Dumre
Pokhara to Jomoson Trekking Map 1985
Diarrhoea again so skipped breakfast and started off slowly on the walk out.
We reached Besishar for lunch, sticking to biscuits and coke until bowels settle down.
4/1/1986
Only made it about half way to Bhote Odar before we managed to catch a large lime green truck (150Rs) that was just about to leave. This proved to be a much better ride to Dumre than that coming in, arriving just after sunset around 5:30pm.
At Dumre we waited ages at the bus depot for one heading to Pokhara without any luck. Ram managed to get us a ride in a private car for 30Rs, taking about ninety minutes and arriving at 10:00pm.
We stayed in a really smelly hotel in the city overnight, again we hadn’t seen another westerner all day.
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